custom/MTM suit, where to start? guidance needed!

[djd]

I've used ravistailor.com for half a dozen suits, trousers, etc. Theyve always been pretty good and they have a huge range of fabrics you can choose from. They also do fairly regular roadshows where they'll measure you up properly

 

[KILO NOVEMBER]

Watch for similar name

I had an experience with a similarly-named outfit that goes by the name of "MyCustomTailor.com" which required me to ship the coat back to Thailand, twice at my own expense, to get it right. I don't know MyTailor.com, but I will advise you to avoid MyCustomTailor.com and be careful when typing the URL.

 

[Twit]

For those in the UK I can recommend Gresham Blake, http://www.greshamblake.com. I get all my suits made there and they will do pretty much what you want and its a good experience being measured etc. They are maybe a bit MODish for a lot of tastes here, but they certainly are classic and I've always found the fit to be spot on, only thing is you either have to be in London or Brighton. I'm heading there again in a couple of weeks to the bank account will no doubt take a battering...!

 

[avedwards]

I'm currently having a suit made by this place: http://www.smalleysgentsoutfitters.co.uk

The owner showed me a few suits they had made and the quality seems to be very good. He can also do proper fishtail back trousers and appears to be able to do a proper belted back jacket (I have yet to see how mine turns out of course). The only downside is that it's only really an option for those who live in the UK.

 

[Twit]

I'm pretty sure they will do a top job! Any business that has been around for that long has got to be doing something right!

 

[avedwards]

Not necessarily, since Gieves and Hawks make some attrocious formalwear despite being around for a long time. I was willing to put my confidence in Smalleys though after having seen some of their work. The fact that an independent tailor said it is good quality helped too.

 

[billyspew]

Alan,

I'm in Nottingham fairly regularly so I'd be interested in the results, how much (if you don't mind me asking) is it costing?

I'd second Gresham Blake, though I've only had the custom shirts, a friend of mine had his wedding suit made there and it turned out great.

Bill

 

[avedwards]

I'll let you know. It should take about another five weeks.

The price varies depending on the fabric. My three piece SB cost £625 (£525 for a two piece) with an 11oz navy herringbone wool by Scabal. What I liked is that they don't charge extra for details such as the belt back, trouser cuffs or wide legged trousers.

They have a very big selection of good quality wools, and a small selection of quite nice linen.

 

[djd]

I'm getting measured by one of the travelling Ravistailor.com tailors tomorrow in Belfast. I'll be interested to see how that goes and how much I'm pressured to order something on the day! I shall take the oportunity to have a good look through the fabric samples.

 

[djd]

Had my measuring session today with Ravistailor.com. Very impressive. So much so that I picked out some fabric and a design and put down a deposit.... Three piece, wide peak lapels, half belt back, high waisted trousers all in a nice brown scotish made tweed. I'm sure it'll look great when I finally pay for it!

 

[avedwards]

Picked up my suit from Smalleys in Nottingham (thankfully they weren't looted or vandalised whilst this: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-nottinghamshire-14480004 happened last night).

I will post pictures as soon as I can. First I'll list the pros and cons of the suit for the benefit of those in the UK who may wish to use Smalleys in the future.

Pros:
-To my uneducated eyes the suit appears to be fully hand canvassed.
-The trousers are nice and high waisted as I requested them. The forward pleats are also properly constructed, if a bit closer together than I would have preferred (though this is only a very minor downside).
-The fit is spot on.
-The armholes are nearly as high as on vintage suits (as I requested).
-The sleeves were made with surgeon's cuffs even though I forgot to ask for this detail.
-The three roll two effect is exactly the way it should be.

Cons:
-The material is not as matte as I thought it would be. It is by no means shiny, it's just that certain parts of the herringbone reflect the light from certain angles.
-The gorge of the lapels is too high for my liking though this is my fault for not specifying it to be lower.
-The waistcoat is too long (for high waisted trousers), though this is again my fault for not specifying. I'm hopeful that my alterations woman can take an inch off the waistcoat by losing a button.
-The buttons are made of plastic, though this can easily be replaced.
-The belted back has no pleats. Apparently the tailor was unable to do this. I'm hopeful that my alterations woman can also fix this.


Overall, it is a well made suit. I will definitely wear it proudly (though with the cuff buttons closed at all times unless it gets so warm that I feel the need to roll up my sleeves ). Except for the belted back the cons are all either my fault for not specifying or very petty things. I would recommend Smalleys to others in the area, just make sure you specify every detail if you want a period accurate suit.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I don't know but do you think a belted back without pleats is "wrong" itself or just less desirable because you wanted them?

 

[avedwards]

I don't know but do you think a belted back without pleats is "wrong" itself or just less desirable because you wanted them?

I would say less desirable as it's still an unusual feature which looks quite nice in my opinion. I'm hopeful that my alterations lady (who has over 40 years tailoring experience) can take the belt off and put pleats in and then replace the belt.

My bigger fear was that the belt was placed too high, but a detailed search of the FL and thunderw21's blog suggests that the belt is in the right position. It just seemed high because it's far higher than my trouser waist, but then so is the belt on a trench coat.

 

[Tomasso]

-The buttons are made of plastic, though this can easily be replaced.
.

I would keep the original buttons in your position. I always find it a shame to alter original things where it isn't completely necessary.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Maybe on vintage suits (as compared to MTM suits that don't have the same historical value)?

 

[avedwards]

Maybe on vintage suits (as compared to MTM suits that don't have the same historical value)?

:arated:
There's one thing changing a MTM of no historical value which I had made for myself, but I see no need to alter a vintage jacket which already has nice horn buttons which are part of the historical value of the jacket in my opinion.

 

[Tomasso]

Ahhhh, so there's a method to your madness.........

 

[avedwards]

Ahhhh, so there's a method to your madness.........

Of course . I always have a rule that I will not make irreversable alterations to vintage pieces (I class changing buttons as irreversable due to the high likelihood of the original buttons no longer being together with the jacket by the time someone else may get it). I see modern pieces as completely different and will freely them as I see necessary. This includes removing labels from shirts to stop them scratching my back, unrolling the bottoms of chinos to make them look more sensible in fashionable "vintage" shops, and removing the filling from ties so they can tie a smaller knot.

 

[Qirrel]

I would say less desirable as it's still an unusual feature which looks quite nice in my opinion. I'm hopeful that my alterations lady (who has over 40 years tailoring experience) can take the belt off and put pleats in and then replace the belt.

This is only possible, or rather, advisable, to the extent that there is enough inlay in the sideseam. Adding pleats will increase the waist suppression, so the same amount taken out by pleats would need to be let out. If there is inlay it should be a simple job for your alterationist.

 

[avedwards]

This is only possible, or rather, advisable, to the extent that there is enough inlay in the sideseam. Adding pleats will increase the waist suppression, so the same amount taken out by pleats would need to be let out. If there is inlay it should be a simple job for your alterationist.

There is a little bit of material in the side seams so it should be possible to make two pleats, maybe even my desired four if they are very small pleats.