Different Suit Fabrics

[Undertow]

I've looked over the volumes of threads regarding suit fabric but I couldn't find much to answer my questions. I would like some comments, suggestions and wisdom on various fabric types and qualities from your experience. I know wool is probably the standard here and I have no qualms with that. But much like my hat thread (http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=19880) I'm not quite interested in the highest/best quality of one single fabric, I want ideas on all fabrics. I realize polyester is cheap, and often feels and looks cheap, and I realize linen is good in the summer but can wrinkle. However, what are some pros to buying an inexpensive polyester suit, what are some disadvantages to owning a linen suit in the summer?

So to start discussion (and for you wonderful loungers to educate me thoroughly!) what are the pros/cons to suit/jacket fabrics like polyester, silk, cashmere, worsted wool, rayon, linen, cotton, etc. and all the various blends of these (e.g. 60% Poly, 30%wool, 10%silk).

Your help is MUCH appreciated!

 

[Feraud]

I will take a crack at the linen.

Linen is a lightweight material for warmer temperatures. It wrinkes easily but that is part of its charm. Linen is not expensive and available during the summer months (NYC perspective) in many retail stores.

The only disadvantage to linen in the summer is color. Light colors easily pick up stains.

 

[Dagwood]

Here is a textile guide brought to you by the fine gentlemen at Holland & Sherry.

Haven't tried it out, but Jos A. Bank supposedly has a "Wrinkle-Resistant Linen Cuffed Pants."

Brooks Brothers also has a new product called "Brooks Cool" which is described as follows: "an innovative fabric composition and special construction for an ultra-lightweight, wrinkle-resistant suit. Wool/polyester/Lycra® spandex."

I hope this helps and gives you some ideas.

 

[Feraud]

Jos A. Bank [/URL]supposedly has a "Wrinkle-Resistant Linen Cuffed Pants."

They have taken the charm out of linen!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

it may be against the rules (is it?) but i would suggest a trek over to London Lounge, where they have excellent critiques of fabrics. Those guys really know their stuff.

bk

 

[Dagwood]

it may be against the rules (is it?) but i would suggest a trek over to London Lounge, where they have excellent critiques of fabrics. Those guys really know their stuff.

No argument there, B.K. Here is a link to the "Cloth Club."

 

[Undertow]

No argument there, B.K. Here is a link to the "Cloth Club."

I checked out your link (as well as the one in your previous post) and neither was clear enough to provide the information I'm seeking.

The London Lounge is interesting but it's like trying to find a needle in a haystack. I'm at work most of the day so I'm 'technically' not supposed to be in here - i.e. can't browse various archives all day.

The textile guide was interesting and I'm actually still browsing it, but most of the information there is stuff I could find on Wiki.

I'm not trying to offend you, thank you very much for the links, I'm simply looking for sagely advice; hand-me-down wisdom from some of you gents that know a thing or two.

Or advice on stains like Feraud mentioned regarding linen. Although it seems obvious to me now, it hadn't occured to me until just then. I'm also very interested in the blends; how they hold up, their pros and cons, etc.

 

[Tomasso]

Here's another link that may help.




Giving a man a fish, you feed him for a day. Teach him to fish, you feed him for a lifetime.

 

[Marty M.]

Here, here. Three cheers for wrinkles.

They have taken the charm out of linen!

I couldn't agree with you more. Linen is like a pocket squaire, it has it's own personality. It's own flair. The same linen suit can look different on identical twins. Let's hear it for Linen. And let's hear it for wrinkles.
Marty Mathis

 

[Matt Deckard]

Something that was popular in the 50's and the 60's was mohair. Mohair is another kind of wool, usually very fluffy though when made the way it was for suits it had a stiff linen like texture. You sometimes see it with metalic stripes woven into the fabric.

Palm Beach in the 30's made fabrics which were a blend of Linen rayon, sometimes. Rayon cotton, and well they blended all over the place and the materials of their 30's summer suits were super tough.

Today you can find some nice cotton linen blend materials which look great for suits. I myself like the old fashioned cream color of plain linen.

Polyester being the miracle fabric that it is didn't last well on it's own as it amazingly made you hotter in the heat and colder in the cold-- miracle.

 

[Undertow]

So would you say a high blend poly/low blend wool suit would be a good investement? Or would you guys consider that "cheap" or not worth the money?

I know Jones of New York tends to do some poly blends and I've seen a few suits on the bay listed like this. I've also seen quite a few suits with a poly blend around town and I'm wondering if I should be more mindful of these low priced "bargains".

 

[Feraud]

So would you say a high blend poly/low blend wool suit would be a good investement? Or would you guys consider that "cheap" or not worth the money?

I know Jones of New York tends to do some poly blends and I've seen a few suits on the bay listed like this. I've also seen quite a few suits with a poly blend around town and I'm wondering if I should be more mindful of these low priced "bargains".

You can easily skip the poly. Many brands carry 100% wool at affordable prices. Low cost does not necessarily mean low quality.

I was recently at a Marshall's store. Aside from purchasing for myself a sharp double breasted linen suit they had a nice Sean John peaked lapel suit for around 150. This was on sale at Macy's for 3-400 dollars.

 

[mister7]

The biggest drawback to polyester as a suit material is its lack of breathability. This quality makes it feel far less comfortable than natural fibers that can absorb and release moisture. The plus side is...no wrinkles! If you want to buy a blended material it would be better if the synthetic fibers make up the minority of the blend. I have some shirts made by Kenneth Cole that are (as I recall) about 80% cotton and 20% coolmax. Coolmax is a specially shaped polyester fiber. They are very comfortable and also quite wrinkle resistant. A much more common blend is about 60/40 of cotton and polyester, and I find these far less comfortable. My skin is very sensitive and I find that the less breathable my clothes are the more skin problems I have. Hope this is the kind of input you are after.

MS

 

[David Bresch]

The problem with your request is that there is no clear answer. Polyester and polyester blends would be nasty in the summer heat, though since I have never owned such a garment I cannot say for sure. Linen is not any more prone to stains than anything else, and is available in all sorts of colors. It does wrinkle, which is why if you can, you should get the heaviest linen you can find, usually termed "Irish Linen" though this comes in several weights.

Unfortunately, linen is in fact very expensive and linen suits really have to be custom made. On the plus side, I cannot think of any more useful items in my wardrobe than my three Irish linen suits, which I had made bespoke.