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It's folded. You're looking at two layers of leather.
This is what raw edge looks like.
This is what raw edge looks like.
Alright, thank you. So... if it's really tight at 1,6 mm at that part, and pretty much normal/relaxed at 1,8 mm, not showing any tightness/resistance when moving the calipers, you think that 1 mm for the original would be the best option?It's folded. You're looking at two layers of leather.
This is what raw edge looks like.
I really bought these calipers just for this purpose. Is there really no way to get a proper thickness measurement aside from guessing based on double/folded/triple layers?
Thank you. I was really hoping for 1,3 mm because that is what Shawn had suggested to me before for the original. On the other hand, I also have some kind of weird feeling if I go all the way down to 1,0 mm. The 1,2 mm definitely seems like a reasonable option, but would 1,3 mm really be "too much"?If you can't find an actual exposed edge, nope. But measuring tightly doubled parts is accurate, too. It's all good, really. 0.9 mm sounds right.
Go with 1 to 1.2 mm for the repro. Believe me.
Thank you. I was really hoping for 1,3 mm because that is what Shawn had suggested to me before for the original. On the other hand, I also have some kind of weird feeling if I go all the way down to 1,0 mm. The 1,2 mm definitely seems like a reasonable option, but would 1,3 mm really be "too much"?
Or a more important question is, how much does the type of leather influence the behavior of it on a person's body? Let's say... would 1,3 mm goatskin behave similarly to a thinner, let's say 1,0 mm steerhide, but at the same time also be more "superior" in terms of quality?
And maybe a dumb question... but if the freshly made jacket is a little stiff... would it be safe to assume it could soften up and bend more easily after longer wear?
Thank you very much. So according to this, would 1,3 mm goatskin be the absolute safest option then? The lowest risk, so to speak? I mean, if it's absolutely known to be soft and pliable, especially compared to steerhide, then this would seem like the best solution. And if so, is it possible to achieve the similar medium brown "distressed" look like in the original jacket from the series?Goatskin is soft and pliable. But even very thin steerhide can be stiff. It's not good to compare. Deerskin in 2+mm can behave like a soft blanket.
Fine by me. But simply closing it (not deleting) would IMO be a good thing, mainly to avoid unnecessary ridicule and/or potential inflammatory remarks directed at the thread starter - in this case me - for things turning out the way they did.This thread must remain. It can be cited as a prime example.
Thank you for your input. I've had contacts with people involved on the series, writers of certain episodes and even the prop master, but they cannot help with this issue. There is also a museum / preservation collection where tons, I mean really huge amounts of stuff from the series, including clothes, have been stored, but this piece isn't there. And the actor (who is active on Twitter) does not reply to a single person asking him anything about his acting roles in any movie or series. I assume he just doesn't wish to be bothered, and that's fine. The wardrobe apartment however, regards with that particular season and episode, I have not been able to contact.Yeah, ridicule has no place in this thread. We have seen many a project not come to fruition for various reasons. We have also seen some succeed and that is always great to see. A crazy thought - have you thought about writing to the production company of the show and asking them about the jacket? Crazier things have happened, and there is a small chance they might reply.
I appreciate that.I can’t see anyone posting ridicule. Operating in this world can take many paths (custom, new OTR, vintage, focus on certain styles, etc.) and all require time, effort, luck and whatever else to get proficient. And there always is more to learn, even for the few true experts here. Welcome to the journey. Just enjoy it.
Oh man, thanks for the kind words but I don't think I deserve any respect here whatsoever. Primarily because I pissed off the person in question who worked on my drawing, apparently so badly that even though I apologized profusely in three separate very lengthy messages explaining that this is entirely my fault and that I do not blame him for anything, he did not reply back. I even told him details about my private life that even some of my closest relatives do not know. I wished he could accept at least 50% of my apology so that there is no animosity between us. I never apologized to someone in this manner in my entire life. So the whole thing pretty much ruined my entire weekend, I feel like crap, but I guess both him and I learned a lesson, hopefully, for the future. I certainly did.I’ve dropped in and visited/watched this thread as it has developed and I’d have to say this is the most impressive thread I’ve ever read here!
First off just the sheer passion you’ve had in pursuing this project I’ve not seen as equal to.
Second and most importantly the good guys here who have made a sincere and valiant effort trying to help you realize the end results I’ve also not seen an equal to. Especially since this particular type of jacket would not be one most here on the Lounge would pursue. But that did not hinder them in the least bit in trying to help out.
So a genuine tip of my hat and salute to you Zangy and the rest of the good guy crew here in this thread.
I mean... I paid for the drawing without any regrets (even though the person did not require any payment), so why let it go to waste. Your point is indeed a very valid point.Why not go for it? You have the drawing, and you can send the extra info. You will never be guaranteed 100% accuracy, so don't expect it. But you will end up with a jacket very close to what you want.
You seem to be overthinking everything, so getting your feet wet with a first custom order might just be what you need.