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Buco J-100 in Black Shinki by Diamond Dave

Sloan1874

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Nice leather, but those pockets just look off to me: too small and too close to the zip. I realise I'm the minority at the moment, and I'm willing to be corrected, but since that previous one, I've become, er, sceptical.
 

Bunyip

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I really hadn't noticed that. I think the leather and hardware just looked so pornographic that I didn't notice the pockets. I think they look alright? I tried to imagine them longer, but I think it might be a fine line between too long and too small to throw the symmetry out? I also like the version with the slanted pockets, both look pretty sharp.I'm very much a rookie, but if that gem lobbed up on my doorstep I would be a happy little vegemite.
 

technovox

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1,242
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San Francisco
Nice leather, but those pockets just look off to me: too small and too close to the zip. I realise I'm the minority at the moment, and I'm willing to be corrected, but since that previous one, I've become, er, sceptical.

Good catch. I had to go compare it with the Buco pics on the DD website, and on the website the pockets appear wider and correctly placed.
Maybe it was just an odd camera angle and jacket positioning? I seem to recall Dave saying the arm and pocket zippers on the Bucos were standard length.
 
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navetsea

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Nice leather, but those pockets just look off to me: too small and too close to the zip. I realise I'm the minority at the moment, and I'm willing to be corrected, but since that previous one, I've become, er, sceptical.

exactly... I brought a question about the usual take on CR's chest pocket width, whether they are sized according to the jacket size or a fixed size thing, on this one... it appear small-ish for the jacket.
 
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10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
Pocket-gate™
Making it's way to VeeEllJay...man, jackets are not boring, that's fur sure.

Speaking of zip'd breast pockets, when I ordered my GW, JC took it upon himself to make mine wider for what he figured would be my oversized monkey mitts. Thank god he did, I'd never have got my hand in there had he not. I think they tend to run smaller as a matter of course, so if you're ordering this style, I'd take the time to ask for a pocket wide enough, regardless of maker.
 
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Seb Lucas

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Australia
If the jacket's a repro I want them accurate even if small. Small is the best word for some pockets like those on the 1960's Brooks cafes. I have a few cafes with small pockets and I have a large hand - I only use my thumb and forefinger to access.

Nevertheless you want the pocket scaled to the chest size. This example looks odd with the wide pit to pit . Or so it seems.
 
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16,848
They do seem smallish but perhaps it's just due to the jacket being laid flat?
c0146178_13105859.jpg
 
Messages
10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
People were smaller when these jackets were designed. Like I said, it's the way they were made. If you want/need a wider pocket, ask. You can't ask guys to make you an accurate repop and then complain that something is not to your liking. Pocket width is just another variable that can be changed. I think it's unfair to diss this myself.
 
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People were smaller when these jackets were designed.

I am fairly certain that's just a myth. Average height hasn't really changed at all for centuries. There are many factors to consider when talking about the avg. height, but people, by themselves, haven't gotten taller.
 

Carlos840

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I am fairly certain that's just a myth. Average height hasn't really changed at all for centuries. There are many factors to consider when talking about the avg. height, but people, by themselves, haven't gotten taller.

Have a read around, there are a lot of research showing that we are indeed taller and bigger...
The average enlisted man in the british army was 5 feet 6 inches a hundred years ago, it is now 5 feet 10 inches.
 

Sloan1874

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And not to add to the pain, but now that I'm looking at a larger screen, the top of the zip is unsymmetrical - left side is rounded while the right is squared - and both stick out too much. [huh]
 
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Location
Pasadena, CA
Have a read around, there are a lot of research showing that we are indeed taller and bigger...
The average enlisted man in the british army was 5 feet 6 inches a hundred years ago, it is now 5 feet 10 inches.

Absolutely. There is no doubt to the average human's growth over the last 150 years...
 

Bunyip

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Absolutely. There is no doubt to the average human's growth over the last 150 years...

You bet. Try walking around in some of those old english pubs and at just over 6 foot tall those ceilings feel real low. Also, coaching rugby in schools, the size of young teenagers feet is out of control, plenty of size 14-15....evolution....
 

Carlos840

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4,944
Location
London
Just got these from Dave. This is a special leather finish he has developed for one of his a2 jackets I believe. It looks amazing. I think this could be the one....mind you, the seal Shinki is beating its drums pretty loudly too.
View attachment 31313
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Just to clear things up, "The jacket pictured on here is a 46 and the "master pattern" back then, was a size 38"...

So basically every size got the same pockets, this being a large size, they look small.
 

ProteinNerd

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Location
Sydney
And not to add to the pain, but now that I'm looking at a larger screen, the top of the zip is unsymmetrical - left side is rounded while the right is squared - and both stick out too much. [huh]

Sloan, you don't have to find faults just because you aren't a fan of Dave's work.... come on mate, you are better than that.

The pockets looking a little small I can see that but we would have to see it worn to really know one way or another, but the "unsymmetrical" top of the zip? Nobody is ever, EVER going to notice that outside of a magnified still photograph on a big screen.
 

Carlos840

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Sloan, you don't have to find faults just because you aren't a fan of Dave's work.... come on mate, you are better than that.

The pockets looking a little small I can see that but we would have to see it worn to really know one way or another, but the "unsymmetrical" top of the zip? Nobody is ever, EVER going to notice that outside of a magnified still photograph on a big screen.


I mean, how symmetrical are the the top of this one?

 

ProteinNerd

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Sydney
I mean, how symmetrical are the the top of this one?

Thats Sloans BR isn't it?

I'm not trying to be a smart ass but the DD looks less "unsymmetrical" than the Aero and it might just be the angle of the photo but those chest pockets actually look a little out as well!
 
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navetsea

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East Java
Just to clear things up, "The jacket pictured on here is a 46 and the "master pattern" back then, was a size 38"...

So basically every size got the same pockets, this being a large size, they look small.
Do you perhaps know how long the pocket zip is?

It also seems like the zipper position is measured from the central/main zip , actually make more sense, since a bigger person normally has thicker profile so the part of the torso that is actually facing forward might not that much wider compared to a thinner person.

from that photo, now I see that what actually made the pockets look small was the size of the neck hole... the client that jacket is made for has a strong neck :)
 
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Sloan1874

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8,427
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Glasgow
I think I can hear Julie and Murray's screams of outrage from here :D! But really, the pockets are spot-on, not just because the measurements line up, which they do, but because the left half has simply been flipped to the right (or vice-versa, I'm never sure which side is traditionally produced).
Also, as far the Buco pocket thing goes, surely even back in the 30s and 40s they graded them along with the rest of the design? I wouldn't expect a size 50 jacket to come with the same size of pocket opening for a size 36? By all accounts, you could end up looking like OJ trying to get 'that' glove on.
 

navetsea

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6,870
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East Java
Have a look at this, and honestly please help me! Dave has sent me some pics of some zippers, some of you big brained machines can help me. What should I choose? Protein, your a fellow Aussie, sorry for hijacking your thread mate! Help me help you! Sorry guys, I'm not used to this kid of attention to detail, or customer care for that matter. I feel like a bit of a dummy. Poor Dave is holding my hand and giving me an education, what do you guts think?
View attachment 30755
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View attachment 30756 View attachment 30757
from the photos pocket zip in that style is impossible to be altered... probably much easier to just use another longer zipper, and then replace the puller with that chain with the diamond shaped one for a bigger jacket

talking about lopsided pocket case... probably it's more common that what we expect
BUCO J-100 BJ7001 (1).jpg
 
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