Cafe Racer jacket advice sought!

[Eyechild]

Hi there,

First time poster here. Was wondering if I could de-lurk and seek some advice on purchasing a leather jacket.

For some time I've been lusting after a quality Cafe Racer jacket, after an old housemate managed to find a vintage Lewis Leathers one for next to nothing in a charity shop (lucky). Having popped into the LL store in London, I have to say, I was somewhat nonplussed by the leather (given the cost) on the modern ones, though I love the cut and style.

Stylewise I think the jacket I'd be after would be either a Lewis Leathers Super Sportsman (but without stripes)
http://www.lewisleathers.com/186.html Or a Buco J100... though I can't really justify the coast of a Real McCoys repro...

So I'm thinking of getting a custom from Aero leathers. The main thing is, I don't really like the cut of their Cafe Racers as they stand – they look quite boxy, and I'm not a big fan of the complicated bi-swing back. I want something 'svelter', straighter and slimmer; So here's what I'm thinking of ordering:

Non bi-swing back
2 chest (and maybe) 2 handwarmer pockets, all zippered
nickel zippers (do they do Talon zippers?)
One inside vertical left hand pocket, snap closure.
less boxy fit
1" added to sleeves and length
Black drill lining
Leather FQ HH

Will that get me what I'm after, do people think? would a slim cut jacket without the bi-swing back be uncomfortable? The other option would be Good Wear leather's "Californian Racer"
which looks pretty bang on the money... but would be more expensive for me here in the UK I guess (especially after customs wade in for theirs...)

Anyway, advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

PS: I think I read on here that Insurrection were doing a repro of the J-100... did that ever come to fruition? the photos I remember seeing looked great...

 

[mrc]

Welcome!
You should give Insurrection a ring, since they stock an Aero cafe racer that is almost exactly what you are contemplating. They also have other brands like Vanson and Schott that you might be interested in. Good luck!

 

[Eyechild]

Thanks!

I might well drop them a line... I guess one of the main things is geographical distance – and Aero happening to be in Scotland/the UK. Many good things to be had in the States that aren't so readily available in old blighty! They might have some input anyway.

 

[Dav]

You could always check this site out, they're doing a customised cafe racer that might suit your requirements or will modify one as need be.
http://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2505.0

 

[pipvh]

And there's the Pegasus offering: http://www.pegasusjackets.com/cafe-racer-jacket-description.php

Their styles/cuts look very interesting, plus France is a bit nearer than the US...

 

[pipvh]

Or you could try to find a vintage Brimaco - very nice jackets. I had one for a while: great leather. Also there's a chap called Nigel who has a stall under the Westway on Fridays (Portabello) who has an incredible selection of vintage Lewis Leathers and the like - he's very friendly and helpful. Here's his website: http://www.hi-star.co.uk/

 

[Eyechild]

And there's the Pegasus offering: http://www.pegasusjackets.com/cafe-racer-jacket-description.php

Their styles/cuts look very interesting, plus France is a bit nearer than the US...

Thanks, think I've seen the guy selling them on Ebay – they are definitely an interesting style, I think one of the things that appeals about these is the the slightly deeper 'Mandarin' collar which I think looks pretty sharp. I also like this on the Lewis Leathers cafe racers.

 

[Eyechild]

Or you could try to find a vintage Brimaco - very nice jackets. I had one for a while: great leather. Also there's a chap called Nigel who has a stall under the Westway on Fridays (Portabello) who has an incredible selection of vintage Lewis Leathers and the like - he's very friendly and helpful. Here's his website: http://www.hi-star.co.uk/

I've actually seen a couple of those hunting on Ebay, and they did look pretty nice. I guess the thing is getting the right size... there was a really nice one that was about a 42 chest while I want a 40... thought it might just be a tad roomy, which might negate the whole point of such a trim style... will keep looking out though.

 

[Eyechild]

Or you could try to find a vintage Brimaco - very nice jackets. I had one for a while: great leather. Also there's a chap called Nigel who has a stall under the Westway on Fridays (Portabello) who has an incredible selection of vintage Lewis Leathers and the like - he's very friendly and helpful. Here's his website: http://www.hi-star.co.uk/

And will defo head up to Portabello and check that stall out... next time I have a Friday off!! :/

 

[Eyechild]

You could always check this site out, they're doing a customised cafe racer that might suit your requirements or will modify one as need be.
http://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2505.0

That's a rugged-looking Cafe Racer on there! the chunky zips are definitely an interesting take on the style...

 

[Sillyrib]

aero

because of your location I'd think Aero should be at the top of your list. I'd suggest a Goat Hide one custom fitted. A Cafe Racer is a slim, short cut. You may want one that is a little more loose fitting and longer in the body. The aero steer and horse are very thick and do not drape like ones you'd see in the movies or at the mall. They are more like suits of armor for racing. Thats why I would suggest the goat or medium horse. I had a steerhide one that was impractical for riding or much of anything else so i got rid of it. There are of course used cafe racers on the bay from makers like Brooks, Langlitz, Schott, ect. The Schott vintage horse may be a good choice. I have a vanson cafe that I like also. I think we need to know the purpose for the jacket, fashion or riding.

 

[Eyechild]

Hi Sillyrib,

That was why I was thinking Aero . Must confess I don't ride a motorcycle – just admire the style! In terms of fit, I'd like something slim but not too short – sleeves ending just below the wrist, and body just below the belt/waist, fitted but not constrictive.

This looks like the perfect fit to me:
http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/gwcalracer_images1.html

I must admit that the Aero FQHH ones look very heavy indeed! I would like something practical yet tough that will last a lifetime. Maybe goat or medium horse would do it? does anyone know how Good Wear leather's horsehide compares to Aero's? (it says 1.1 - 1.2mm in thickness). That looks perfect to me...

 

[Hammer Down]

I have a Schott 641HH. It's great! Very fitted and the opposite of boxy. You can also order by chest size, which is nice online. Horse Hide is very unique looking as well. It stands out, even in a room of leather coats!

Check it out:
http://www.schottnyc.com/products/fit/fitted/classic-schott-racer-leather-motorcycle.htm

Aero has some extremely classy stuff. I'm sure you could come up with something custom made that would not be boxy. However, the Schott 641HH is made in a very fitted way, plus you can acquire one for between 5-6 hundred dollars American. I just love the lush heavy cognac-colored horse hides of Aero. They remind me of the old Vanson "Ike" jacket in Horse Hide. It started out like some of Aeros and then went downhill until it was finally discontinued. Now you can only buy an Ike in black.

My favorite jackets are Aeros, Vansons, and Schotts. Custom tailoring/designing is easier with the first two companies. Schott seems less custom-oriented and more mass marketed/designed.

 

[HighandDry]

I tried on Goodwear's cafe racer. The leather is superb and very different from Aero's. It's much thinner and softer than Aero's and doesn't have the flat/waxy look that Aero's FQHH has. Both are great leathers, it just depends on what you want. If you want a Goodwear, the wait might be a long time.

If you do get an Aero, I would recommend the FQHH. I have a coat in their midweight and am not too impressed by it.

I would be careful about changing the length too much on the cafe racer. My Langlitz was a little too long and I had to have it shortened to prevent it from blousing up.

Take a look at Insurrection's site and give them a call. They have a bunch of Aero's.

 

[ando.thun]

If you go for a stiff hide, I strongly recommend horizontal inside pockets. I once tried to get a key out of a vertical pocket and had to take off the jacket to pertform the task.

I was the laughingstock of the day, as all my colleagues had allready started their engines and had time to watch me performing silly moves.

 

[Eyechild]

Hi HighandDry,

"I tried on Goodwear's cafe racer. The leather is superb and very different from Aero's. It's much thinner and softer than Aero's and doesn't have the flat/waxy look that Aero's FQHH has. Both are great leathers, it just depends on what you want. If you want a Goodwear, the wait might be a long time."

I think that's one of the things that puts me off slightly off Aero's FQHH... it does look very matte and shiny, though it's a bit hard to say from the Aero's photography (which isn't great). From what people have said it also sounds very heavy! But then again, if spending that much money, you might as well have the best, right?

Yeah, Goodwear's looks great. It's just the cost/distance/wait that's putting me off a bit. I've seen some great jackets on here people have had made to spec by Aero, so I'm sure they could make me the perfect coat if I asked right.

I sort of wonder if I just asked Aero "could you recreate this jacket" (ie Lewis Leathers Sportsman/Buco J100/Goodwear) in horsehide, if they could or would?

 

[Eyechild]

Thanks all for useful advice. I also saw Insurrection's Brimaco repro the other day, which looked an amazing coat for the price, so I might get on the phone to them and see what they've got in stock.

 

[HighandDry]

Eyechild,

I actually love Aero's FQHH. It's has a flat matte finish, scuffs easily, and does tend to transfer color. I find that it builds character quite quickly.

I would highly recommend Insurrection. They definitely know their jackets!