Dating Vintage Stetsons by Liner: A Field Guide

[ScottF]

Premier Bowler

From ebay:

 

[Annixter]

Introduction and Help Identifying Hats

Hello All,

I'm new to the forum, but I have benefited from the invaluable information on this website the past month. I'm of a younger generation, but my morals, ethics, and style, if you will, have always been rooted in earlier America. I restore and enjoy classic cars, listen to early Jazz, Blues, and Big Band Swing, enjoy a good waltz and Lindy, and I enjoy the attire of the 1920's through the 50's. I'm the only person I know who has these interests, so it's nice to find a huge group of people here who have something in common.

I haven't had a lot of money to spend on clothing, but I've slowly collected a modern semi-1930s-style suit, a pair of Florsheim wingtips, a 1930s-style wool overcoat, and I've been wearing a wool Country Gentleman fedora (a present)--which doesn't look all that great with my facial features. However, after saving some money, and researching vintage Stetson fedoras as best I could, I recently purchased 2 Stetsons off eBay. I'm fairly certain of their age, from this and other threads, but some verification from the more knowledgeable would be appreciated.

The first one is a dark gray, 2" brim Royal Stetson (it looks bluish in the pictures, but the lighting is poor). Am I correct that it is a late 1950s vintage? The liner is a deep burgundy/black with a plastic insert. Price tag is $11.95. It fits me as well as I can image any would.

The second is a light gray, medium-length hair Stetson Special with a 2.25" brim. Am I correct to place this between 1936 and 1942-ish? There is no price tag, although the sweatband, liner, and crests appear to match those of that age group I've seen. Also, it was advertised as a "long-hair wool" fedora, but I don't believe it is wool. I apologize for my ignorance in differentiating between wool and beaver-blend fur, but it seems much too light to be wool, and it smells like fur. Also, from what I've found, the Stetson Special was a mid-range quality fur in that time period, so I cannot see it as being wool; am I correct here?

It is in extremely good condition, although it is slightly smaller than my hat size. I find that it looks better on me with it worn a little up in the front and cocked to the side a little, and that seems to help with the fit. I've been playing around with shaping both hats, as they came to me with no creases or dents, and they haven't been properly kept in so long that they won't completely take their original form.

 

[rlk]

Welcome to the Lounge. You are certainly off to a great start! Your research has lead you to the generally correct dating conclusions. The Special is probably on the early side and is a "Heather" fur felt of mixed colors.

 

[Annixter]

Thanks for the help, rlk. I guess this time my investigation paid off. I'm very surprised at the low prices the hats went for, but, then again, I don't know what the market is like for such things.

 

[jimmy the lid]

February 16, 1960 Liner:

The fact that this liner is from very early in 1960 indicates that it was also in use in the very late 50's. As the 60's progressed, this particular logo changed a bit, becoming a bit smaller in size and including more color. In any event, this particular liner is tied to a store receipt for 2/16/60 -- which makes it a reliable entry for this "Field Guide." Note also the use of "7 3/8" rather than ("3/8") on the size tag.

Cheers,
JtL

 

[carouselvic]

That is what I have always thought. It's nice to have confirmation.

 

[StetsonHomburg]

What date would you place this hat (my first and it should arrive in a week)... http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330410113293&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

 

[ScottF]

What date would you place this hat (my first and it should arrive in a week)... http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330410113293&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Late '50s. The logos are definitely '50s and the color in the liner logo indicates late '50 (or early '60s), but that sweatband stitching and leather quality looks top-notch - more like an older hat, so no newer than late '50s. I love that smooth soft leather that Stetson used at times.

 

[Dinerman]

Late '50s?

 

[ScottF]

Late '50s?

JINX

(glad to see my answer lines up with the expert's! )

 

[StetsonHomburg]

Late '50s. The logos are definitely '50s and the color in the liner logo indicates late '50 (or early '60s), but that sweatband stitching and leather quality looks top-notch - more like an older hat, so no newer than late '50s. I love that smooth soft leather that Stetson used at times.

Thanks... I have one more hat if you could take a look and see the date... http://cgi.ebay.ca/hit-mans-STETSON...Men_s_Women_s_Accessories?hash=item3efd8f0540 lol

 

[2manyhats]

Just got this one today. I think its late 60's, I could be wrong though. What do you guys think?[huh]

 

[feltfan]

Seems like a good guess to me, off the top of my head.
What I want to know more about is this "Crafted Edge".
Can you post close ups in some appropriate thread?

I can't find much info on this using our terrible search
mechanism or Google. Is that the Cavanagh Edge look-alike
that was done with glue?

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=49257

 

[2manyhats]

Seems like a good guess to me, off the top of my head.
What I want to know more about is this "Crafted Edge".
Can you post close ups in some appropriate thread?

I can't find much info on this using our terrible search
mechanism or Google. Is that the Cavanagh Edge look-alike
that was done with glue?

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=49257

I'm very sorry feltfan I put this in the wrong thread, I have other pics here . Umm, not sure what "Cavanagh Edge look-alike" means.

 

[Optionseeker]

Hi All,

I'm pretty new to FL and hope that you folks can help me understand this listing on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Vintage-New-Stet...Men_s_Women_s_Accessories&hash=item5193fad18a

I like the hat and the size is right but I wonder if it is actually 'vintage'.

Opinions?

Regards,

J

 

[rlk]

Hi All,

I'm pretty new to FL and hope that you folks can help me understand this listing on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Vintage-New-Stet...Men_s_Women_s_Accessories&hash=item5193fad18a

I like the hat and the size is right but I wonder if it is actually 'vintage'.

Opinions?

Regards,

J

Welcome to the Lounge(if not already greeted)
Not really the right thread for the question, but this hat is currently available.
http://www.menshats.com/product/145/cowboy-hats
I don't know precisely how fresh the ebay example is.

 

[Joshbru3]

I found this picture on ebay. I looked through the thread and didnt see this kind of label. It was from a bowler obviously. Im not sure on the date. Any idea?

 

[rlk]

I found this picture on ebay. I looked through the thread and didnt see this kind of label. It was from a bowler obviously. Im not sure on the date. Any idea?

http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy337/joshbru3/stetsonlabel.jpg[/IMG]

I think its somewhere in a thread, but this is 30's.

 

[Joshbru3]

I think its somewhere in a thread, but this is 30's.

Thanks RLK. I had a stetson derby/bowler question , and you might be able to answer it. Ive seen lots of pictures of Stetson Derby/Bowlers from the turn of the century through the 30's. Some have very fancy silk liners and some just have a sticker like this one. But some of the bowlers have Superior Quality marked even though they just have a liner sticker. Was there a reason that a bowler would have used or not used a silk liner rather than a sticker or vice versa? Were the bowlers made without liners just considered summer bowlers because they were cooler?

 

[rlk]

Thanks RLK. I had a stetson derby/bowler question , and you might be able to answer it. Ive seen lots of pictures of Stetson Derby/Bowlers from the turn of the century through the 30's. Some have very fancy silk liners and some just have a sticker like this one. But some of the bowlers have Superior Quality marked even though they just have a liner sticker. Was there a reason that a bowler would have used or not used a silk liner rather than a sticker or vice versa? Were the bowlers made without liners just considered summer bowlers because they were cooler?

We've had a couple of examples of the same hat body and sweatband with a liner and a tip sticker so my suspicion is that it was a retailer/wholesaler choice. Not sure if original price was a variable. Some hats are definitely lighter weight, like the vented Derbies, and obviously wouldn't be lined.