Dating two British hats: A Tress & co bowler & Lincoln Bennett "Lincona" hat

[Pinkcoke]

I bought these two hats from one shop and the dates I have gathered so far indicate the companies where active in the same period; so I *think* that they could have come from the same household. (not the same gentleman as the sizes are quite different) If you would be so kind as to help a newbie date them I would be very grateful.

The first: a size 6 5/8 bowler hat by Tress & Co. It has a 2.5" brim, 1" ribbon, 4.5" crown (not expertly measured - I don't know how you're supposed to do this properly) and I measured the circumference as 21.5" or 54.5cm.
So far I have found from The (British) National Archives that this company was active between 1890-1967. under the trade mark emblem are the words "made expressly for E.F.Afford Shrewsbury" could this be a landowner purchasing hats for his workers as was the original purpose of these hats? (I do live only 20 minutes away from Derby!)

inside: leather sweatband with tie adjuster

a paper label that could be the owner's name? not sure if this reads Glover E. P. or Glove R.E.P and printed manufacturer's name.

and this paper label which I only found today underneath the leather sweatband, it has a perferated top edge which has been torn perhaps when sold? Handwritten details of registered shape, style and color and 'set flat' written on top- anyone know any further information on this?

Really for its age I think this hat is in excellent condition; despite this there are some small problems; it has some faint marks to the front of the crown (as though splattered with mud) is it possible to remove or improve the appearance of these? and the stitching holding the sweatband to the lining tape has 'dissolved' most of the way round. Would it be worth fixing both of these if I was going to sell?


The second: a size 7 1/4 soft felt? hat called " The Lincona Hat" by Lincoln Bennett. It has a 2" brim, 1 6/8" ribbon and I measured the circumference as 22 7/8" or 58cm. Again I have learned from the National Archives online that Lincoln Bennett were active from 1863-1966

The last image's label is found just underneath the lining at the front of the hat.
I do not know with this hat if it was intended to be creased or round, brim up or down - or are these all personal choices?

In terms of condition this one isn't such a great colour inside but the construction is sound all over. As I said its very soft and consequently sort of dented in the crown's shape when 'puffed out' and like the bowler hat the end of its ribbon is fraying - are they normally kept this way or sealed to prevent further damage?
What would I call this sort of hat and how could it be dated?

 

[Pinkcoke]

Is there another area this thread could be moved to for the right people to read it? I thought there was an interest in British hats on here...

 

[danofarlington]

Is there another area this thread could be moved to for the right people to read it? I thought there was an interest in British hats on here...

You may have stumped them all.

 

[zetwal]

I can only say that I do like the Lincoln Bennett very much. It's a lovely hat.

 

[Pinkcoke]

well gee the vintage guild consider you guys to be the hat experts here (or at least men's hats...) can you give some people a poke to glance over?

 

[Dinerman]

So far I have found from The (British) National Archives that this company was active between 1890-1967. under the trade mark emblem are the words "made expressly for E.F.Afford Shrewsbury" could this be a landowner purchasing hats for his workers as was the original purpose of these hats? (I do live only 20 minutes away from Derby!)

and this paper label which I only found today underneath the leather sweatband, it has a perferated top edge which has been torn perhaps when sold? Handwritten details of registered shape, style and color and 'set flat' written on top- anyone know any further information on this?

That's a re-order tag. In the factory they would have had big sheets of them, like stamps, hence the perforations and tear. Basically the same idea as the product codes on the labels of modern clothes. Indicates the Color, block, maybe flanging?

Really for its age I think this hat is in excellent condition; despite this there are some small problems; it has some faint marks to the front of the crown (as though splattered with mud) is it possible to remove or improve the appearance of these? and the stitching holding the sweatband to the lining tape has 'dissolved' most of the way round. Would it be worth fixing both of these if I was going to sell?

Just give it a brushing to get dust off. Repairing the sweatband would probably mean having to replace it, which would hurt the historical value, and they simply don't make replacements of the quality of the original. I'm more well versed with American hats, but both the hats you've posted look like they're probably from the '20s.

The last image's label is found just underneath the lining at the front of the hat.
I do not know with this hat if it was intended to be creased or round, brim up or down - or are these all personal choices?

In terms of condition this one isn't such a great colour inside but the construction is sound all over. As I said its very soft and consequently sort of dented in the crown's shape when 'puffed out' and like the bowler hat the end of its ribbon is fraying - are they normally kept this way or sealed to prevent further damage?
What would I call this sort of hat and how could it be dated?

This one's a fedora. Meant to have a crease down the middle, just like you have it photographed. A nice soft crease like that is good if you're trying to sell it, because it can be easily changed by the buyer to their own personal preference. A hat like this would usually be worn brim up in the back, down in the front.
The "frayed" ribbon edge is NOT damage and DO NOT try to "fix" it. I've bought hats where sellers have trimmed the feathered edge to try to "restore it" between the point they photographed it and shipped it. Really ruins the hat. This feathering is a mark of quality ribbon and of a quality hatter, something that was intentionally done at the factory, and was especially popular in the 1920s and 1930s.

The fedora also probably dates to the '20s-'30s time period. Because of the small size of the derby, it's probably worth $10-$20 IF you can find anyone to buy it, which can be difficult. The fedora is a much rarer hat in a much better size (especially since a UK 7-1/4 is 60cm which is comparable a US 7-3/8) . If it's in as good condition as it looks, if I were selling it, I would expect it to go for at least $150, probably more.

 

[Pinkcoke]

Wow it seems like there's complete opposites between the UK/US tastes at the moment! Bowler hats are supposedly quite popular here (for both men & women) in fancy dress, for events like the horse races & Goodwood Revival whereas the fedora isn't worn half as much as I can see it is in the US. I have an etsy account but do guys on here use it? or is it very common to buy through classifieds and ebay?

I bought the bowler for more than that but I was charmed by it's age (I like old things...) and history in the demise of british hatmaking. Mind you if I sold the fedora it would make up for it!

Thanks for a great reply Dinerman and I hope a few others are brave enough to poke there noses in too

 

[The Elizans]

Lincoln Bennett hats

Hello!

An old thread, but worth commenting I think...

I collect British hats from the 1920s - 1950s. Your Bowler is 1930s, Your snap brim (the proper English name for a "Fedora" or "Trilby" is mid to late 1930s. Indeed, the frayed ribbon is a mark of quality and is typical of British hats from the 1930s. The High crown, reverse taper and proportions again hint that it is a 1930s hat. If you're selling - I'm buying! I have one just like it called "The Melton" made by Lincoln Bennett, I'll try to post a picture later.

 

[Shangas]

That bowler is a hell of a head-crusher! My hat-size is 7! I can't imagine who would have a head-size in the 6-range!