Do you own a Tux?

[F16WarBird]

I have an Oscar de la Renta SB black tux.

A shawl collar SB dinner jacket.

A black Argyll jacket (Highland dress)

and a Prince Charlie Jacket with a waistcoat (Highland dress)

 

[Marc Chevalier]

The (mythical) lady in the boudoir will no doubt smile at your willingness to thumb your nose at convention while still maintaining the outward appearance of the opposite.

Mythical? Quel dommage.

.

 

[Tomasso]

About braces.

It's not unusual to occasionally flash some brace when wearing a SB dinner jacket with cummerbund, particularly when the jacket is unbuttoned.

 

[Vintage Betty]

Using a black or white tabbed braces set with some whimsy is exactly the place that it is acceptable to show individuality in black tie. No one should see them, and it's much better than one of those awful bow tie/cummerbund sets people often wear. The (mythical) lady in the boudoir will no doubt smile at your willingness to thumb your nose at convention while still maintaining the outward appearance of the opposite.

Unless you are disrobing in the dark...

In which case you will (probably) be keeping your individuality to yourself. lol

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Unless you are disrobing in the dark...

In the dark? Quel dommage.

.

 

[Mojave Jack]

What are the wing collar shirts that would have been common or acceptable in the 1930s? I was watching De-Lovely the other night, and they all seemed to have on plain front wing collar shirts. It also looked like plain front shirts in English Patient. All I can seem to find are pleated front and pique bib front. The only wing collar, plain front shirts I can find are microfiber, and I can't tell if it is a bib front or not.

 

[Vintage Betty]

I'm sure there are others who will respond who are....

Much more knowledgeable than I, but in my research I found a large variety of men's 1930's wingtip shirts being used.

If requested, I might be able to find pictures to back up this claim.

Vintage Betty

 

[Vintage Betty]

I haven't had much luck with grosgrain accessories on eBay yet. Bummer.
I'm afraid a waistcoat might make the outfit a bit too warm for this climate; it's very heavy wool.

<snip>QUOTE]

WildCelt - I believe this was mentioned, but have you considered making your own grosgrain accessories? Many times it can be cheaper than purchasing vintage.

Regarding the waistcoat, have you considered a backless waistcoat? Oftentimes, these provide the look without the bulk and additional heat.

VB

 

[Anthony Jordan]

Nothing wrong about it - the term "dinner suit" has been around since at least the 1930s and is perfectly legitimate when referring to matching jacket and trousers.

It is true that I have found one source using the term (Army and Navy Stores catalogue 1939), albeit interchangeably with "dinner jacket suit" but I still wouldn't choose to use it here in the UK, where it is not common parlance.

re: shirts, what Mojave Jack may have seen could be either pique shirts starched and very well pressed so that they appear smooth, or shirts with plain linen fronts. The latter are fairly unusual but are still made in a few places. Either would be worn with a detachable wing collar. Here's a couple of images of one of mine:

 

[WildCelt]

WildCelt - I believe this was mentioned, but have you considered making your own grosgrain accessories? Many times it can be cheaper than purchasing vintage.

Yes, I mentioned it. My problem is I'm having trouble with the fabric. I'd like to have silk rather than polyester or nylon to better match the lapels, but I can't find anything wider than a 1" ribbon. I'd need at least 2.5", preferably 3". I have heard that a rayon/cotton blend is very silk-like, though. Does anyone know if that's the case?

 

[CharlestonBows]

All I can seem to find are pleated front and pique bib front. The only wing collar, plain front shirts I can find are microfiber, and I can't tell if it is a bib front or not.

They do make a true plain front, non-bib, formal shirt now (and not only in microfiber, lol), but I've not seen it with a wing collar (have only seen bib construction wings with plain fronts - see below). We've carried a few in the shop, and it's catching on tremendously thanks to Mr. Craig in 'Casino Royale.'

A bit of a digression, but with black tie, you seemingly have two equally acceptable choices. 1) you can go with the above, a la 'Brideshead Revisited', or 2) you can get a turndown collar with pleated front (as originally designed). If you go with a wing collar, don't get wimpy, make it like a good drink - stiff.

Don't go with option 3) wing collar with a pleated front. It's a strange hybrid of the two, and its kind of out-of-whack to me - makes you look like the wait staff.

 

[Tony in Tarzana]

The trouble with stiff collars for me is, I have a thick neck. They don't seem to go together, at least the ones I've tried.

And a laydown collar just looks wrong with white tie and tails.

 

[Midnight Blue]

What are the wing collar shirts that would have been common or acceptable in the 1930s? I was watching De-Lovely the other night, and they all seemed to have on plain front wing collar shirts. It also looked like plain front shirts in English Patient. All I can seem to find are pleated front and pique bib front. The only wing collar, plain front shirts I can find are microfiber, and I can't tell if it is a bib front or not.

You can get the classic "boiled shirt" (and detachable wing collars) at the Vintage Shirt Company www.vintageshirt.co.uk

 

[Vintage Betty]

You can get the classic "boiled shirt" (and detachable wing collars) at the Vintage Shirt Company www.vintageshirt.co.uk

WOW! What killer Braces! Run fellas, run over there to see!!

Vintage Betty

 

[Tony in Tarzana]

Hey, they even have my size! Too bad the exchange rate is so unfavourable for us Yanks.

 

[AlanC]

'But I don't want to look like a pirate!'

fftopic:

Just missed the puffy shirt and accoutrements for Talk Like a Pirate Day:

 

[CharlestonBows]

The trouble with stiff collars for me is, I have a thick neck. They don't seem to go together, at least the ones I've tried.

And a laydown collar just looks wrong with white tie and tails.

Well, you don't want to play the turndown with the tails -- turndown is for black tie only.

With the stiffer collars for you, try getting a collar with a slightly shorter band height. That way it won't be so tall as to cut or choke you. You might opt for a half size larger that you normally would go with, as well.

 

[Mike K.]

Any thoughts on this one?
I know, the tail coat is virtually extinct but I think it is just too classy to give up completely. This one is being offered for sale at a local store. It's 100% wool, and my size. The only things I would change would be:
1. Change the waist coat from white to black.
2. Get rid of the pleated shirt in favor of a stiff, plain-front shirt.

Does the lapel notch seem high, or could it just be the way the ensemble was hung for photographing?

 

[AlanC]

^Mike, I don't believe that a black waistcoat would be correct. A white waistcoat should go with white tie (ie, tails). You are correct about the shirt.

 

[Mike K.]

You're absolutely right AlanC! White waist coat is correct.
:eusa_doh: :eusa_doh: :eusa_doh: