Dress shirts ... just dress shirts

[MrBern]

I have that RL shirt as well, Feraud.
It has come in handy when trying out some vintage detachable collars.

Took me a while to realize this RL detachable club collar is also REVERSABLE, so you can wear the side that contrasts the shirt or the side that matches it.

A Ralph Lauren detachable version.

 

[habberdasher]

There is no model name but the packaging is marked Easy Traveler if this helps.

Thanks!

 

[Highlander]

Feraud, I love that CLUB ROOM Shirt with the white rounded collar. My girlfriend tells me that I buy the SAME SHIRT over and over, sort of true, I love blue/white striped shirts with white collars (and cuffs too). Anyway, I am out looking for a 16 1/2 35 in that shirt today. I don't have any with the rounded collar.

 

[habberdasher]

I can't find it on their site or anywhere online, I guess I'll have to find it at Macy's.

 

[Feraud]

Try Macys. I found mine discounted there.

 

[MisterGrey]

So what's the proper fit of a collar, anyway? I feel uncomfortable if there's any space between my neck and the fabric of the collar, but I've been told I tend to favor my clothes slightly tight, so it may just be that I feel out of sorts if it's not hugging my throat. I've heard the "two fingers in the collar" rule of thumb, but this tends to leave a gap between the collar and my neck if I move my head in any way. Is there supposed to be some "give" to allow for mobility, or should it be form-fitting?

 

[habberdasher]

Whatever is best for you, if you like a tight fit its better for you since you don't like open space between the neck and collar.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Do collarbars/ needels require a special collar or do you just pierce them through the fabric? I would be anxious to do so because my favourite spearpoint collar shirts shouldn`t be damaged.

Is a collarclip like this a good option?
http://www.vintageshirt.co.uk/show_item.php?itemtitle=Collar clips&itemcat=accessories&aspect=l

This is new but does it look vintage? I bought it yesterday for 2€.

I think Tab Collars resemble Collarbars a bit. But...

The tab collar. Snap or button the tab under the tie. You see alot of these on 60's preppy students.

I don´t want to look like a sixties student. Just your own opinion towards this style or is it common knowledge? I have also seen Tap Collars that are also Club Collars...still suitable für 20s, 30s style?

PS: Thanks for all the tips. I really love this site:eusa_clap

 

[habberdasher]

I think Tab Collars resemble Collarbars a bit. But...

I don´t want to look like a sixties student. Just your own opinion towards this style or is it common knowledge? I have also seen Tap Collars that are also Club Collars...still suitable für 20s, 30s style?

PS: Thanks for all the tips. I really love this site:eusa_clap

No! The 60s preppy look is great! If you don't like the title, think Mad Men's younger set. A little less conservative, skinny button-downs and tab-collars. Bass loafers and all. But of course tab collars were around before too!

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Thanks for the answer. But I don´t know the TV show (Mad Man)....and I just don't like any part of the sixties style like narrow lapels, slim trousers etc...so why then wear 60s dress shirts? [huh]

What about the needles and clips?

 

[habberdasher]

Thanks for the answer. But I don´t know the TV show (Mad Man)....and I just don't like any part of the sixties style like narrow lapels, slim trousers etc...so why then wear 60s dress shirts? [huh]

What about the needles and clips?

If you don't like any sixties style, then I don't think you'd like Mad Men. Mind you it does focus on the more conservative side (not beatniks and hippies, but Madison Avenue Admen) in the early sixties. I think you can get tab collared shirts with longer points; a bit more classic and not the band-like tab of the sixties that only wraps around the knot which is usually tiny.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

When searching the german Ebay I stumbled across this two tab collar shirts. What Do you think? Both brands are typical business wear...nothing vintage.
The second one has a bit more pointed collar than the usal they sell in the stores I think...

Daniel Hechter

Eterna

 

[Nick D]

I guess this is the right place to post this question. I recently bought a detachable collar shirt, a Cotella/Van Heusen, I'd say 40s or early 50s, with a loop on the back from the bottom of the collar band to the bottom of the yoke. I would expect to see this on a tux shirt to keep the bow in place, but this isn't a tux shirt. It's grey with white and green stripes. I would expect it to be worn with a fold-over collar, so why the loop?

 

[habberdasher]

When searching the german Ebay I stumbled across this two tab collar shirts. What Do you think? Both brands are typical business wear...nothing vintage.
The second one has a bit more pointed collar than the usal they sell in the stores I think...

Daniel Hechter

Eterna

Both are really great! The golf collar is my favorite and is definitely not 60s but 20s-30s! The second one is the same, with a pointier collar that's 30s-40s! I'd get both if I could. The first one is even better because of the contrasting white-blue; very vintage!

 

[habberdasher]

I guess this is the right place to post this question. I recently bought a detachable collar shirt, a Cotella/Van Heusen, I'd say 40s or early 50s, with a loop on the back from the bottom of the collar band to the bottom of the yoke. I would expect to see this on a tux shirt to keep the bow in place, but this isn't a tux shirt. It's grey with white and green stripes. I would expect it to be worn with a fold-over collar, so why the loop?

I searched "tuxedo shirt loop" and found this:

I know the shirt you're describing is not a tuxedo shirt but as the one that is shown the loop holds a marcella waistcoat and tie, so maybe the loop holds the tie, or the style is just carried over. The link is a really great white tie reference. Also, read this from that link:

"It is a little known fact today that when a bow tie is worn with a wing collar shirt its band should never be seen above the jacket’s collar. Consequently, a finely tailored formal shirt will have a loop stitched immediately below the collar for the specific purpose of keeping the bow tie’s band - and the backless waistcoat’s neck strap - discreetly tucked away under the jacket. Less diligent manufacturers will omit the loop to save costs but this can be easily remedied by a trip to the tailor."

 

[Nick D]

Here's a pic of the back of the shirt. Unless I were to wear a wing collar, I can't use the loop. It may be a holdover, I don't know.

Here's some more details of the shirt. It's a tunic shirt, by the way.

The neckband and tag.

This is on both cuff seams.

The cuffs are constructed like some vintage detachable collars. Instead of fabric sewn and turned right-side-out, the edges are turned in and bound with twill tape.

 

[Cobden]

I have a couple of Van Heusen shirts, all of which have the loop on - I think it's so one can wear it with a wing collar if one wishes.

The type of cuff shewn above is classic Van Heusen construction - both their cuffs and collars are made this way. They're very common in the UK, as it seems they were the brand used as demob shirts at the end of WWII; they tend to be of the tunic type but with the massive overlap

 

[habberdasher]

Nick D, I think it's if you want to wear a wing collar. I've also seen that feature on many modern shirts, so it may be a carryover.

 

[Cufflinks]

I have never been able to get the hang of actually applying a detachable collar. By the time I am done, it looks a royal mess.

 

[Nick D]

I have never been able to get the hang of actually applying a detachable collar. By the time I am done, it looks a royal mess.

It takes practice, but it's become second nature to me now. I find it's making sure the tie is snug against the fold before buttoning up the front. What particular problems do you find with them?