adamgottschalk
A-List Customer
- Messages
- 405
- Location
- NewYork/Florida
Since I first started dabbling in colognes a couple of months ago, thanks to the Lounge, I have become an unrepentant, unapologetic fragrance lover. Sometimes, I can hardly think of anything else. I'd seriously consider finding my way to working in the industry--and I started with a post saying I'd just as soon buy a bottle as make my own! Still true enough, but now the idea of becoming a fragrance maker is not such a far cry from reality, at least in terms of distant dreams.
It certainly helps that we have The Perfume House here in Portland. TPH is owned by a fellow named Chris who is one of 13 master perfumers in the world, and the only American ever trained by whatever French organization it is that designates "master perfumer." It is said that he can pick out every single note in any fragrance he smells. TPH is not only the largest, it's the ONLY store of its kind in the country: they sell only high-quality perfumes, nothing else; and they only sell fragrances made with pure-grape alcohol. Chris also sells ultra-high-quality, privately-owned essences a couple of times a year; he calls customers in for special shows. An example: Essence of Snow Rose!!! Insane and sublime, totally intoxicating. Snow Rose grows only in the Himalayas, and then each flower lasts no more than a day after growing up through the snow and ice. Imagine how hard it is to make an essence of the stuff! Being that all the essences are so difficult and expensive to make, they're all privately commissioned and owned. Still, 1 oz only costs between $250 and $400 (which a friend from LA says is ridiculously cheap).
TPH and Chris have special relationships with various perfume houses around the world. For example, Ranc?©. Their Le Vainquer is the best, most delicious, fresh, summer-type fragrance (citrus & melons on the top) I've ever smelled. Ranc?© gave Chris quantities of the original perfumes from the original vats designed and made for Napoleon in 1805, which were perfectly preserved. (Did you know Napoleon was history's most gung ho botanist, instructing his armies not touch gardens or farms in the lands they conquered until he had a chance to examine them first? Napoleon collected his favorite scents and plants from all over and brought them home to his perfumer...) Ranc?©'s only condition was that Chris keep the price low ($75 for 1.7 oz) and tell the whole story of its creation to everyone who buys a bottle. (They also sell the original Josephine, designed at the same time and meant to be a perfect match for Le Vainquer; the two together create a unique 3rd scent which was once only witnessed when Napoleon and Josephine touched...or, you know, again maybe, if you happen to be so lucky.) If you have a hard time believing any of this, I encourage you to call TPH yourself; if you're lucky, Chris will be there and you can hear it from the horse's mouth: (503) 234-5375.
I've tried more frags in the last couple of months than I can count. No end in sight. My collection will only grow. As Chris is quick to point out, a given fragrance is really only good for a 12-hour period at a maximum; you want different scents for different moods, different occasions, different seasons, etc. One maker I will definitely buy something from soon is Serge Lutens; many sheerly amazing unisex frags. The tough part is choosing one (or two!)
I no longer take anything with a scent lightly. I use unscented shave cream and after-shave balm. A few of my favorite colognes for now (most of which were mentioned on the recent Classic Colognes thread):
1. Le Vainquer, 1805. Fresh, but an eau de parfum, so it really lasts. It smells so good you want to eat your own arm. Complex but perfectly balanced; just plain yummy (a (fragrance savvy) woman's comment: I'm sorry, Adam, I've tried, and that's just the best ever (after I noted that the liquid level in my bottle seemed to get a little lower every time she visited my bathroom)). Top: Grapefruit, Bergamot, GINGER, Melon, Watermelon, Italian Mandarin. Middle: Lavender, Geranium, Lily of the Valley, Nutmeg, Calabrian Jasmine. Base: Sandalwood, Vetiver, Florentine Iris, Leather, Ambergris, Musk.
2. Jean Patou, Patou pour Homme. Total pleasure. Warm, woody, incense. Great classy frag for cool/cold weather. Another which might become a signature. Top: Hot Pepper, Lavender, Tarragon, Black Pepper, Bergamot, Galbanum. Middle: Bourbon, Vetiver, Cedar, Patchouli, Clary, Sage. Base: Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Mysore, Cistus Labdanum.
3. Guerlain, L'Instant. Sexy while being playful and powdery (a woman's comment: Wow. That's sexy.) Sensual and warm while being elegant. Sweet woods and easy to understand. Luscious but nearly unnoticeable; it just seems to blend in with everything and make it all richer.
Also by Guerlain: Eau de Guerlain (many of the great points of Eau Imperiale (which really can't be equaled I don't think) but in a classy eau de toilette, so it actually lasts for a decent period of time; a little less spicy, a little more mint and a sweeter dry down (Eau Imperiale doesn't really have a drydown--it just disappears. Quickly); a woman's comment: When I smell that, the first thing I think of is food, like really nice Asian food with fresh herbs
Mouchoir de Monsieur (sophisticated, spicy, gentlemanly, old world; its "raunchy" notes remind me of Creed Green Irish Tweed; I can actually see myself wearing this for "boys' night out," so the name is pretty apt: gentleman in a nutshell; turns powdery after a couple of hours). This fragrance has really grown on me a lot. I now consider this and Eau de Guerlain my signature scents. No one, at least no one outside of FL, basenotes, or related environs, would ever think, "Mmh, someone's wearing cologne." Indescribably complex is that oh-so-Guerlain way.
Guerlain's Vetiver is pretty amazing; starts off as a blast of sharpness and spiciness, then changes dramatically over the next few hours, to a little warmer (an utterly unique warmth, where the bergamot, cedar, and tobacco meet), then a little sweet, then a little powdery. Great show. I just can't seem to picture where it fits into my own particular life.
4. Aramis Havana. Sadly discontinued, but you can still get it on eBay (or re-create it or have it re-created). Very complex but succinct and striking. A certain tartness that reminds me of Le Vainquer. Gets compliments every time I wear it (even at the subtle levels I wear any perfume). Check this out--Top: Coriander seed, Anise, Birch Tar, Juniper Berry, Tangerine, Grapefruit, Orange. Middle: Bay Rum, Cumin, Jamaican Pimiento Berry, Pepper, Jasmine, Hyacinth. Base: Exotic Woods, Tobacco, Patchouli, Cedarwood, Myrrh, Labdanum, Oilbanum, Tonka Bean, Vanilla. A bit of an old-world flavor. Sharp, compelling, festive, definitely sunny-day wear. Delectably piquant.
Another GREAT one by Aramis: Tuscany. Simple: Bergamot, Geranium, Patchouli. Warm. A little bit of the sweet 80s at first, but it dries down to a sophisticated complement. Would work well in a variety of circumstances.
5. Dunhill for Men (from 1934). Reminds Le Vainquer and Havana, mentioned above, but with different fruit, a different tartness, and a little more elegant/formal. I think it's a tad colder than the above, but a female friend called it warmer.
6. Burberry Brit. Similar to L'Instant in the dry down, but a little more floral/spicy, a little more complex. I sometimes layer the two (carefully, with subtlety).
A few almosts:
1.Idole de Lubin. Sweet but not overly so, spicy and warm, very comfortable and inviting. Complex, splashy start with a woody dry down. This is Lubin's 466th fragrance; they've been around since 1798.
2. Dior Bois D'Argent. Rich and complex but has a little too much of a toothpaste flavor to my nose; Dior Jules. Reminds me of Creed Green Irish Tweed in its having a bit of an earthy, "raunchy" quality, at least at first, then gets sweeter with the dry down. I like it better on my skin than GIT.
3.Givenchy Blue Label. Very similar to Le Vainquer and Havana--and Armani's Acqua di Gio for that matter--though maybe a tad sweeter...thus when I asked for a sample at TPH, the response was, "Have you tried Napoleon's?".
From my own experience: the roll-on vials are the way to go. With the sprays, you always waste some into the air, and can't really regulate the amount you're putting on very well. You can get small empty glass roll-on vials, in various sizes, on eBay for cheap, with funnels and pipettes. Allows you to apply exactly the amount you want, with not a single wasted drop. The hardest part is decanting the original into the smaller container (that's where mini bottles work really well).
Aside from Serge Lutens, I'd also like to try Helmut Lang Cuiron, but there are too many others to name as well.
Shower and shave:
Dr. Bronner's unscented liquid Castile soap
Caswell-Massey 1752 unscented shave cream applied with a badger brush; I was insisting on using an old metal Atra razor I had, but I recently got a Mach III type (a cool art-deco handle from Caswell-Massey), and, well, there's no doubt at all that I get a much closer shave, a shave that last longer in fact, less irritated skin, and I even find less danger of nicking myself somehow (the latter two points may be due to: more surface area so fewer points of acute "attack"?)
Barclay-Crocker unscented Vitamin E After-Shave Cream (they also have a bunch of Caswell-Massey stuff at discount prices...www.barclaycrocker.com)
C-M Damask-rose talc
Tannenbaum Pine Tar shampoo; actually smells like pine tar, but it's good stuff, keeping your hair mighty healthy, and your hair doesn't end up smelling like tar, especially if you use (as I do) some kind of hair tonic
Uncle Harry's Sandalwood/Vetiver spray deodorant. Awesome; it really, really works, and smells sophisticated to boot. Contains only: Rose water, colloidal silver water, sandalwood & vetiver oils (www.uncleharrys.com)
Pashana Bay Rum hair tonic. I'd like to try Dominica, but I've got the bottle of Pashana (which goes a long way) and I like it quite a bit. Really keeps my hair looking healthy, so much that several women have told me so.
It certainly helps that we have The Perfume House here in Portland. TPH is owned by a fellow named Chris who is one of 13 master perfumers in the world, and the only American ever trained by whatever French organization it is that designates "master perfumer." It is said that he can pick out every single note in any fragrance he smells. TPH is not only the largest, it's the ONLY store of its kind in the country: they sell only high-quality perfumes, nothing else; and they only sell fragrances made with pure-grape alcohol. Chris also sells ultra-high-quality, privately-owned essences a couple of times a year; he calls customers in for special shows. An example: Essence of Snow Rose!!! Insane and sublime, totally intoxicating. Snow Rose grows only in the Himalayas, and then each flower lasts no more than a day after growing up through the snow and ice. Imagine how hard it is to make an essence of the stuff! Being that all the essences are so difficult and expensive to make, they're all privately commissioned and owned. Still, 1 oz only costs between $250 and $400 (which a friend from LA says is ridiculously cheap).
TPH and Chris have special relationships with various perfume houses around the world. For example, Ranc?©. Their Le Vainquer is the best, most delicious, fresh, summer-type fragrance (citrus & melons on the top) I've ever smelled. Ranc?© gave Chris quantities of the original perfumes from the original vats designed and made for Napoleon in 1805, which were perfectly preserved. (Did you know Napoleon was history's most gung ho botanist, instructing his armies not touch gardens or farms in the lands they conquered until he had a chance to examine them first? Napoleon collected his favorite scents and plants from all over and brought them home to his perfumer...) Ranc?©'s only condition was that Chris keep the price low ($75 for 1.7 oz) and tell the whole story of its creation to everyone who buys a bottle. (They also sell the original Josephine, designed at the same time and meant to be a perfect match for Le Vainquer; the two together create a unique 3rd scent which was once only witnessed when Napoleon and Josephine touched...or, you know, again maybe, if you happen to be so lucky.) If you have a hard time believing any of this, I encourage you to call TPH yourself; if you're lucky, Chris will be there and you can hear it from the horse's mouth: (503) 234-5375.
I've tried more frags in the last couple of months than I can count. No end in sight. My collection will only grow. As Chris is quick to point out, a given fragrance is really only good for a 12-hour period at a maximum; you want different scents for different moods, different occasions, different seasons, etc. One maker I will definitely buy something from soon is Serge Lutens; many sheerly amazing unisex frags. The tough part is choosing one (or two!)
I no longer take anything with a scent lightly. I use unscented shave cream and after-shave balm. A few of my favorite colognes for now (most of which were mentioned on the recent Classic Colognes thread):
1. Le Vainquer, 1805. Fresh, but an eau de parfum, so it really lasts. It smells so good you want to eat your own arm. Complex but perfectly balanced; just plain yummy (a (fragrance savvy) woman's comment: I'm sorry, Adam, I've tried, and that's just the best ever (after I noted that the liquid level in my bottle seemed to get a little lower every time she visited my bathroom)). Top: Grapefruit, Bergamot, GINGER, Melon, Watermelon, Italian Mandarin. Middle: Lavender, Geranium, Lily of the Valley, Nutmeg, Calabrian Jasmine. Base: Sandalwood, Vetiver, Florentine Iris, Leather, Ambergris, Musk.
2. Jean Patou, Patou pour Homme. Total pleasure. Warm, woody, incense. Great classy frag for cool/cold weather. Another which might become a signature. Top: Hot Pepper, Lavender, Tarragon, Black Pepper, Bergamot, Galbanum. Middle: Bourbon, Vetiver, Cedar, Patchouli, Clary, Sage. Base: Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Mysore, Cistus Labdanum.
3. Guerlain, L'Instant. Sexy while being playful and powdery (a woman's comment: Wow. That's sexy.) Sensual and warm while being elegant. Sweet woods and easy to understand. Luscious but nearly unnoticeable; it just seems to blend in with everything and make it all richer.
Also by Guerlain: Eau de Guerlain (many of the great points of Eau Imperiale (which really can't be equaled I don't think) but in a classy eau de toilette, so it actually lasts for a decent period of time; a little less spicy, a little more mint and a sweeter dry down (Eau Imperiale doesn't really have a drydown--it just disappears. Quickly); a woman's comment: When I smell that, the first thing I think of is food, like really nice Asian food with fresh herbs
Mouchoir de Monsieur (sophisticated, spicy, gentlemanly, old world; its "raunchy" notes remind me of Creed Green Irish Tweed; I can actually see myself wearing this for "boys' night out," so the name is pretty apt: gentleman in a nutshell; turns powdery after a couple of hours). This fragrance has really grown on me a lot. I now consider this and Eau de Guerlain my signature scents. No one, at least no one outside of FL, basenotes, or related environs, would ever think, "Mmh, someone's wearing cologne." Indescribably complex is that oh-so-Guerlain way.
Guerlain's Vetiver is pretty amazing; starts off as a blast of sharpness and spiciness, then changes dramatically over the next few hours, to a little warmer (an utterly unique warmth, where the bergamot, cedar, and tobacco meet), then a little sweet, then a little powdery. Great show. I just can't seem to picture where it fits into my own particular life.
4. Aramis Havana. Sadly discontinued, but you can still get it on eBay (or re-create it or have it re-created). Very complex but succinct and striking. A certain tartness that reminds me of Le Vainquer. Gets compliments every time I wear it (even at the subtle levels I wear any perfume). Check this out--Top: Coriander seed, Anise, Birch Tar, Juniper Berry, Tangerine, Grapefruit, Orange. Middle: Bay Rum, Cumin, Jamaican Pimiento Berry, Pepper, Jasmine, Hyacinth. Base: Exotic Woods, Tobacco, Patchouli, Cedarwood, Myrrh, Labdanum, Oilbanum, Tonka Bean, Vanilla. A bit of an old-world flavor. Sharp, compelling, festive, definitely sunny-day wear. Delectably piquant.
Another GREAT one by Aramis: Tuscany. Simple: Bergamot, Geranium, Patchouli. Warm. A little bit of the sweet 80s at first, but it dries down to a sophisticated complement. Would work well in a variety of circumstances.
5. Dunhill for Men (from 1934). Reminds Le Vainquer and Havana, mentioned above, but with different fruit, a different tartness, and a little more elegant/formal. I think it's a tad colder than the above, but a female friend called it warmer.
6. Burberry Brit. Similar to L'Instant in the dry down, but a little more floral/spicy, a little more complex. I sometimes layer the two (carefully, with subtlety).
A few almosts:
1.Idole de Lubin. Sweet but not overly so, spicy and warm, very comfortable and inviting. Complex, splashy start with a woody dry down. This is Lubin's 466th fragrance; they've been around since 1798.
2. Dior Bois D'Argent. Rich and complex but has a little too much of a toothpaste flavor to my nose; Dior Jules. Reminds me of Creed Green Irish Tweed in its having a bit of an earthy, "raunchy" quality, at least at first, then gets sweeter with the dry down. I like it better on my skin than GIT.
3.Givenchy Blue Label. Very similar to Le Vainquer and Havana--and Armani's Acqua di Gio for that matter--though maybe a tad sweeter...thus when I asked for a sample at TPH, the response was, "Have you tried Napoleon's?".
From my own experience: the roll-on vials are the way to go. With the sprays, you always waste some into the air, and can't really regulate the amount you're putting on very well. You can get small empty glass roll-on vials, in various sizes, on eBay for cheap, with funnels and pipettes. Allows you to apply exactly the amount you want, with not a single wasted drop. The hardest part is decanting the original into the smaller container (that's where mini bottles work really well).
Aside from Serge Lutens, I'd also like to try Helmut Lang Cuiron, but there are too many others to name as well.
Shower and shave:
Dr. Bronner's unscented liquid Castile soap
Caswell-Massey 1752 unscented shave cream applied with a badger brush; I was insisting on using an old metal Atra razor I had, but I recently got a Mach III type (a cool art-deco handle from Caswell-Massey), and, well, there's no doubt at all that I get a much closer shave, a shave that last longer in fact, less irritated skin, and I even find less danger of nicking myself somehow (the latter two points may be due to: more surface area so fewer points of acute "attack"?)
Barclay-Crocker unscented Vitamin E After-Shave Cream (they also have a bunch of Caswell-Massey stuff at discount prices...www.barclaycrocker.com)
C-M Damask-rose talc
Tannenbaum Pine Tar shampoo; actually smells like pine tar, but it's good stuff, keeping your hair mighty healthy, and your hair doesn't end up smelling like tar, especially if you use (as I do) some kind of hair tonic
Uncle Harry's Sandalwood/Vetiver spray deodorant. Awesome; it really, really works, and smells sophisticated to boot. Contains only: Rose water, colloidal silver water, sandalwood & vetiver oils (www.uncleharrys.com)
Pashana Bay Rum hair tonic. I'd like to try Dominica, but I've got the bottle of Pashana (which goes a long way) and I like it quite a bit. Really keeps my hair looking healthy, so much that several women have told me so.
I could see him playing chemist mixing his own concoctions.
