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Fabrics for Cold Weather Suits?

carter

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,921
Location
Corsicana, TX
Wool Tweed fabrics come in varying weights and are period-appropriate as are flannels.

Equally important to a vintage look will be the style and cut as well as lining fabric and buttons and attention to those all-important details.
 

jcw122

New in Town
Messages
37
Location
PA, USA
carter said:
Wool Tweed fabrics come in varying weights and are period-appropriate as are flannels.

Equally important to a vintage look will be the style and cut as well as lining fabric and buttons and attention to those all-important details.

Doesn't look like that place carries Tweed for any fabrics, but they do have flannel.

As for the cut, they have options in further menus for whatever their standard cut is, and a "British Canvas" construction. From the description it sounded like older methods of putting together suits. Would I want this?

Apart from the image of the item, what do you mean by style? What should I be looking for there?
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,084
Location
London, UK
Looks like they might have some interesting stuff, though the photos aren't exactly great. This style:

boxconner.gif


looks like it might have the potential to be quite vintage looking, but it's hard to judge from that one bad photo. Some of the trosuers also look like they might be a nice vintage cut, but again it's hard to tell. The biggest difficulty I find with modern suits when looking for a vintage type cut is the trousers, and specifically the rise. Modern trousers have a tendency to being much shallower on the rise, especially if they are aimed at a younger, fashion-oriented crowd. That's the thing that would make me most wary of buying by mail if I wasn't certain that the seller got that. I can't recall who, but I do know that there are members on here who have bought from MCT and I think were reasonably pleased with the product, so maybe they can offer further help.
 

jcw122

New in Town
Messages
37
Location
PA, USA
Edward said:
Looks like they might have some interesting stuff, though the photos aren't exactly great. This style:

boxconner.gif


looks like it might have the potential to be quite vintage looking, but it's hard to judge from that one bad photo. Some of the trosuers also look like they might be a nice vintage cut, but again it's hard to tell. The biggest difficulty I find with modern suits when looking for a vintage type cut is the trousers, and specifically the rise. Modern trousers have a tendency to being much shallower on the rise, especially if they are aimed at a younger, fashion-oriented crowd. That's the thing that would make me most wary of buying by mail if I wasn't certain that the seller got that. I can't recall who, but I do know that there are members on here who have bought from MCT and I think were reasonably pleased with the product, so maybe they can offer further help.

What was the style number? The image doesn't work here, and all the file names for their pictures are the same (I dunno how, but they are).
 

carter

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,921
Location
Corsicana, TX
jcw122 said:
Doesn't look like that place carries Tweed for any fabrics, but they do have flannel.

As for the cut, they have options in further menus for whatever their standard cut is, and a "British Canvas" construction. From the description it sounded like older methods of putting together suits. Would I want this?

Apart from the image of the item, what do you mean by style? What should I be looking for there?

Read this thread.
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=3342

Bookster has tweed suits and great visuals.
http://www.tweed-jacket.com/SUITS PAGE/suits page.htm
 

Mr. Rover

One Too Many
Messages
1,875
Location
The Center of the Universe
I'd say almost anything in the 13 oz. wool or heavier category would make a nice fall/winter suit...that could a super 100/120 worsted, a flannel,etc. When I pick out a winter suit, I usually think, "Hmm...would this keep my legs warm?" since I usually wear an overcoat all winter, so that doesn't make as much of a difference.
 

Jerekson

One Too Many
Messages
1,620
Location
1935
Personally flannel gives me the willies, so I would suggest wool. I have a wool 40's suit that kept me very comfortable last winter.
 

MrBern

I'll Lock Up
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4,469
Location
DeleteStreet, REDACTCity, LockedState
jcw122 said:
Hi everyone,

I'm thinking about buying my first suit from mycustomtailor.com. They have an array of fabrics to use, but I have no idea what to have my suit made in. Here's a link: http://mycustomtailor.com/fabrics.php?styleID=9593 Which would be closest to what was worn in the 40s and appropriate for fall/winter weather? Thanks.

-Jon

Seems like a lot of the choices are year round and 3 season fabrics and even summer linen.
Are you looking for a heavier fabric for primarily the winter & fall?
Is this a suit for strictly the office or would you be wearing it for some outdoorsy action?

A lot of `40s winter suits were made of wools that are heavy by today's standards. 18oz or 22 oz wools. Im not clear if you have a choice of anything that sturdy on mycustomtailor.
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
MrBern said:
Hey, isnt Matt Deckard specializing in heavier weight vested suits?


True.

For heavier I'd say go for something 16 ounces or more. I've been scouting for those fabrics for my line and actually have a couple books of vintage bolts to source from with fabrics that are from before the numbers game of finer fibers and thinner fabrics that just don't seem to keep their creases as well.
 

donCarlos

Practically Family
Messages
566
Location
Prague, CZ
jcw122 said:
Damn I'm startin' to give up here on the idea of a 40's style suit...it seems that either it's going to be way too expensive for a college student like me, or if I try from an online place, it won't come out right. :eusa_doh:
And what about our dear magnoli clothiers? I don´t think the prices are too high. I´m college student as well and I´m really considering having at least one suit made... They look worth it.
 

Jerekson

One Too Many
Messages
1,620
Location
1935
ShoreRoadLady said:
Flannel can be (and usually is) made of wool, no?

I'm talking about the blanket-level stuff. Feeling that on my skin just drives me nuts.

On a similar note...I used to know a fella that was afraid of porcelain.
 

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