Do you own a Tux?

[boushi_mania]

I had one, back in my college days. I was in the choir, and that was the men's uniform. It was, of course, polyester, designed more for durability than a night out on the town. The lapels were notched, and the shirt had one of those one-inch wing collars that everyone dislikes so much, but it was still fairly classic-looking overall -- especially compared to what some of the other schools' singers had to wear. Unfortunately, I "outgrew" it and passed it on to an incoming freshman.

Actually, even if I had it now, the thing would be too big for me by an un-alterable margin, and I'd much rather have something made of actual wool and silk anyway. I'll probably end up fishing something off eBay for my wedding reception in Japan, but I'm concentrating on morning-dress first.

But as a side-note, are warm-weather (white/ivory) dinner jackets ever made in 100% wool? From searching a bit on eBay, even the vintage ones are at least 50% polyester or other artificial fiber, but I don't know if that's because they're ex-hire, or what.

 

[AntonAAK]

I have a black DB for the winter, bought from a charity shop and a quite heavy wool and grosgrain lapel facings. Not sure when it dates from. I bought a pair of new barathea evening trousers that match it perfectly, with braiding rather than ribbon down the sides.

For the summer I have an ivory DB (peak lapel, not shawl) that I wear with the same trousers.

Just wish there were more opportunities to wear them...

 

[Charlie Huang]

But as a side-note, are warm-weather (white/ivory) dinner jackets ever made in 100% wool? From searching a bit on eBay, even the vintage ones are at least 50% polyester or other artificial fiber, but I don't know if that's because they're ex-hire, or what.

They should be made of wool but yes, most of the ones I've seen on the net are poly-wool blend which is unacceptable for us in the know. The only wool one I have seen is an Oliver Brown one (I think it is wool anyways for £300!) but they stupidly call it 'white tie' which made me cringe:

http://www.oliverbrown.org.uk/white-tie-3506-0.html

However, I have noticed that they now sell rather good SBPL DJs on their site:

http://www.oliverbrown.org.uk/sb-dinner-suit-peak-lapel-5168-0.html

 

[Feraud]

The only wool one I have seen is an Oliver Brown one (I think it is wool anyways for £300!) but they stupidly call it 'white tie' which made me cringe:

Descriptions can get worse...much worse.
How about a dinner jacket described as "Shawl collar boyfriend blazer"?
Don't believe me? Read on..
http://us.topshop.com/webapp/wcs/st...618&langId=-1&categoryId=&parent_category_rn=
To see the jacket in action on one of New York's too many "designers" pick up this week's Time Out New York.

 

[Charlie Huang]

Descriptions can get worse...much worse.
How about a dinner jacket described as "Shawl collar boyfriend blazer"?
Don't believe me? Read on..
http://us.topshop.com/webapp/wcs/st...618&langId=-1&categoryId=&parent_category_rn=
To see the jacket in action on one of New York's too many "designers" pick up this week's Time Out New York.

Hang on, isn't that womenswear?

 

[avedwards]

They should be made of wool but yes, most of the ones I've seen on the net are poly-wool blend which is unacceptable for us in the know. The only wool one I have seen is an Oliver Brown one (I think it is wool anyways for £300!) but they stupidly call it 'white tie' which made me cringe:

http://www.oliverbrown.org.uk/white-tie-3506-0.html

However, I have noticed that they now sell rather good SBPL DJs on their site:

http://www.oliverbrown.org.uk/sb-dinner-suit-peak-lapel-5168-0.html

Wouldn't it make more sense for white dinner jackets to be made from cotton or linen? That would make them a lot better in warm weather, which is why the came about in the first place.

 

[Feraud]

Hang on, isn't that womenswear?

Yes and I've seen a fellow wearing one. [huh]

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Wouldn't it make more sense for white dinner jackets to be made from cotton or linen? That would make them a lot better in warm weather, which is why the came about in the first place.

At least in the U.S., white dinner jackets (which were actually bone or cream before the 1960s) tended to be made of worsted barathea, wool or rayon gabardine, 'Palm Beach Cloth' (cotton/mohair) or a close imitation, shantung or tussah silk, and linen or linen/silk. It wasn't until the '60s that nylon polyester blends began to really appear in dinner jackets.


.

 

[John in Covina]

Wouldn't cotton or linen wrinkle more?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Wouldn't cotton or linen wrinkle more?

Depends. The mohair in 'Palm Beach Cloth' resists wrinkling, thus counteracting the cotton.


Linen (and silk) do wrinkle, but they were still considered viable fabrics for white dinner jackets.


.

 

[Charlie Huang]

Oh dear. I know I shouldn't have but I saw a SBPL DJ at a vintage fair today that is almost exactly the same as the one I posted previously save for a few minor details and couldn't resist so I snapped it up for £20! The condition is better than the other one (the grosgrain silk is much more pronounced). It fits me and I think the sleeves are the correct length. The buttons are horn which I'll keep them that way so as to contrast with my other one with the grosgrain covered buttons.

I also got a evening waistcoat (needs a bit of repairing) for £8. Plain wool barathea.

They are at the dry cleaners but I will post photos of my finds next week when I get them back.

 

[Bugsy]

Oh dear. I know I shouldn't have but I saw a SBPL DJ at a vintage fair today that is almost exactly the same as the one I posted previously save for a few minor details and couldn't resist so I snapped it up for £20! The condition is better than the other one (the grosgrain silk is much more pronounced). It fits me and I think the sleeves are the correct length. The buttons are horn which I'll keep them that way so as to contrast with my other one with the grosgrain covered buttons.

I also got a evening waistcoat (needs a bit of repairing) for £8. Plain wool barathea.

They are at the dry cleaners but I will post photos of my finds next week when I get them back.

I always look forward to your photos. Congratulations on the purchases!!

 

[Charlie Huang]

I was looking for full evening dress trousers as I really need those but there were none. I think that has to be saved for a London jaunt.

 

[JRivera]

Not very vintage but here they are

Left to Right
Dior SB PL
Abboud SB SL
Bill Blass DB PL
Brooks Brothers PL tails
Abboud SB NL
Ralph Lauren SB PL black velvet w grosgrain facings

I bought the Abboud SB NL for a wedding years ago before I knew anything about proper black tie and white tie, I will probably sell it on ebay as I have no use for a NL since I have much better options now.

I may get rid of the Abboud SB SL also as I just got a midnight blue one for $12.50 on ebay. The Abboud is nice and it fits well but it has two buttons and I am trying to go back in time a little with most of my style. It came with plastic buttons! Men’s Warehouse put new ones on the front and sleeves for $10. Of course they only put three on the sleeves after I asked for four, but they fixed it while I waited so no big deal.

All the rest came for Value Village, Goodwill and ebay. The Dior retails for about $3000, I picked it up at VV for $59, The BB tails I got on ebay for $85, retails for $2500. Both might as well be brand new. The Dior is very slim in fit, very “Casino Royale”. It make me look pretty damn good if I do say so myself!

I think the top hat is from Belgium (hard to read) 1890 supposedly. The Homburg is a Knox. I have a beaver Homburg coming also, that from the pictures looks really rich.

I just ordered shirts from vintage shirts in the UK. In the past I have been using Nordstroms ones which I have never liked. The best deal recently I got was on a Ralph Lauren turn down collar, pleated front shirt with studs for $25 on ebay. It’s pretty nice and will probably become my black tie standard. I also got a really good looking Italian made pique fabric turn down collar shirt that will also for black tie.

For topcoats I only have a normal black cashmere full length coat with a white silk scarf. I hope to find a good deal on a Chesterfield some day. I did win an Inverness Cloak recently and am waiting for it to arrive from Japan. I hope it fits as it will be awesome with the top hat and tails and a nice cane. (Sword cane of course!)

I’ve had all my black tie stuff for a few years but the white tie is new to me which has led me to a lot of reading and forums like this one (though I had visited this one before after reading some threads on AR15.com) The study has led me to want to make my black tie stuff much, more formal and correct. The “proper” wear looks WAY better once you see it.

For shoes I have some ok military ones (not the super thick soled ones) and some rental type from Goodwill for $5. Both are good in the dark and for running around town, and look fine with black tie.

Since I have gotten so many killer deals on stuff I did recently spend some money on myself and bought some very nice Italian opera pumps and the Lauren velvet dinner suit. (The bad guy in Casino Royale was wearing something like it during the poker game and I thought it was just too evil! Not very classic but very cool) I bought both on ebay for very good prices and used live search buy it now and got a 25% refund. I also got a white wool dinner jacket (SB SL) with silk facings, it looks from the pictures to have ugly buttons but I bought some mother of pearl ones from ebay and will redo it.

My goal this year is to wear black tie at least once a month, and any to find any reason possible to wear white tie.

Amazing! Nice collection.

 

[Adcurium]

Tux Purchase

This thread was started in 2007? And here is my response years later...

I wear a tux about three times per month for various Freemason events, meetings, parties, etc. I priced them around town and on the internet and found my way into a Tuxedo specialty shop. While they could have up-sold me, the owner suggested I buy one that they otherwise rent out for proms and weddings. Bottom line is that I walked out of the place down $125 (rather than $500) and still looking like a million bucks.

 

[Mav]

I wear a tux about three times per month for various Freemason events, meetings, parties, etc.

Same here- I'd have no need for it otherwise. Shawl lapel jacket with black "formal" vest for misc. Masonic events, once to twice a month; white tie and tailcoat for formal Lodge meetings once a month. I went the barely used rental route for the tailcoat, jacket is somewhat better quality.

 

[rlandrews3rd]

I, too, checked with Jos A Banks and got a nice SB shawl collar tux. I have 2 pair of pants, and 2 wingtip collar shirts. I also have a very nice vintage jade green smoking jacket that I have pulled out on occasion. And the tie must be self-tie, as there is nothing cooler than untying the tie at the end of a nice evening and lounging around with a cocktail. As a new Master Mason I have yet to see a formal event at my lodge but I have heard they have them on occasion. Most of our formal events have been ballroom-dance related.

 

[Adcurium]

Rlandrews... congrats, brother!
Most of our events are simply jacket and tie but the line/chair officers are nearly always required to wear tuxedos. So between our regular meetings, office visitations to other lodges, etc. I find myself in the penguin suit pretty often.

Welcome to the craft.

 

[rlandrews3rd]

Thank you, brother. I asked and found that we do not have any formal events, and very few events in which the brothers are encouraged to wear suits. The officers are supposed to wear coats and ties to stated meetings and suits to bigger events such as installations. All are encouraged to wear suits to those but not all do so.

 

[Charlie74]

I wear my tuxedo 1 - 2 times a year. Maybe more if the situation warrants it. I have several different shirts and also vests for a change from the cumberbund