Eastman - a new direction?

[Stand By]

Pre-distressed/ripped jeans. Rubber "mud" splatter. In a world of "instant vintage", where does the rapid distressing/color-losing Horween CXL leather fit in? Or Eastman's Time-worn finish?

I would prefer none of it, myself. The veterans got the cool look we admire solely by authentically wearing the jacket - a lot, in all weathers and seasons. Nothing more - nothing less. I don't think there's ANY substitute for that finish other than doing the same. It's as simple as that.

 

[Worf]

That's an interesting niche that Gary's pursuing - in tandem with the military gear.
Mind you, when one considers how popular the Sons Of Anarchy series has become in popular culture - and I noticed last year that the Toronto chapter of the Hells Angels are now making t-shirts and selling them to the public from a shop (!), so it seems to me that the masses have a (fleeting?) desire for that M/C Club look too - irregardless of the demand by the true bikers out there who wear the gear with sincerity and practicality and a sense of its heritage - just as we do around here with our flying jackets and gear. So I think it's just marketing for the masses and meeting demand with supply... Good luck to him.

I agree with this assessment. I never saw the fascination of joining the herd and playing "dress along" except when I was in the Service and it was required. People dressing up like wannabe bikers, wannabe soldiers, wannabe workin' men it's mind bogglin'. In the '70's there was a time when people were wannabe Disco dancers, then wannabe cowboys (yech I hated that fad) and finally wannabe truckers compelte with CB radio antenna stickin' out their butt holes. It never ends.

Worf

 

[HDRnR]

Totally agree, I'm one of the few that likes shiny new leather because after actually wearing it for years you get the parts that get a patina vs. the parts that are still relatively shiny which creates a great contrast. You can't get that with something pre distressed or something where 100% of the surface is pre worn.

I would prefer none of it, myself. The veterans got the cool look we admire solely by authentically wearing the jacket - a lot, in all weathers and seasons. I don't think there's ANY substitute for that finish other than doing the same. It's as simple as that.

 

[Benny Holiday]

I agree with this assessment. I never saw the fascination of joining the herd and playing "dress along" except when I was in the Service and it was required. People dressing up like wannabe bikers, wannabe soldiers, wannabe workin' men it's mind bogglin'. In the '70's there was a time when people were wannabe Disco dancers, then wannabe cowboys (yech I hated that fad) and finally wannabe truckers compelte with CB radio antenna stickin' out their butt holes. It never ends.

Worf

lol lol lol Hilariously put Worf and very true!

 

[pipvh]

I have to say that none of the new Eastman stuff looks particularly 'biker' (and nor do the models). Boots, jeans, workshirts and a Perfecto-style jacket? Just basic clothing, albeit done very nicely in that Japanese way.

I can't understand why someone would think brutal criminals are cool in any way, but I guess when you're a middle class 20-something living in NYC wearing lumberjack jackets and cordovan Alden boots and getting paid $75k a year to run a social media network for a multinational corporation then you're a safe distance from reality and pretty much anything goes.

When I actually was a middle class 20-something living in NYC the Angels were my next-door neighbours for a few months. I could have called them a lot of things, but not 'cool.' Definitely not.

 

[Sloan1874]

"These Eastman boots are killin' me, but man, at six hundred bucks, what're ya gonna do?" "Wanna see my Freewheelers cap? Just 150 bucks!" "That's so coool!"

 

[tropicalbob]

pipvh, on East 6th Street. Charming fellas.

 

[mihai]

Indeed. I think it's safe to say nothing we're doing is particularly original or rebellious. It's just clothing.

It's not uncommon for people to pay very high prices for what are essentially luxury items when the perception of status is in question.
Within this subculture of workwear/denim/vintage there are status brands people are paying way too much money for.
Basically we're no different from women who pay thousands of dollars for designer handbags..

Yes but for some of vintage enthusiast is a bit different. Lots of us do informed purchases. That is looking for the real qualities of the item (materials, fit, build quality). Bearing a certain famous label won't be sufficient for me to buy that.

I personally can't imagine anyone actually wanting to buy a jacket with rubber mud on it, unless for a Steve McQueen museum I suppose. However, I'm really happy aero, lost worlds, lewis leathers etc still make their jackets as I don't like synthetic materials and love natural materials like leather, cotton and I'm clearly not alone in this. Natural materials wear better, gain a personality and stay nice, getting better with age.

What I have an aversion to is when this perfectly good, brand new hard wearing gear is sold all distressed and factory worn out, like a pair of silly fashion jeans. Then it becomes middle class dress up time IMO.

Ture, eBay has loads of LVC distressed jackets from high-end makers(prob Aero) and repro jeans trashed. Indeed it's such cliche to see middle class in those artificially distressed jeans.

Or the "denim" that was "faded" white on the backs of the thighs, but to me it just looked like the wearer had sat down on a freshly painted park bench. Yeah, Real cool.

Looks funny. Even funnier is to pay large prices for high-end jeans trashed like this. They are everywhere at discounted prices and no one wants them.

One municipal employee I knew described them as "up to their necks in guns and drugs" which is about right. They should all be in jail and hopefully will be someday. I can't understand why someone would think brutal criminals are cool in any way, but I guess when you're a middle class 20-something living in NYC wearing lumberjack jackets and cordovan Alden boots and getting paid $75k a year to run a social media network for a multinational corporation then you're a safe distance from reality and pretty much anything goes.

Up next from our product development department (i.e. marketing): Replicas of the jackets worn by famous serial murderers! And we're also working a line of jackets we call "Born Free" which will replicate the look worn by mercenaries in Africa in the 1970s!

I agree with this assessment. I never saw the fascination of joining the herd and playing "dress along" except when I was in the Service and it was required. People dressing up like wannabe bikers, wannabe soldiers, wannabe workin' men it's mind bogglin'. In the '70's there was a time when people were wannabe Disco dancers, then wannabe cowboys (yech I hated that fad) and finally wannabe truckers compelte with CB radio antenna stickin' out their butt holes. It never ends.

Worf

These are the corporate guys, nice well paid job, easy life. Everything looks cool from the safety distance from the reality. They need to show some attitude that's all. So they dress up. Today Bruce Willis type, tomorrow Lion Heart, then 70s african terorist. Then the rebel outlaw driver they'll fetch some $$$ for a nasty muscle-car. This thing with the cars is also in Europe. White collars getting a loan to buy a nasty AMG(hear the tractor roar of the biturbo), M or something furious.

I do admit I dress up military but for practical purposes : better fit to my frame, affordability and practical aspects

 

[pipvh]

East 3rd, between 1st and 2nd. Angels next door, with their permanently lit brazier and expressionless 'guard.'

Across the street lived Quentin Crisp. Now there was a proper style icon!

 

[Sloan1874]

"This outfit? Mr Freedom, darling, top-to-toe."

 

[thor]

From Eastman product expansion to Hell's Angels to Quentin Crisp; now that's what I call thread deviation (no pun intended). Deviation (as used here) is a term in marine navigation where a magnetic compass deviates from an intended true course heading due to magnetic interference.
TFL is always entertaining!

 

[Edward]

I would prefer none of it, myself. The veterans got the cool look we admire solely by authentically wearing the jacket - a lot, in all weathers and seasons. Nothing more - nothing less. I don't think there's ANY substitute for that finish other than doing the same. It's as simple as that.

The same debate has raged for years in electric guitar circles. Some guys get unbelievably bent out of shape over someone buying a pre-distressed "relic" guitar.... then they turn around and insist on old-school nitro-finishes for the specific reason that they show wear faster than a modern polyurethane gloss.... lol I'm a great proponent of the philosophy of "Just wear the damn thing", but then I suppose I look at it from a similar angle as you seem to: I want a jacket that looks like what I could have bought new back in the Forties (or whenver) - I'm not aiming to look like I'm wearing a jacket which is seventy years old. I think that's the difference with the market for those who collect repro A2s, say, because they really want an original but can't afford it. They want it to look like the original does now (assuming mint condition or near it, obviously), whereas I want the look of back then.

I agree with this assessment. I never saw the fascination of joining the herd and playing "dress along" except when I was in the Service and it was required. People dressing up like wannabe bikers, wannabe soldiers, wannabe workin' men it's mind bogglin'. In the '70's there was a time when people were wannabe Disco dancers, then wannabe cowboys (yech I hated that fad) and finally wannabe truckers compelte with CB radio antenna stickin' out their butt holes. It never ends.

Worf

So what you're saying is you're not a real big fan of the Village People?

I have to say that none of the new Eastman stuff looks particularly 'biker' (and nor do the models). Boots, jeans, workshirts and a Perfecto-style jacket? Just basic clothing, albeit done very nicely in that Japanese way.

I agree... for me, a Perfecto and the likes don't scream "biker" the way they do for some.... but then my formative reference points for that stuff was much more music based, the Ramones, punk rock, rockabilly.... not bike culture. I'm not big on the idea that any of that stuff is taboo because I'm not a biker any more than I'd avoid an A2 because I've never flown a plane... [huh]

When I actually was a middle class 20-something living in NYC the Angels were my next-door neighbours for a few months. I could have called them a lot of things, but not 'cool.' Definitely not.

I'd have stuck to "Sir" for the most part. Not people I'd cross.

View attachment 8993

"These Eastman boots are killin' me, but man, at six hundred bucks, what're ya gonna do?" "Wanna see my Freewheelers cap? Just 150 bucks!" "That's so coool!"

lol

View attachment 9037

"This outfit? Mr Freedom, darling, top-to-toe."

I always wanted Brian Sewell to play him in a biopic. I wodner if he can act? John Hurt played him at one point, if memory serves. A true original. I'll forgive him for inspiring an aawful song by Sting.... he didn't do it on purpose.

 

[rocketeer]

View attachment 9037

"This outfit? Mr Freedom, darling, top-to-toe."

I have an autographed copy of The Naked Civil Servant someplace.

As for Hells Angels, as a 1970s biker I chatted to one guy just about hassle from police, riding in colours and bikes in general. Not a bad bloke to talk to, just dont ask the wrong questions or pry into their business I thought even as a teenager. Then again, these were basically what we called 'Greasers' back then, long hair dirty jeans and leaky British bikes. Unlike the muscle bound shaven headed types you see these days.

 

[Dr H]

I always wanted Brian Sewell to play him in a biopic. I wodner if he can act?

Isn't everything Brian Sewell does an act? No...surely that opinionated nonsense that he spouts isn't serious :eeek:

I'll forgive him for inspiring an aawful song by Sting.... he didn't do it on purpose.

Ah, but it contains a superb middle 8 on the electric upright bass...

 

[Sloan1874]

I have an autographed copy of The Naked Civil Servant someplace.

As for Hells Angels, as a 1970s biker I chatted to one guy just about hassle from police, riding in colours and bikes in general. Not a bad bloke to talk to, just dont ask the wrong questions or pry into their business I thought even as a teenager. Then again, these were basically what we called 'Greasers' back then, long hair dirty jeans and leaky British bikes. Unlike the muscle bound shaven headed types you see these days.

I think the British Angels are/were a very different proposition from the US ones. The Stones made the mistake of hiring the US Angels for Altamont believing that they'd be just the same as the UK ones they used at Hyde Park. Hunter S Thompson started out with a crush on them too and learned a hard lesson at the end:

 

[Capesofwrath]

The British ones I had some cause to have contact with in the seventies were very heavy. A lot of them lived together in a large fortified house and were dealing in drugs and stolen bikes. Not just your average biker.

 

[pipvh]

I'd have stuck to "Sir" for the most part. Not people I'd cross.

My biggest fear was that I'd be reeling home at some ungodly hour and knock over their bikes, Pee Wee Herman stylee...

Back to Eastman: I think you're right. That style is a music-based thing for me as well, and perhaps part of the general post-war British hankering for an imagined America.

 

[Edward]

Isn't everything Brian Sewell does an act? No...surely that opinionated nonsense that he spouts isn't serious :eeek:

He's very self-aware and I think does often self-parody - he's no Peter Hitchins, that's for sure. Still, I think a lot of it is for real...

My biggest fear was that I'd be reeling home at some ungodly hour and knock over their bikes, Pee Wee Herman stylee...

Back to Eastman: I think you're right. That style is a music-based thing for me as well, and perhaps part of the general post-war British hankering for an imagined America.

TwoTypes noted in another thread a few months ago that in Britan that sort of thing is very often clustered around the areas where there were big US airfields, or at least clusters of US service personnel during and for a while after the War. Seems a realistic notion to me (not to mention significantly healthier than someof the WW2 fetishisation I've seen).

 

[kojax]

i looked at there website they need to fix it the live vido stiops half way threw

 

[HDRnR]

I met the prez of NYC Hell's Angels at my cousins funeral, was a class act and very respectful.