Details and Options

[Orgetorix]

notice that the above trousers all have an extra belt loop near the fastening to hold the belt more securely in place. three of them are 1930s, but the top brown pair may be 40s or even 50s. this is geeky i know, but does anyone have any idea if these mysterious extra belt-loops are a reliable form of dating a pair of trousers ? do you have a pair from the 50s or later ?

I have a Hart Schaffner Marx suit that has the extra loop on the trousers, and I'm pretty sure it isn't any older than the 1980s.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Do any 40's 6 button Double-breasted suits have a one button closure?

Believe it or not, the answer is yes. However, it was very, very rare. I've only seen two '40s double-breasted 6-button jackets that had a one-button closure. Actually, Wild Root has seen them too, though he may not remember.


** Wild Root, do you remember a mustard-colored DB suit that Peter Loggins bought from Beauregard (and Beauregard bought from the Melrose Aardvark's )? And do you remember a very strange dark grey tweedy jacket that Ben McGinty found (with mutton shoulders and notched lapels)?


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[Happy Stroller]

Actually, Prince George, the Duke of Kent, is credited with the introduction of what looks like a 6x1 DB jacket in the late 1920s.

At the risk of committing some more historical errors, I believe he sat on the British throne as George VI in 1936, succeeding his brother the Duke of Windsor who succeeded their father, George V, in 1936. The Duke of Windsor reigned as Edward VIII, but was forced to abdicate by the British Prime Minister. So 1936 is known in British history as the Year of the Three Kings.

 

[Happy Stroller]

I have one four button/one to use DB and as far as button style goes, that's my favorite. It's pretty much like style 110 in the ad. I also have one 8 button/all to use DB. The gorge is of course extremely high and as it is solid green it comes off as a bit militaristic. I don't know when the 8 button was introduced - I'm thinking late 60s, and maybe it's the shirt and tie I'm wearing with it, but whenever I wear it, I think it all looks very Felix Unger.

Regards,

Senator Jack

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Are all buttons of your 8-button DB jacket all buttonable at the same time, or only up to 4 at a time?

Does anyone know whether 6-button military jackets are 6x6?

 

[manton]

At the risk of committing some more historical errors, I believe he sat on the British throne as George VI in 1936, succeeding his brother the Duke of Windsor who succeeded their father, George V, in 1936. The Duke of Windsor reigned as Edward VIII, but was forced to abdicate by the British Prime Minister. So 1936 is known in British history as the Year of the Three Kings.

No, Edward VIII's brother Albert, duke of York (the second son), became George VI. You are correct that the duke of Kent (the fourth son in the family) is credited with creating or at least popularizing the long roll DB.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Do any 40's 6 button Double-breasted suits have a one button closure, or is this strictly a later styling?

Well, the six button double breasted style that only has the single lower button closure is a modern thing.

Almost, but not quite, true. Surprisingly, it did exist in the '40s. A picture from 1941:



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[Matt Deckard]

The all too common really bad fit on a one button functional is a modern thing. Mostly a problem from super thin materials.

 

[JamesT1]

Mostly a problem from super thin materials.

This seems to lead to more problems than it is worth.

 

[PenMan]

thin fabrics

Depends what you want. One of my goals is always to find the thinnest, unlined fabric available since I spend much of my time in Australia. It works just as well in a Chicago or New York winter since most people live, work and eat in climate controlled homes, offices and restaurants all year round.

Of course, wools have advanced so much in the last 50 years that a light weight can be as durable as an older heavy one. I also like linen and poplin. In the last 30 years, comfort has become a premium issue so things like bigger armholes and lighter fabrics have taken over. I would hate to see a step backward in terms of comfort as the trend toward better dressing standards loses steam. The vintage clothes that we like are better for a number of reasons: I don't think weight of fabric is one of the big ones.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Raises an interesting point. The late 30s/early 40s suit that was found for me in Australia is absurdly heavy for the climate. And 3-piece. As heavy as any of my other golden era suits. Surely the guys in the golden era in Australia were not labouring under the weight of wool that was common in western Europe/North America etc. I'd imagined lightweight wools and linens/silks would have been prevalent ... maybe not.

As for comfort, i find that much of the modern perceived comfort is just that: Perceived. Higher armholes are NOT, in fact less comfortable than lower ones. By and large, thinner fabrics wear out quicker, and lower production standards (in off the peg and MTM) mean seams "go" (that is: give up) quicker than on the older suits.

For those of us who like to feel like we're WEARING something, the vintage heavyweights can't be beat. (obviously a cold climate helps.) The fact that my dry cleaner cannot carry two of my suits at the same time due to weight gives me a twang of sadistic pleasure (apparently she can easily carry 5 modern production 3-piece suits at the same time).

bk

 

[PenMan]

Australia until the 1970s was very British and, at least at the higher end of society, did little to adapt to the environment. In the 70s England was drawn into the European Union and to some degree abandoned Australia. Australians began for the first time to look to Asia for trade and inspiration.

My daughter's high school uniform is a green blazer, white shirt and black watch tartan skirt. At my son's school they wear grey wool jacket and pants with a green (white striped) rep tie and white shirt. Very English, very stylish,and pretty heavy, no doubt to hold up to the abuse a kid dishes out. I love the accents at the girl's school: for example, I have 'stolen' her black watch scarf. It is my favourite tartan.

 

[Fletch]

My problem with the lightweight fabrics is that they wrinkle so easily, and things like lapels and pan legs don't "blade" nicely - they just flop. OTOH, I'm hyperhydrotic, so they keep me somewhat more comfortable even if they get soaked. (and sometimes I can steam wrinkles out just by wearing them! )

 

[JamesT1]

Even though all my suits are modern, I prefer 13oz and above for my fabric (my current in-the-works suit is 20oz!). maybe it is because I have very little "insulation" and Chicago winters are not very forgiving, or maybe it is because they seem to drape better, who knows...

 

[Harry Pierpont]

What about inside jacket pockets? Most all my jackets have a small inside pocket on the lower left, makes a great pocket for a flask!

 

[Orgetorix]

What about inside jacket pockets? Most all my jackets have a small inside pocket on the lower left, makes a great pocket for a flask!

Indeed it does. It's usually called an inside ticket pocket, and I find it's just about perfect for my cell phone!

 

[adamgottschalk]

I've got to have several inside pockets: one for my wallet (with 3x5 cards), one for my spare pocket square (for ladies in particular, or perhaps for food mishaps), and one for a flask or similar item. Additionally, my jackets from mytailor.com have a pen pocket inside--never knew I needed one until my first night on the town with a pen pocket. My most recent sports coat has an outside ticket pocket--which I use for everything, tickets, coins, keys, etc.

 

[reetpleat]

Date this suit?

I have had this suit siting around for years and am offering it to a fl member I think it will fit well. NEver looked too closely at it. Assumed it was late forties, but seems maybe a little older. Do you think this is kind of Young man's new style as displayed in this ad below. Can't figure out how to post pics but here are some links.

NOt quite as long below the buttons, or maybe the buttons are just a little lower. Would you say this is meant to be a bit biggish in the shoulders. the shoulders kind of fit, but the torso is pretty snug. I think it is a bout a size smaller than I am.

No label except a coat hook strip on the back of neck that says lining of rayon. I am usually pretty good at dating suits, but this one is an odd one. I would almost expect this style to be a light weight gab, but it is a heavier wool. Any ideas as to date?

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?1ddabd3e2f.jpg

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?ad7fac1176.jpg

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?931ffcbeca.jpg

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?063e0292dd.jpg

 

[Mr. Rover]

Are there any union labels in the pockets?

 

[reetpleat]

Are there any union labels in the pockets?

Nothing I can find anywhere, except the collar loop which says lining of rayon. It seems to be good quality, and I would almost think it is custom, but the collar loop.

 

[resortes805]

It definately looks like model no. 110 in the fashion illustration. I've seen similar suits in old photos of post war Bebop musicians.

What are some of the details on the pants, waistband, no waistband? Tunnel loops, dropped loops, no loops?

If I found a suit like that in my size It would certainly be one my favorites!