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Denim Jackets - New or Vintage

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,084
Location
London, UK
Supposedly after five years and three washes. Can you really get it to look like this?

fade-of-the-day-levis-type-3-trucker-jacket-front.jpg

fade-of-the-day-levis-type-3-trucker-jacket-back.jpg

Sure, that's dead easy. You just have to wear it every day, and never take it off, even in bed.

And sleep on a belt sander.

;)

I don't think I would have the balls to wear cord with cord like that. Even if I wanted too. :eek:

I can see it being a pretty cool workwear look. When I was about eight, I had a matching Type 3 and jeans type outfit in an olive green corduroy, which was my "party, not collar and tie but jeans inappropriate" outfit. I loved it, I remember. I think the brand was American Pie.... My mother bought me a few bits and pieces with that label, mostly trousers. Likely it was from the Grattans catalogue, circa 1981/2 that would have been. Before I was old enough to be much interested in anything bar the toys pages (I seem to recall about four years later the lingerie pages became much more interesting somehow).

This thread left me with a hankering for an old-style denim jacket - Levis I or II - but the price of them is beyond what I'm willing to pay for one. I ended up picking up a fawn-colour cord Evisu western jacket for £40 on eBay last night. It's a sample but looks the thing and not too much of a risk price-wise.

Good price ofr Evisu if it works out - they're pricey usually. I looked at some nice Japanese ones in Son of Stag last year, but at £350 odds for a very simple denim jacket, decided to pass.

What's a rider type denim jacket?

BWM did a really cool proper denim motorcycle suit that was basically a trucker jacket and a pair of jeans. But the whole thing is quality, has armor inserts and everything and looks really nice.

Did you ever see the SJC Yardboss jeans and jacket they did with a full kevlar lining? I don't know how popular they were, but I've yet to see bike-priented denim that looked as cool. I'm on at Simon to do then again, but this time with additional pockets for CE armour in the knees / hips / elbow / shoulder / back. Perfect for Summer. There are quite a few denim jackets on the market with bike armour options, though most of them are the sameold, same old Type 3, which I don't entirely care for. That said, I'm moderately tempted by the Helston's Cannonball Raw model:

helstons-cannonball.jpg


hs0323_bleu_1.jpg


Echoes of a simplified Type 2, with the addition of the zipped hip-pockets.... Could live without the hip pockets, but they wouldn't be deal breakers. Nice jacket for riding in crazy hot weather like London recently (I've been shocked by how many bikers I've seen out there this last week wearing little more than a pair of shorts and a tshirt. Madness.)

Oh.

By 'rider,' I thought the reference was to a denim jacket that was built like a Schott Excelled - a denim 'Marlon Brando' jacket. I had one of those before my classic Levi jacket. Unfortunately I mutilated it trying to keep up with the fads of the time - removed the sleeves, lots of patches, and application of bleach in strategic places with a Q-tip.

It wouldn't fit me now, anyway. I was young. haha

They're available now...

SH943_1.jpg


bbf8cce5b82fe8495b883750948db898.jpg


The denim look jars a little to my eye with this design, but that's to personal taste. I would consider one in black drill cotton for Summer.... indeed, I'm halfway tempted to find a cheap one that fits me and whip off the sleeves to use it as a sort of travel-waistcoat. All the pockets for stowing stuff when going through an airport, without the too-warm feel of a jacket. (I travle a lot between China and the UK in April through June, so thse are significant considerations).

I could even be tempted by a Ramones seal on the back.... ;)
 
Messages
16,855
Did you ever see the SJC Yardboss jeans and jacket they did with a full kevlar lining? I don't know how popular they were, but I've yet to see bike-priented denim that looked as cool. I'm on at Simon to do then again, but this time with additional pockets for CE armour in the knees / hips / elbow / shoulder / back. Perfect for Summer. There are quite a few denim jackets on the market with bike armour options, though most of them are the sameold, same old Type 3, which I don't entirely care for. That said, I'm moderately tempted by the Helston's Cannonball Raw model:

helstons-cannonball.jpg


hs0323_bleu_1.jpg

Extremely, utterly cool! Only thing I would've preferred is if it would button over a zipper, like on a leather versions of these jackets, but that's just nitpicking. Yesterday I saw some guy on a bike wearing a denim and jeans that were nearly exactly the same, except that both clearly had armour underneath. Shit, this is just too cool. . . It's not that pricey too, not considerably more than your regular jean jacket. Looks like it does have pockets for armour! But no, I've a perfectly fine leather type 3, no need to look further! Absolutely no need to...

helstons-cannonball-2-1.jpg

helstons-cannonball-1.jpg
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,084
Location
London, UK
Yes, it has the pockets.... I think it might even come with the elbow and shoulder armour ready installed.... I'm going to be in Paris in August; I may well check em out then...
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,427
Location
Glasgow
I'm never really swayed by these leather jacket styles in another fabric. I understand why it's done, but it's just not for me. I even have a problem with proper biker jackets being produced in delicate lamb skin! It just feels wrong.
 
Messages
12,983
Location
Germany
If I would be motorcycling, I wouldn' t even prefer my beloved type III-jacket! I think, dark-grey stonewashed type I-jacket would be my choice!! :cool: That's, why I like type I. It got that "genuine" aura. :)
 

Atticus Finch

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,718
Location
Coastal North Carolina, USA
I've never collected denim jackets, but like most rural folks, I've always kept one or two around. I currently have two. One is an old Levi's Trucker with tons of character. It's not vintage in the Fedora Lounge sense, but it's old in that I aquired it used and have had it forever. The other jacket is this Prison Blues "Western Jacket".

I'm not sure if Prison Blues denim is still around, but their story is interesting. Inmates of the Eastern Oregon Correctional Institute began making denim jackets, pants and yard coats for their own use. Then, at some point, they began selling their work. I bought this jacket several years before I retired...maybe seven or eight years ago. As a prosecutor, I was intrigued by the idea of prisoners making clothing for profit. It is a very well-made jacket, but I haven't worn it much. It's cut is more trim than a Levi's Trucker...particularly in the waist...and until recently, it was a bit snug in the middle. Happily, I've lost some of my desk-jockey spare tire, and I'm now looking forward to this fall, when I can put some long overdue miles on this jacket.

POST EDIT: I just found the following on the David Morgan site.

Prison Blues
Prison Blues was formed by the State of Oregon in 1989 as a way to create jobs for the Oregon Correctional Institution.

The factory, located at the Eastern Oregon Correctional Institution in Pendleton, Oregon, is 47,000 square feet and produces many garments including shirts, jeans and hats. Each inmate must pass a detailed hiring process. They are then trained by managers with private industry experience.

By purchasing a Prison Blues garment, you get a quality product made by inmates who take pride in their work. You are also supporting a program that teaches inmates valuable working skills that they need to become contributing members of society.

Made on the Inside to be worn on the Outside.




A5E921DC-6679-4848-8CBF-BE1A6DCB14E5_zpsd3dxlot3.jpg


AF
 
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Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,084
Location
London, UK
I'm never really swayed by these leather jacket styles in another fabric. I understand why it's done, but it's just not for me. I even have a problem with proper biker jackets being produced in delicate lamb skin! It just feels wrong.

I know what you mean.... I think sometimes it can be interesting - like the Aero Bootlegger in tweed. I'd love a Seabiscuit in a sturdy drill cotton for that part of the Summer when it's too damn hot for leather. But yeah, some things just look a bit odd, especially if the appeal is a mix of both the cut and the leather of the original. Strangest looking thing ever I saw was a cafe racer in blue, stonewash denim.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,084
Location
London, UK
I've never collected denim jackets, but like most rural folks, I've always kept one or two around. I currently have two. One is an old Levi's Trucker with tons of character. It's not vintage in the Fedora Lounge sense, but it's old in that I aquired it used and have had it forever. The other jacket is this Prison Blues "Western Jacket".

I'm not sure if Prison Blues denim is still around, but their story is interesting. Inmates of the Eastern Oregon Correctional Institute began making denim jackets, pants and yard coats for their own use. Then, at some point, they began selling their work. I bought this jacket several years before I retired...maybe seven or eight years ago. As a prosecutor, I was intrigued by the idea of prisoners making clothing for profit. It is a very well-made jacket, but I haven't worn it much. It's cut is more trim than a Levi's Trucker...particularly in the waist...and until recently, it was a bit snug in the middle. Happily, I've lost some of my desk-jockey spare tire, and I'm now looking forward to this fall, when I can put some long overdue miles on this jacket.


A5E921DC-6679-4848-8CBF-BE1A6DCB14E5_zpsd3dxlot3.jpg


AF

To the best of my knowledge they are still around - still available for sale in the UK outlets. I had a couple of pairs of their jeans back around 2008; they were still excellent after a couple of years' wear (still have them somewhere, but I'm too big for them now). I remember a lot of buzz about them; I think they would be more prominent now but for the fact that the selvedge craze took off, but it's certainly hard to beat them, quality-wise, for the money. I liked the ethics of the project also; I gather they had evidence to show that recidivism was cut by 60% for the inmates who volunteered for the programme and thus found themselves more employable on release.
 
Messages
16,855
Strangest looking thing ever I saw was a cafe racer in blue, stonewash denim.

I've seen that tho can't recall where, but I really loved it. It was a classic two chest pockets CR and all, just in denim. Really unusual but cool stuff.
 
Messages
12,983
Location
Germany
I thought about, how to weigh my type III-jackets. Aah, wait, my (mechanical) kitchen-scale!!

So, I grabbed it and weighed my type III-Denim jacket, Canvas-jacket and sherpa-jacket.

Denim and Canvas are circa 775 grams. Sherpa is circa 1.150 grams.

My cotton-fieldjacket is circa. 875 grams.

Life's good... :D
 
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Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,084
Location
London, UK
The Helstons does rather tempt me. That Iron Heart café racer.... eh.... if it's a proper, armoured bike jacket I can see the utility in it, but aesthetically it doesn't do it for me.
 

Sonero

Practically Family
Messages
867
Location
San Diego / Tijuana
Extremely, utterly cool! Only thing I would've preferred is if it would button over a zipper, like on a leather versions of these jackets, but that's just nitpicking. Yesterday I saw some guy on a bike wearing a denim and jeans that were nearly exactly the same, except that both clearly had armour underneath. Shit, this is just too cool. . . It's not that pricey too, not considerably more than your regular jean jacket. Looks like it does have pockets for armour! But no, I've a perfectly fine leather type 3, no need to look further! Absolutely no need to...

helstons-cannonball-2-1.jpg

helstons-cannonball-1.jpg

I want this jacket !

Can you please tell me if you purchased it from the Helston website ? I went on it but it did not have a cart option. I sent them an email in english so I hope they respond.

Can you describe sizing to us ? From my limited research it seems french sizing is yet different than the UK ? A XXXL french apparently is a USA XXL ?

What an amazing jacket.
 

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