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Cross zip nation

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,843
Location
East Java
until you see the chocobo on the back:)

I think it's because unlike mine, the above is made from hh which is stiffer and therefore the lapels stay in shape much better.
seems like they have a frozen pockets set template, and just measure it from the hem, longer jacket in your size have "lower" pocket set, and smaller jacket like Rabbit's have more center pocket set, while the pockets have same distance to each other and fixed margin to the hem, also seems like it has fixed "windflap" panel width too, making your lapel slimmer and longer, and smaller jacket has fuller lapel in proportion, strange decision totally change the look of the jacket based on the size.
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,691
Location
Europe
That was the first cross-zip I tried on.






I knew beforehand that the FH would not fit because of the unusually wide shoulders. Hence the reason I wrote "predictably, . . ."



I would love to, but there are no local RMC retailers. Does anyone in SoCal have a RMC cross-zip in a 42 or 44 that I can try on?



I don't know how to spec a proper fit and would end up eating a large loss.



Truthfully, I have not yet made a firm decision to purchase a cross-zip and, based on my initial testing, I am far from convinced that a cross-zip is for me. I wanted to find a proper fit to see how it drapes and decide whether a cross-zip is something I feel comfortable wearing. The awkward fits of the four jackets I tried on moved me in the opposite direction. I am still open to the idea but, unless and until I try on a cross-zip that sings to me, I am still firmly uncommitted.

Super, I am kind of surprised that you didn’t mention Himel’s “Avro” so far. Your Himel’s are perfect fits as far as I am concerned, and the Avro just is a very cool interpretation. Granted, it’s a risk going custom on your first x-zip, but I am sure David/Eli could sort you out.
 

Mysteryo

One Too Many
Messages
1,312
Location
Nantes (FR)
Epic Buco J23 original
87A112DE-3A8B-4E7E-8BF3-CD8945316141.jpeg
 

Wildhorses

Practically Family
Messages
538
Location
France
This is the black Steerhide label that used after the short lived Green label. This label is used all through the 40s into the early 50s. I have a jacket a similar jacket in this style. The zipper can date it 40s or 50s.

View attachment 324963 View attachment 324965 View attachment 324964
The RP jacket arrived yesterday. The great thing is that the leather is amazing, thick, heavy, indestructible with no damage. My first impression was the the same as when I received my first brand new FQHH Aero long time ago…
But this one is supposed to be Steerhide, and there I absolutely can't tell the difference with heavy horsehide.
The bad thing is that it's really stiff. I did use some Pecard on it, and it will be necessary to do it some times more, and I will have to rub all the jacket with my fingers until it softens. This reminds me of a 70s police jacket that was almost as stiff. It will take time for sure, this jacket has been stored and unworn during several decades. My only real concern is the seams. I will have to do some stitching on one shoulder/sleeve jonction, and eventually on the sleeve cuffs, but that is doable. The Pocket zippers have seen corrosion, but the main zipper is nice. I did check the zipper thread, and I confirm it dates this RP from the 1950s, no surprise here, you were right. All zippers work fine. Everything is original, I think. The lining is ok, but it won't last long when (if) I wear the jacket in the future. In the sleeves, the lining has holes and is torn. This is a rare find, and I will do my best to
make it wearable again. I did not try it for the moment, I want to wait until it is pliable again, but the measurements are nice for me. I will post some pics later.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,843
Location
East Java
Few days ago finally I got to try out the 1st mockup, well somehow i feel they didnt dig out any of my previous patterns they have done in the past, and decided to start from scratch and somehow the shoulder is 1.5cm too narrow on each arm, p2p is perfect, while the waist is boxy because they somehow misread my drawing, totally eliminate the side panel and half wrap the front panel to the backpanel making a waistless tubular body.
I cant judge the sleeve length since it is too short now but with wider shoulder it might be perfect, i imagine with the same p2p and wider shoulder the sleeve will hang clean unlike now.
The length is perfect for me, my pants is low rise there, with my mid rise jeans it would be perfect, on low rise pant i will wear the jacket sans its belt, half the reason i want removable belt, another reason i want black belt to wear with jeans even without the jacket
since they surprise call me while im out wearing chunky turtleneck i cant really judge how the neck trully fit on me, the collar and lapel seems fine i like the size and while i asked for slightly curving zip but i got really straight slant, it will be smoother in operation so im still weighing my decission to insist curved or just go with straight.
Pockets config are really funky there lucky they only draw it with pencil, because it was not optimal too much to the side the chest pocket was really on my armpit hah.
Screenshot_20210423-174441_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20210423-174505_Gallery.jpg
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
Few days ago finally I got to try out the 1st mockup, well somehow i feel they didnt dig out any of my previous patterns they have done in the past, and decided to start from scratch and somehow the shoulder is 1.5cm too narrow on each arm, p2p is perfect, while the waist is boxy because they somehow misread my drawing, totally eliminate the side panel and half wrap the front panel to the backpanel making a waistless tubular body.
I cant judge the sleeve length since it is too short now but with wider shoulder it might be perfect, i imagine with the same p2p and wider shoulder the sleeve will hang clean unlike now.
The length is perfect for me, my pants is low rise there, with my mid rise jeans it would be perfect, on low rise pant i will wear the jacket sans its belt, half the reason i want removable belt, another reason i want black belt to wear with jeans even without the jacket
since they surprise call me while im out wearing chunky turtleneck i cant really judge how the neck trully fit on me, the collar and lapel seems fine i like the size and while i asked for slightly curving zip but i got really straight slant, it will be smoother in operation so im still weighing my decission to insist curved or just go with straight.
Pockets config are really funky there lucky they only draw it with pencil, because it was not optimal too much to the side the chest pocket was really on my armpit hah.
View attachment 329163 View attachment 329164

Great start!
 

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