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I've just discovered Tom Ford's 'Tuscan Leather' and 'Tobacco Vanille.' All those flavours of leather; tobacco (as in cigar/pipe) and vanilla really tick the boxes with me. So when I first tried these two fragrances in the departures lounge of London Heathrow, I 'knew' I'd found a winner!!
To date, my three 'must wears' are KNIZE TEN (an established and still quite rare oldie from the early 20's and a fave with the Hollywood crowd); AQUA DI PARMA (Again, a fave with the Golden Era 'IT' crowd) and the more modestly priced, but no less lovely, L'Occitance EAU DES BAUX from Provence. (Oh forgot!! Jo Malone's 'Cafe Noir' with deep coffee flavours is almost edible - should be a Govt. Health Warning on it!!!).
I love dark coffee, cigars, chocolate, ginger, bitter orange, leathery tones in my scents, balanced with something sweet (vanilla does that nicely!).
Anyway, here's a review of the Tom Ford scents that I like!!
Tobacco Vanille
With notes of tobacco leaf, spices, tonka bean, tobacco flower, vanilla, cocoa, dry fruits and wood sap, Tobacco Vanille is described by Tom Ford Beauty as "a modern take on an old world men’s club". In my opinion, to be such a take, the scent has to have a very strong leather note and be even smokier and perhaps a littler harsher. The image that Tobacco Vanilla evokes in my mind is more domiciliary, cozy and warm. It is an image of a dad smoking a pipe, a mom baking something aromatic, maybe gingerbread...It is winter, snow is falling softly, there is the smell of bonfires in the air and the sound of bells...Is it Christmas? Perhaps. It is definitely somewhere in Russia, and most probably even not in the 21st century, maybe even not in the 20th. Tobacco and vanilla go wonderfully well together, and in this particular fragrance the balance of the two accords is perfect. The scent is neither too smoky, nor too fluffy and sweet. The spicy note, which, to me, smells mostly of ginger, ornaments the honeyed smokiness, adding a sweet zing to the composition. The drydown of sugared prunes and soft wood is a cuddly delight. I loved Tobacco Vanille and I think that fans of Ambre Narguile, Sensuelle Russie, Fumerie Turque and Parfumerie Generale's super-secret Un Crime Exotique, should pay special attention to this Private Blend.
Tuscan Leather
Mix Tobacco Vanille with Tuscan Leather and the result would be that very "old world men's club" so dear to Ford's heart. Tuscan Leather, with notes of saffron, raspberry, thyme, olibanum, jasmine, leather, black suede and amberwood, is a husky and warm rendition of leather. The first accord combines tarry smokiness with a very surprising and very delightful raspberry note. I love leather paired with sugared citrus fruits (Piver Cuir de Russie), but I would have never thought that raspberry would be so appropriate in a leather fragrance. And it truly is. It brings charming sweetness, playfulness and sunny warmth to the otherwise rather austere blend. It is like an unexpectedly childish, happy smile on a weather-beaten face. With time, the distinctive berry note subsides, but slight sweetness remains and it softens the composition, toning down the smoky harshness of leather and the peppery sharpness of incense. The latter two notes are the most prominent on my skin throughout the scent's development, with perhaps just a hint of herbs in the heart of the fragrance. Tuscan Leather is rugged and cuddlesome, a very interesting take on leather and a delight for this lover of leather perfumes.
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