Cafe Racer - Sizing/Fit Question

[Grayland]

I've been looking for a nice cafe racer jacket on ebay and have found what I'm looking for, but have a question about the fit. I know they should fit slim, but I'd love to get an idea of the pit to pit/stated size ratio. The size 40 has a 20-inch pit to pit and the size 42 has a 21-inch pit to pit. They both have an action back, so I guess that gives me a little extra room than the pit to pit suggests. I had a size 40 LW Ryder with a 21-inch pit to pit and it was perfect, but it didn't have the action back. Do most cafe racer jackets fit exact as the sizing I've given above? In other words, do size 44 cafe racers have a 22-inch pit to pit? Would a size 38 cafe racer have a 19-inch pit to pit, etc?

 

[Seb Lucas]

I've been looking for a nice cafe racer jacket on ebay and have found what I'm looking for, but have a question about the fit. I know they should fit slim, but I'd love to get an idea of the pit to pit/stated size ratio. The size 40 has a 20-inch pit to pit and the size 42 has a 21-inch pit to pit. They both have an action back, so I guess that gives me a little extra room than the pit to pit suggests. I had a size 40 LW Ryder with a 21-inch pit to pit and it was perfect, but it didn't have the action back. Do most cafe racer jackets fit exact as the sizing I've given above? In other words, do size 44 cafe racers have a 22-inch pit to pit? Would a size 38 cafe racer have a 19-inch pit to pit, etc?

The bottom line with jackets is go with the actual measurement. The label size is somewhat arbitrary. Especially in some vintage cafe racers. I tried a Brooks in a 46 it fit like a 42, etc. A new B model Vanson, by contrast, fits large. If you normally wear a 40, get a 38.

 

[deuxcv]

the above measurements hold true to what coat sizes are in theory.... coat size should equal circumference of chest at widest/thickest section, which again should equal 2x the pit to pit measurement.

 

[Grayland]

the above measurements hold true to what coat sizes are in theory.... coat size should equal circumference of chest at widest/thickest section, which again should equal 2x the pit to pit measurement.

Not really sure what you mean by this? A size 40 sportcoat is usually in the 22-inch pit to pit range. My standard Aero 38 LHB is 22.5-inches pit to pit. A little extra room is going to be required to breathe, cough, digest a pizza, etc.

 

[ButteMT61]

All my jackets are pretty darn close to 4" over the stated/desired size, as Grayland stated.
A "48" will measure out at 52" or 26" x 2.

 

[bretron]

I've had a number of vintage cafe racers and have had similar experience in sizing. Keep in mind tho that you want a sleek fit!

 

[ButteMT61]

I've had a number of vintage cafe racers and have had similar experience in sizing. Keep in mind tho that you want a sleek fit!

Yeah, sorta forgot we were on a Cafe Racer thread there. Moto jackets for me no doubt are tighter. Maybe a 2" over. Have to measure, but I don't have a good fitting moto jacket right now due to weight loss

 

[jksu]

agree with others who had said to decide based on the exact measurements, not the label. and decide based on how you want the jacket to fit.

if you plan to layer, add extra to your true chest size. if you want tight, go with only a 2" differential. different brands size "40" mean different things, even if both are "cafe racer" style. same goes with sleeve lengths... a size 40 schott/vanson, depending on the model, tends to have shorter sleeves, in my experience, than a fox creek/brimaco.

 

[Seb Lucas]

And although a cafe racer tends to be a bit slimmer - people overdo it. For my money, the best fitting cafe racer was the Brooks jacket worn by Dennis Leary in season 3 of Rescue Me.

 

[ButteMT61]

And although a cafe racer tends to be a bit slimmer - people overdo it. For my money, the best fitting cafe racer was the Brooks jacket worn by Dennis Leary in season 3 of Rescue Me.

I actually like the one worn by Hugh Laurie in "House" as well.

 

[sportride67]

my favorite by far was the "Nick Corri" actor in the original Nightmare on Elm Street...pretty sure it is identified as an early Kehoe. It had such great patina.

REMEMBER: cafe racer "jackets" were actually designed and marketed as SHIRTS, therefore they were not designed originally in the 50's and 60's to be worn with anything underneath...maybe a t-shirt and that's it...therefore the old ones (pre-70's) are almost always true sizing to the chest and not as a true jacket chest measurement where one would be wearing clothing underneath. I often wear mine without a shirt.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I actually like the one worn by Hugh Laurie in "House" as well.

Yeh, it's a nice thing that Vanson B model. Got them at Insurrection for just over $500 - bargain. The only issue for me with these is that bloody great seam running along the back panel. They are really heavy jackets about 7 pounds!

 

[Seb Lucas]

my favorite by far was the "Nick Corri" actor in the original Nightmare on Elm Street...pretty sure it is identified as an early Kehoe. It had such great patina.

REMEMBER: cafe racer "jackets" were actually designed and marketed as SHIRTS, therefore they were not designed originally in the 50's and 60's to be worn with anything underneath...maybe a t-shirt and that's it...therefore the old ones (pre-70's) are almost always true sizing to the chest and not as a true jacket chest measurement where one would be wearing clothing underneath. I often wear mine without a shirt.

But things evolve, don't they? And their origin may no longer be the issue in terms of fit. I certainly want to be able to fit a sweater under mine if it takes my fancy.