Examples of rubber soled dress shoes in the Golden Era

[GoldenEraFan]

From "Hollywood Hobbies" (1939)

Top Disney storyman Bill Peet

Random man, '40s?

 

[Tomasso]

Without seeing the uppers how do we know that the men in the top and middle photos
are wearing dress shoes?

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

LIFE magazine 1937
The issues are online in the LIFE archive.

 

[Isshinryu101]

exactly what do the soles on the wingtips look like? Neolyte soles were generally brushed smooth like traditional leather ones on dress shoes.

neither outfit on the men at the top inspires thoughts that dress shoes would be a sensible pairing.

even the pair on the man in the suit are a stretch to call "dress shoes".

 

[Two Types]

Number 5 on this page: http://www.worldofkays.org/website/1781

has rubber soles and heels. It's a black Oxford from 1947.

 

[Isshinryu101]

Number 5 on this page: http://www.worldofkays.org/website/1781

has rubber soles and heels. It's a black Oxford from 1947.

This is what I just posted. It is no revelation that rubber, neolyte and other materials were used for the soles of dress shoes. The question is whether the crepe-style sole or commando style sole was used (as OP suggests to start this thread). I have seen many vintage dress shoe soles made of alternate materials... but all of them were brushed smooth and looked the same as traditional leather ones.

 

[Isshinryu101]

also, shoe #5 is a traditional British style country shoe. Not really a dress shoe. Worn for hikes outdoors through fields and cobbled roads. Definitely not dress suiting attire.

Remember, what we consider a "dress shoe" today is not the same as it was 60+ years ago. Sneakers were rarely seen.

 

[Two Types]

Ish: which shoe are you referring to? As noted in my post, i was referring to the black Oxford (i.e. on the right hand page) which can hardly be described as "Worn for hikes outdoors through fields and cobbled roads." (the illustration at the top of the page - a man in the city - also suggests it is for city use rather than country). I think you are confusing it with the page of shoes for country wear.

N.B. I don't think the original post made specific reference to crepe or commando soles, it simply says "rubber soles".

 

[Isshinryu101]

Ish: which shoe are you referring to? As noted in my post, i was referring to the black Oxford (i.e. on the right hand page) which can hardly be described as "Worn for hikes outdoors through fields and cobbled roads." (the illustration at the top of the page - a man in the city - also suggests it is for city use rather than country). I think you are confusing it with the page of shoes for country wear.

N.B. I don't think the original post made specific reference to crepe or commando soles, it simply says "rubber soles".

look at the pics he used. What's the point in stating that shoemakers have used rubber as well as leather as shoe sole material? This isn't groundbreaking information. In this vein, we can have a thread dedicated to "all leather shoe interiors" in vintage shoes. We all know most shoemakers used canvas on interior linings and today top makers prefer leather. Doesn't speak at all on quality, styling or anything else except trends. There was a run where shoemakers experimented with different materials for soles and heels to achieve durability and less slip. Today leather is favored. Not really worthy of discussion, though.

 

[Isshinryu101]

and yes, I was looking at the other page.

 

[Two Types]

look at the pics he used. What's the point in stating that shoemakers have used rubber as well as leather as shoe sole material? This isn't groundbreaking information. In this vein, we can have a thread dedicated to "all leather shoe interiors" in vintage shoes. We all know most shoemakers used canvas on interior linings and today top makers prefer leather. Doesn't speak at all on quality, styling or anything else except trends. There was a run where shoemakers experimented with different materials for soles and heels to achieve durability and less slip. Today leather is favored. Not really worthy of discussion, though.

Why do you appear to be criticising my decision to post a link to rubber soled dress shoes in a thread entitled 'Examples of rubber soled dress shoes in the Golden Era.'? Someone made an observation, someone else follows up with links - that's what we are here for. Please remember that, whilst you may have a deep knowledge of vintage shoes (and almost certainly know more than most of us), there are plenty of people on this forum who are still eager to learn.

And, if rubber was such a common thing in the period, why are their so few examples of rubber soles on the more formal shoes in the Kays catalogues that I was referencing?

Furthermore, if this is a subject you consider unworthy of discussion, why have you bothered to post in this thread?

P.S. I think having a thread on 'all leather shoe interiors' would actually be a good thing. If you were to put such a thread together - explaining the changing trends and the reasons for the changes - I would certainly read it.

 

[Isshinryu101]

sometimes I just think Fl is a bit sensitive. There was absolutely no criticism of you posting your links. I have no idea we u read criticism. The link showed exactly what the thread was about. Vintage "dress shoes" with rubber shoes.

My point was that it is this thread itself that is puzzling. The material of the soles is no indicator at all of anything related to vintage style. Through time, shoemakers tried out rubber soles on a model or two of their dressier styles. This is simply because they wanted to see if the public was interested in this. Each and every time, they found out that, NO, dress shoes don't sell well with rubber soles. Even today, leather soles are much preferred for dressier shoes. Rubber in itself is not dressy. So, the makers tried, it failed, and here we are. Not much else to add to the story.

Combination heels is something that actually DID catch on. THAT would be interesting for a thread. All leather soles at beginning. All rubber heels gained traction in the 30's & 40's. In 50's v-cleat was tried to make heels last longer, but dangeros, so that eventually died out. Somewhere along the way, the dressier aspect of leather heels was melded with rubber edge for traction and longevity. Today, MOST good quality dress shoes have combo heels. It took a long time for the idea to get very popular (it was used sparatically thru the decades), but it is still in use.

All leather shoe interiors is, again, no indication of anything related to style, era, or quality. Today, most top makers use leather because the impression is that leather is higher quality than canvas. US makers almost exclusively used canvas on even their best shoes because they felt it was cooler inside the hot and better at dealing with foot sweat (sweaty leather STINKS!). The shoes with all leather look EXACTLY the same as the ones with canvas. What's the fun of posting that?

Why do you appear to be criticising my decision to post a link to rubber soled dress shoes in a thread entitled 'Examples of rubber soled dress shoes in the Golden Era.'? Someone made an observation, someone else follows up with links - that's what we are here for. Please remember that, whilst you may have a deep knowledge of vintage shoes (and almost certainly know more than most of us), there are plenty of people on this forum who are still eager to learn.

And, if rubber was such a common thing in the period, why are their so few examples of rubber soles on the more formal shoes in the Kays catalogues that I was referencing?

Furthermore, if this is a subject you consider unworthy of discussion, why have you bothered to post in this thread?

P.S. I think having a thread on 'all leather shoe interiors' would actually be a good thing. If you were to put such a thread together - explaining the changing trends and the reasons for the changes - I would certainly read it.

 

[Two Types]

Your reference to canvas interiors interests me: my personal experience is that leather interiors are superior simply because leather lasts longer before wearing out (i'm comparing my experience of different shoes made in the same factory).

Personally, I prefer rubber soles, favouring 'golfer soles' over commando soles or smooth rubber. My preference is two-fold: it rains a lot here and leather soles are treacherous in wet weather (try walking two miles to work on rain and leaf covered pavements in London in November and you'll soon get the idea) also I cycle a lot and leather soles slip on the pedals.

On the point of whether there is a need for a thread on rubber soles, I disagree with your assessment. The subject interests me simply because I have regularly seen rubber soles being dismissed as being 'not correct period style'. As you have rightly pointed out, rubber soles have been widely used at different times with varying degrees of success/popularity. Thus, a thread showing rubber soles worn in the period under discussion helps to undermine the fallacy that rubber soles weren't used. I'm always in favour of any thread that broadens readers understanding of period fashions. I am sure that was the intention of the original poster.

Anyway, the thread has proved its worth since you have referred to trends from certain periods that I wasn't aware of (v cleats in the 1950s etc). I'm always happy to learn something new.

 

[Isshinryu101]

you are a gentleman and always a pleasure to discuss things with, my friend!

About interiors, I'm not sold on the concept of leather being better for interiors. In my experience (several thousand pairs of vintage shoes and boots), I have NEVER seen a pair of vintage shoes where the canvas interior has worn out. A few did have some discoloration far inside, but not a single pair where the foot wore thru. On the other hand, I have seen quite a few pairs of vintage shoes where the leather interior has dried out badly and cracked or even had pieces of leather falling out. As for comfort, I see no difference. The leather does tend to be hotter in summer months, where the canvas seems to somewhat disperse the heat. I think it's all about impression and marketing.

As for rubber soles, I see it the same way. No real difference in terms of quality, but just a point of opinion of the wearer. Rubber will not slip as badly as leather. That said, there is something about a leather sole and All-Leather heel I just love. I have my cobbler create an all-leather heel with a similar nail pattern to the original when the heels wear out. A bit ADD, but what the hell!

Your reference to canvas interiors interests me: my personal experience is that leather interiors are superior simply because leather lasts longer before wearing out (i'm comparing my experience of different shoes made in the same factory).

Personally, I prefer rubber soles, favouring 'golfer soles' over commando soles or smooth rubber. My preference is two-fold: it rains a lot here and leather soles are treacherous in wet weather (try walking two miles to work on rain and leaf covered pavements in London in November and you'll soon get the idea) also I cycle a lot and leather soles slip on the pedals.

On the point of whether there is a need for a thread on rubber soles, I disagree with your assessment. The subject interests me simply because I have regularly seen rubber soles being dismissed as being 'not correct period style'. As you have rightly pointed out, rubber soles have been widely used at different times with varying degrees of success/popularity. Thus, a thread showing rubber soles worn in the period under discussion helps to undermine the fallacy that rubber soles weren't used. I'm always in favour of any thread that broadens readers understanding of period fashions. I am sure that was the intention of the original poster.

Anyway, the thread has proved its worth since you have referred to trends from certain periods that I wasn't aware of (v cleats in the 1950s etc). I'm always happy to learn something new.

 

[Two Types]

Cheers, nice to be back on common ground.

Of course, my point about canvas wearing out comes from modern shoes rather than vintage and, as such, the canvas used may be much lower strength than on vintage shoes.

On a secondary point related to canvas not wearing out, are you referring to your own shoes because, to be honest, if you are rotating hundreds of pairs of shoes, there won't be much chance for them to wear out? (or are you referring to vintage shoes you see for sale that already have some wear?)

Have you posted pics of your all-leather soles and heels? I so, I don't recall them and would be interested in seeing them. You are right, it is an indulgence, but - as you say - what the hell!

P.S. as the man who knows footwear, do you know any modern maker of this style of sandals?:

(ideally with a properly welted sole)

 

[GoldenEraFan]

Wow, did not expect this thread to go this route. My intention to post this thread was that it is known that full rubber, combination soles are nothing new, but photographic examples from before the '60s are not that common and also the fact that is no other thread on this topic. I'm glad everything got patched up though! Indeed the response to this thread has given great new information!