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Button it (Trivia)

Lokar

A-List Customer
Messages
383
Location
Nowhere
I don't like it. It feels very showy and attention-grabbing ("hey, look at me! I have a bespoke suit!"), and goes against the whole thing - Savile Row often even hide the labels so that it's not obvious from looking inside the coat briefly that it's from the Row - because a gentleman would never want to tell in the first place.

I have some jackets that can be unbuttoned at the sleeves, but I always keep them buttoned up.
 

Yeps

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,456
Location
Philly
I don't see any reason for it to be unbuttoned, and that does seem needlessly showoffy.
 

RobStC

A-List Customer
Messages
371
Location
Edinburgh, Scotland
Yep, definitely far too far on the show-off side of things for my liking. They're trying way too hard to impress IMO, and actually, some really rather ordinary suits now have this feature just to make it look as if they are better.

The Italians really seem to go for this, though.....:( But then they have a weird sense of how to size and wear trousers too :D:D

RobStC (keeping them buttoned).
 

avedwards

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,425
Location
London and Midlands, UK
I don't like it. It feels very showy and attention-grabbing ("hey, look at me! I have a bespoke suit!"), and goes against the whole thing

I agree. Borders on snobbiness in my opinion. If I want to show off that I have nice suits I keep them buttoned up when sitting down which only works looks right with well cut suits (especially with single breasted suits) - a far less flashy way of showing off good tailoring.
 

Danny Ocean

A-List Customer
Messages
488
Location
The Portobello Club
I thought this was interesting:

A question on the Brooks Brother's blog Of Rogue's and Gentlemen:

Lately I’ve noticed men leaving the first button of their suit jacket sleeves unbuttoned. Since only finer or bespoke suits come with working buttonholes, this seems to be a bit showy. What’s your take on this type of flaunting?

Their answer found here:
http://blog.brooksbrothers.com/ask/button-it/

Rue,

In my opinion, there is no need to leave the last cuff buttons undone. As others have mentioned, and I have to agree, this is pure "attention-seeking". I have bespoke tailored jackets, and never leave the last button undone, and my tailor also has a very discreet label.

A well cut, bespoke, tailored jacket speaks for itself, it doesn't need to "advertise".

Danny O
 

Matt_the_chap

One of the Regulars
Messages
129
Location
Sheffield, England
It's 'incorrect' to leave the bottom button open on the cuffs of a jacket - as others have said it's a bit too far down the line of show-offishness. As far as I recall, I read that it was so doctors could originally roll up their sleeves to operate - of course, I could be getting confused with separate cuffs for shirts, otherwise known as Surgeon's Cuffs which are detachable from the shirt.
 

rue

Messages
13,319
Location
California native living in Arizona.
Rue,

In my opinion, there is no need to leave the last cuff buttons undone. As others have mentioned, and I have to agree, this is pure "attention-seeking". I have bespoke tailored jackets, and never leave the last button undone, and my tailor also has a very discreet label.

A well cut, bespoke, tailored jacket speaks for itself, it doesn't need to "advertise".

Danny O

I agree Danny O, with you and everyone here :)
I just thought it was interesting as I had never heard of it. As Cobden said "It looks like you're missing a button" and as you said "A well cut, bespoke, tailored jacket speaks for itself".
 

Cobden

Practically Family
Messages
788
Location
Oxford, UK
It's 'incorrect' to leave the bottom button open on the cuffs of a jacket - as others have said it's a bit too far down the line of show-offishness. As far as I recall, I read that it was so doctors could originally roll up their sleeves to operate - of course, I could be getting confused with separate cuffs for shirts, otherwise known as Surgeon's Cuffs which are detachable from the shirt.

You're quite correct - fastening cuff buttons are a fairly recent innovation, and have their origins as purely decorative rather then functioning. The origins of functioning cuffs was when Doctor's started them so they could roll their sleeves up when elbow deep in intestines or whathaveyou and, once RTW suits became the norm, became an emblem of bespoke
 

Matt_the_chap

One of the Regulars
Messages
129
Location
Sheffield, England
I suppose the two features of separate shirt cuffs and functional jacket sleeves must've combined quite neatly for junior doctors who could only afford one black suit and two shirts with a half-dozen collars.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
When I see this I will sometimes sidle up and whisper in the gent's ear, "He buddy, you missed a button. You might want to check your zipper while you're at it."
 

carldelo

One Too Many
Messages
1,568
Location
Astoria, NYC
I can't wait to get my first bespoke suit so I can roll up shirt AND jacket sleeves when sitting down to dinner at the club, sort of like what THIS guy might do:

06dangerfield.jpg
 

Tailor Tom

One of the Regulars
Messages
131
Location
Minneapolis, MN
What is sort of a sad twist to it all, is that I am now seeing functioning button holes on the sleeves of abysmally cheap coats (say under $100) at stores like Target, etc. There-by cheapening the entire effect and completely diminishing its exclusivity.
One other point, is that the functioning button holes make it more difficult (sometimes impossible) to shorten sleeves.
 

MikeBravo

One Too Many
Messages
1,301
Location
Melbourne, Australia
I can't wait to get my first bespoke suit so I can roll up shirt AND jacket sleeves when sitting down to dinner at the club, sort of like what THIS guy might do:

06dangerfield.jpg

Why wait? Just this weekend I spied a couple of young chaps sporting the thin tie, rolled up suit jacket sleeve look a la Don Johnson in "Miami Vice"
don_johnson_miami_vice0.jpg
and Mister Mister
mister01.jpg
 
Last edited:

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
functioning button holes make it more difficult (sometimes impossible) to shorten sleeves.
Exactly.....you need to shorten from the shoulder ($$$) and forget about lengthening.....Doesn't make sense for RTW..
 

Doc Average

One of the Regulars
Messages
146
Location
Manchester, UK
Functioning cuff buttons aren't necessarily a sign of a bespoke suit these days either. I've spotted them on cheap off the peg numbers recently. Manufacturers have obviously picked up on the perceived cachet of this detail, and there's a good chance it will eventually become common.
 

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