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Does Aero make the most `Period-Correct' B-3 Jacket?

John Lever

One Too Many
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1,819
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Southern England
Yes, horse hide trim did come out about 1990-91 simply because customers in the USA were asking for it (and had no knowledge of goat and steer use on AAF jackets), but the finish on the sheepskin was polyacrylate lacquer. The old ELC color B-3 promo page from 1989 and before states this, I do believe (I'd have to hunt for one of these), and we took in our first ELC B-3's in 1989, which certainly appeared to have had the finish. I do not know what you have/had that makes you think it was not this finish, but if you still have the coat I'd love to see what you are describing.

It is possible that ELC had the finish refined in the timeframe you reference, so maybe there is some noticeable difference from these early years, or maybe the finish just changed from a particular consignment. Now I'm curious ...
The late Andrew Tinnion the owner of the Fenland Tannery told me personally that the relationship ended when there was a dispute over flaking top coat causing customers to ask to return jackets back to Eastman. The tannery refused to replace the batch of skins so the relationship ended. Some of these flakey jackets come up for sale occasionally.
 

John Lever

One Too Many
Messages
1,819
Location
Southern England
Heres the zip ! It's
_20140919_113338.JPG
an Aero but not that Aero. This Aero used to make zips and knitting needles decades ago.
Note the surface texture of the sheepskin...all wrinkled after years of age. Looks just like an original.
 

HPA Rep

Vendor
Messages
855
Location
New Jersey
The late Andrew Tinnion the owner of the Fenland Tannery told me personally that the relationship ended when there was a dispute over flaking top coat causing customers to ask to return jackets back to Eastman. The tannery refused to replace the batch of skins so the relationship ended. Some of these flakey jackets come up for sale occasionally.

I recall those jackets, John. I believe the tannery change was around 1992, but all I can really recall is having some issues with flaking in the early 1990's.
 

HPA Rep

Vendor
Messages
855
Location
New Jersey
Anyone know why they can still get merino for the S.F.A.D. but not for the other jackets?
Anyone know why they can still get merino for the S.F.A.D. but not for the other jackets?

That would have to be posed to Gary. I don't know if it's about not be able to get the merino or that they chose not to. Maybe their source is not able to reliably supply the quantity they need for all other styles, maybe it's about cost, or maybe Gary doesn't want all jackets too be made from it since that surely would not be historically accurate.
 
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HPA Rep

Vendor
Messages
855
Location
New Jersey
Heres the zip ! It's View attachment 185968 an Aero but not that Aero. This Aero used to make zips and knitting needles decades ago.
Note the surface texture of the sheepskin...all wrinkled after years of age. Looks just like an original.

Super B-3, John! I recall these zippers. If I am seeing correctly, this has a wartime-style bell puller. If so, then either the puller is genuine vintage and added on or the jacket dates to between 1991-94. Also, I can see that the thread is not the stuff I supply, so this points to a jacket made before 1994. Gary would know best, but his use of brass wartime-style bell pullers took place after 1990 and before the summer of 1994.
 

John Lever

One Too Many
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1,819
Location
Southern England
Super B-3, John! I recall these zippers. If I am seeing correctly, this has a wartime-style bell puller. If so, then either the puller is genuine vintage and added on or the jacket dates to between 1991-94. Also, I can see that the thread is not the stuff I supply, so this points to a jacket made before 1994. Gary would know best, but his use of brass wartime-style bell pullers took place after 1990 and before the summer of 1994.
Gary told me late 1980's before they had available Talon track. The track is an Aero
 

Juanito

One of the Regulars
Messages
247
Location
Oregon
Ahhhh, ok. Thanks for the reply. It was likely just a shift in batches and nothing deliberate since ELC did not change sheepskin tanneries in the timeframe we're talking about, though the leather finishers they used may have changed then. I do recall some merino skins that John Lever loves and depicts here from this timeframe having a glossier finish than what was used earlier, so this may also explain what you saw as a difference.
What a coincidence...look what I just ran across stuffed in an old "Fighter Aces of the U.S.A" Book:

 

HPA Rep

Vendor
Messages
855
Location
New Jersey
This jacket was made before Gary started using Talon zip tracks. The puller is a Talon but the track is brass. Gary told me the date of manufacturer is late 1980's.
What a coincidence...look what I just ran across stuffed in an old "Fighter Aces of the U.S.A" Book:


Hokey smoke, Bullwinkle! That's a treasure. Thanks for sharing. I have sales records going back to the first purchase, so the store copy to this must be here. Totally forgot that the mahogany color didn't change to horse hide at the same time.

That B-3 in nice shape would sell today for more than you paid, I'd think.
 

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