Double Helix Works?

[sshack]

Hugging the Curve, stock size 44, black semi aniline horsehide

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The measurements on the websit is based on the pulled measuring method.


What I think about this jacket:

1) Leather - is very thick, as thick as my heavyweight CXL FQHH, so at least 3.5oz or 1.5mm. But is as soft as the 3oz 1.2mm RMC Shinki. Feels waxy to the hand. I've never had a horsehide like this. I was expecting same as the other Tokyo brands but this stands out on its own. The hide is really nice.

Compared to the RMC Steinbeck half belt, steinbeck on top, hugging on bottom


2) Construction - can't complain, typical Japanese high end finishing. Same type of lining construction as RMC. The Hugging has an inside pocket, the RMC don't.

3) Fit - very, very similar to the RMC again. A bit longer in the front, made for untucked shirts. The forearm has a taper and can feel tight. The RMC fit pics here:

All the McCoys

I haven't really paid that much attention to RMC as a jacket maker, as I thought they mostly did military aviator reproductions, and I'm more of a motorcycle and car coat kind of guy, and they're very expensive, even used. I recently noticed a gorgeous two-tone MC jacket on yahoo japan, but too...

www.thefedoralounge.com

4) Price - the best part of this jacket. MSRP ¥173,800. With the two discounts code running everyweek on Rakuten, this jacket came in at ¥160,110, that's about £900, or $1,200. And as far as I can see, all the bigger sizes are the same prices, and they go up to 48, fits aquaman. The only other brand that consistently have bigger sizes is Y'2, all the rest of the Japanese brands don't usually stock anything over 42 in Japan.

One major negative, is the zipper. I almost broke the Hookless just by trying on. Some of them can be very finicky. I would say it's time for all repros to switch to ykk. It's fun to have a different zip, until it breaks, and replacement cost 150+, on top of an already expensive jacket.

That's all I've got. If you are shopping in this budget range or come across this jacket on the used market, it's worth to take a look.

How is the quality of the wool liner? Is it thick or thin? Scratchy? Does it make the jacket too warm to be worn year round? Would you prefer cotton liner? Thanks for any info!!!

 

[ton312]

I’m not telling anyone that he must follow fashion trends haha. I’m just saying that actually the fashion trends are the opposite of what many people on TFL assume.

Hold on bud. You saying my quick reference guide is wrong???

 

[Ulysse]

They certainly don't stack up to Freewheelers of course, but they seem decent enough. Quality seems good enough and the patterns aren't as awful as some of the new Japanese brands like Fountainhead or Fine Creek.

They're below Freewheelers and Rainbow Country tier as well as RMC tier, but above the other two I mentioned. I'd put them in Y2 tier- solid Japanese craftsmanship and good but not great patterns

I visited your website that compared leather jacket brands. You've done a great job, but you could update it and create a top 15 please, that would be really great

 

[Canuck Panda]

How is the quality of the wool liner? Is it thick or thin? Scratchy? Does it make the jacket too warm to be worn year round? Would you prefer cotton liner? Thanks for any info!!!

The wool feels like Loccharon "Tweed". So like the Strome weight Aero uses but with a brushed surface that feels like flannel. All wool can feel scratchy because of skin reaction to lanolin, but with a button shirt it doesn't feel scratchy at all for me.

You're in California right? Cotton will be better for you for sure.

Another thing is the leather feel. I learned a new word the other day, "gummy", that's what the leather feels like in the hands. Some leather feels waxy like touching a candle, some feels oily like touching butter, the DH leather feels gummy like touching a gummy bear, and soft like it, very different feel than the more rigid regular waxy Shinki.

The one on the left I know for sure is the Loccharon Tweed, and the right one (DH) feels very similar to it just different tweed design,

 

[Jiantle]

Just received my Double Helix Hugging the Curve in Seal Brown Teacore HH bought pre-owned+unworn off of mercari japan and I must say I'm really impressed. Not sure when this was made because it differs from the ones I'm currently seeing online (navy blue wool tweed lining similar to FW Mulholland, diamond pull on chest pocket instead of loop and ball chain)

Build quality and the pattern is excellent. I really like the fit apart from the sleeves - upper arm is nice and roomy but it gets very trim starting from the elbows. Bending my arms when the jacket is new is a challenge. Hope it breaks in nicely, then it will definitely be a keeper.

@Canuck Panda put it accurately when he said that the leather feels "gummy". Surface feels a little sticky, as if it's been over-conditioned, but is soft and pliable compared to new Shinki HH.

The seal brown color is really dark, looks black in low light.

For those interested, this size 42 has the following measurements:
P2P: 22.25
Sleeves: 25
shoulders 18.25
Back: 23.5 (2 inch front drop)
Hem: 21

Can't wait to break this bad boy in!

 

[Jiantle]

Some quick fit pics.

 

[Aloysius]

Some quick fit pics.
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Cool CHP!

 

[Canuck Panda]

Some quick fit pics.
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Looks great on you, nice pick up.

The forearm is a bit tight for sure, mine gave me some arm hickeys before the elbows stretched out towards the back to accomodate the fit. It's all good. These jackets are really well made and were very good value.

Go easy on the zipper. Hookless needs the gentle touch.

 

[Jiantle]

Looks great on you, nice pick up.

The forearm is a bit tight for sure, mine gave me some arm hickeys before the elbows stretched out towards the back to accomodate the fit. It's all good.

That's good to know. My Field Leathers Chicago also gave me arm hickeys before stretching out.

Go easy on the zipper. Hookless needs the gentle touch

Will do! Don't have much experience with the Hookless zippers but the one on this jacket feels less robust than on the FW Mulholland. Has slightly smaller teeth as well. Gonna be performing surgery every time I zip it up and down for sure.

 

[58panheadfan]

That's good to know. My Field Leathers Chicago also gave me arm hickeys before stretching out.

Will do! Don't have much experience with the Hookless zippers but the one on this jacket feels less robust than on the FW Mulholland. Has slightly smaller teeth as well. Gonna be performing surgery every time I zip it up and down for sure.

You can bend the leather outwards along the zipper and move/knead it a few times. This gives the zipper more freedom of movement so it can move better. I did this with both of my DH jackets. Since then, the zippers have been running smoothly.

 

[Togs]

Frisco, 1.8 mm orange core horsehide. The leather's thick and supple, waxy to the touch, with variation in color, grain and texture. I'm interested to see how it will evolve, as it's full aniline with no pigment, and the orange core pops more than a more widely-seen brown core.

All in, a happy DH owner.

 

[Bfd70]

Frisco, 1.8 mm orange core horsehide. The leather's thick and supple, waxy to the touch, with variation in color, grain and texture. I'm interested to see how it will evolve, as it's full aniline with no pigment, and the orange core pops more than a more widely-seen brown core.

All in, a happy DH owner.

That’s a jacket that should be a one and done signature piece

 

[Coldsnap]

I was in Japan a few weeks ago and waiting for my Sugar Cane Okinawas to get hemmed to length and came across this Double Helix Cossack that I picked up. It's a makeup for a leather shop in the area, it has a corduroy lining and drill cotton sleeves. It's true to size, but I can fit a flannel underneath it, so I'm looking forward to some good layer opportunities. It's a super heavy horsehide that's super stuff, it's going to need a lot of wear!

 

[Togs]

That’s a jacket that should be a one and done signature piece

Thank you, it's a keeper for sure; however, I'm not ready to be done

 

[sougey]

Would love to see a flag waver caramel jacket zipped up I want to buy one but I'm not sure if it's similar to a oil tanned cowhide which is what I'm looking for

 

[Momein]

Would love to see a flag waver caramel jacket zipped up I want to buy one but I'm not sure if it's similar to a oil tanned cowhide which is what I'm looking for

Maybe @GuyMontag can help you out.

 

[sougey]

@GuyMontag any fit pics would be awesome could I see it zipped up so I can figure out how I'd look in it if you got any pics of that

 

[newtojackets]

Hold on bud. You saying my quick reference guide is wrong???
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The quote is hilarious. Everyone in the heritage scene who wants to 'own less, but better' ends up with like 20 different boots and jackets