Drycleaning Vintage Suits?

[Quetzal]

Is it safe to send a vintage suit to the drycleaners, especially if it is a 1940s and older model, or will is become ruined? In particular, I'm asking about vintage/antique formalwear; faille lapels are apparently shredded when sent to the cleaners (I was VERY lucky that my 1930s tuxedo was not ruined after I sent it to the cleaners when I found it at a flea market), but about antique satin lapels?

If the cleaners are not the best, how would one proceed to clean a vintage suit?

-Quetzal

 

[Fastuni]

Every single of my 1920-40's suits, tuxedos and tailcoats has been at the drycleaners and I never had a problem.

Grosgrain or satin lapels - nothing bad happened. I have two cleaners: a "regular" cheaper store where I get price off for quantity and a somewhat more expensive "family" store, which exists for 25 years.

I wouldn't worry - regular suits will be just fine. If you are concerned because of silky lapels... go to a reputable expert cleaner and not the cheapest around.

No guarantee though... I have no idea how the establishments are in your area.

 

[Rudie]

Since you are in the US, try http://www.ravefabricare.com/. They specialize in bespoke and museum pieces.

 

[vintagewise]

Howza 'bout handwashing? Suits, that is. Is there a particular detergent anyone recommends?

I've recently acquired a closet lot of mens' suits...the two gems in the lot are a late 1930's brown wool SB 2-piece w/ white pinstripe and a blue DB that looks every bit a 1940's suit but has a 1951 dated tailor's tag. Those two I've been able to satisfyingly freshen up with a clothes brush and my garment steamer...which was a relief because I don't have a decent dry cleaner here for my vintage and I dare not try cleaning something so rare, at least on my first attempt at handwashing a men's suit (I've had plenty success at cleaning ladies vintage garments but Men's vintage is a fairly new foray for me).

The suit I'd like to try cleaning is a 1960's suit by Curlee Clothes-- the fabric looks to me like a 1950's atomic fleck, but it has those skinny 60's lapels -- it only has a skeleton lining and no padded shoulders or the like, so I'm pretty sure it will clean up OK. Should I do an Oxyclean soak, handwash with Woolite...anyone have a good recommendation? and thanks in advance ♥

 

[Fastuni]

Handwash/wet clean only if it is seriously grubby, crusted with dust & dirt and has severe stains.
For everything else, a dry cleaner will be the better option. Oxyclean as far as I know, is rather for cotton fabrics... woolite would be the better option for wool.
Take care... there are cleaning agents that are for cotton only and will destroy wool fibers (certain cleaning salts).

 

[Guttersnipe]

For hand washing suits, Woolite is definitely preferable to Oxyclean, unless the suit is linen. However, if you haven't hand washed a suit before, proceed with extreme caution. Suit jackets are comprised of multiple layers, all of which are made from different materials that respond differently to heat, moisture and cleaning agents. Like Fastuni says, unless something is seriously dirty -- obvious grim, super gnarly odors, years of caked in dust -- dry cleaning is always the safer option.

To Quetzal's question, 99% of the time vintage items handle dry cleaning just fine, especially when you're talking about men's clothing. Some of the more exotic cloths that vintage women's clothing are made of don't handle dry cleaning as well. However, such items are generally older and too fragile to wear anymore at this point. While over dry cleaning can be a concern, the main thing to remember is that nothing makes vintage clothing deteriorate faster than being dirty. So when in doubt it's better to have something dry cleaned.

The best advise for picking a dry cleaner to handle rare vintage pieces is to find the oldest, establishment in your area -- usually in an affluent neighborhood -- that specializes in wedding gowns, couture / design items, etc.

 

[resortes805]

Also, with tighly woven woolens (like gabardine, or serge) request a light pressing, as they will gain a stark sheen if pressed too hot and too often.

 

[Mathematicus]

Anyone has ever tried the (relatively) new technique called "wet cleaning" (click)? It seems a kind of washing using water but without ruining that garments we usually take to dry-clean. If the whole thing is working, the advantages would obviously be the elimination of all organic odours, water/perspiration stains and obviously a major grade of hygiene.
I've never tried (for now) but I wonder if someone has experience with this stuff, especially on vintage suits and overcoats.

 

[Rudie]

Yes, I've done that. Most cleaners don't offer the service, though. And the critical part about it is that they need to have staff who know how to use a press and iron to give the jackets their shape back. Bad ironing can pretty much ruin a suit. It's good to get out those nasty odors.

 

[LuvMyMan]

As someone that is married to what I call, the "King of Stain Removal" I can state a few things about fabric care.

First, no matter what anyone uses to clean fabric, allowing clothing to really soak for a long period of time helps bleed out any stains that may be in the fabric (when hand washing). Also Oxyclean is nothing more then Borax powder. 20 Mule Team Borax is far cheaper than Oxyclean price wise. I would stay away from using it on anything vintage. It is too harsh and will only break down fibers. Any cold water wash liquid is the only suggestive product to use on anything vintage and allowing the item you are hand washing to soak for a long time and then rinsing it several times to remove all the washing liquid solutions is a must. If any liquid cleaner is left in the fabric, you are going to see that fabric rot.

Questions about trusting a dry cleaner, ask them a lot of questions before you drop anything off. In my household, our biggest concern with a dry cleaner is honesty about what they do with the clothing after you drop it off...as in taking it! There have been more than one event of leaving something off at the dry cleaners and when you go to pick it up, they tell you it is already gone! I am sure just as you value your items that are vintage and hard to come by, you would feel as badly as we do when someone at a dry cleaners will hood wink you out of your clothing.

After hand washing any item, what do you do next? Hanging up items to dry. Smooth fabric out by hand as it is drying and do not use anything other than to hang the item up. Avoid a dryer. When the item is totally dry, then get a clothe to use between your iron and the clothing item. If you are careful and plan out how to iron any item, you can normally get it back to looking like it should look in no time at all, including any silk or wool suits. I learned how to do all this from Daniel, and I can tell you if I can do this, anyone can! LOL Hope this helps. Also for any stain.....NEVER buzz saw a stain with a brush, including a tooth brush on a stain. If you lightly tap a stain with a brush, just tapping for some time with some liquid cleaner on the stain and then letting it rinse off and doing that a few times over before you let the clothing item soak, you will be far better off. Brushing anything back and forth is going to wear the material and can leave a lighter worn mark behind....NO buzz sawing material....not good for the fabric.

 

[Mathematicus]

Yes, I've done that. Most cleaners don't offer the service, though. And the critical part about it is that they need to have staff who know how to use a press and iron to give the jackets their shape back. Bad ironing can pretty much ruin a suit. It's good to get out those nasty odors.

Thank you, Rudie. I think there are some "wet cleaners" in my city, though not so near to me. I'm a bit sick of dry-cleaning, mostly because it doesn't remove odours and clothes seems like... they were before washing.

After hand washing any item, what do you do next? Hanging up items to dry. Smooth fabric out by hand as it is drying and do not use anything other than to hang the item up. Avoid a dryer. When the item is totally dry, then get a clothe to use between your iron and the clothing item. If you are careful and plan out how to iron any item, you can normally get it back to looking like it should look in no time at all, including any silk or wool suits. I learned how to do all this from Daniel, and I can tell you if I can do this, anyone can! LOL Hope this helps.

This is very interesting; I've always wondered if you could succesfully hand-wash a wool suit. May I ask you what kind of iron do you use after it's dry? Just for knowledge, I don't I'll ever try! I'm good ironing shirts, pants and sweates but a jacket...

 

[LuvMyMan]

Thank you, Rudie. I think there are some "wet cleaners" in my city, though not so near to me. I'm a bit sick of dry-cleaning, mostly because it doesn't remove odours and clothes seems like... they were before washing.


This is very interesting; I've always wondered if you could succesfully hand-wash a wool suit. May I ask you what kind of iron do you use after it's dry? Just for knowledge, I don't I'll ever try! I'm good ironing shirts, pants and sweates but a jacket...

Hello, I use a normal steam iron BUT use a clean white clothe between the clothing item and the iron. More work but safer!

 

[Vampyre Master]

I recently took a Harris Tweed suit to be dry cleaned its a 1948 tailor made in North Wales, the cleaner removed one button check with solvent...no probs sewed button back on using matching thread suit was cleaned and has come out perfect looks brand new in a nice way!! plus dry cleaning kills all moth eggs
VM