Thanks for your reply Seb.Generally you need to know your ideal measurements and go from there. I don't think an inch more in the chest is a problem but this is down to personal taste. Only you know what works
I wear a 46 and 42 is my normal size. But it is a little roomy - as I prefer them to be. I like to wear a 22.5 inch chest but am OK with an extra inch. I am also tall so it may not show as readily.
I suspect if you are a 40, going on 42 a 44 will fit better. I had a 44 if fit pretty well but I didn't dig the fitted look.
Gold labels are pre 1980.
Your post helped me decide to hold off, there was more than a little frustration that I couldn't get a jacket with the right measurements. I'll keep on trucking.