Brooks Cafe Racer Leather Question

[Seb Lucas]

I just auction sited myself a nice mandarin collar, Brooks cafe racer, mid brown, two pockets, zip out lining (not included). The two pockets are at the bottom- slash pockets, no chest pockets. It's cow -hide. Sorry no photos.

I think it's about 40 years old.

My question is; did Brooks make thick and also light weight versions of their leather jackets, like Vanson? This one is lovely, but quite light. I'd say just on, or possibly less than, 2.5oz and it weighs just 3.3 pounds. Size 44 reg. I don't ride so it's ideal.

Just curious about it.

Cheers

 

[strokes1251]

Is the tag inside the jacket Black with Gold lettering?

 

[shadowrider]

When did Brooks drop the black label with golden writing? I've noticed some other differences between early Brooks racers and late 70s/80s ones, such the shape of zip pullers and the storm flap configuration. I'm also wondering if early models had the zip out liner as well, and if this was sold with the jacket or separately, since it's really hard to find one that comes with it.

 

[strokes1251]

If i remember correctly ( I probably don't so feel free to correct me) but the black tag dropped after the 60s earlier 70s. To me jackets with the newer tag are hit and misses some feel good and some don't (Ive had about 4 new tagged jackets and sold them all)

 

[Seb Lucas]

The tag's black with white writing with "leather sportswear" written in a red stripe. When did that label come in? Vintage Trends (I didn't get the jacket from them) says that this lable is 1970's. I woudln't be surprised if the jacket is 1980's. The zip is a talon The most recently produced Brooks' are really heavy - 3.5oz cowhide. The Brooks sales guy told me their cafe racer model weighs around 7 pounds - twice mine. But as I say, I like the lighter leather.

 

[Qinhan]

The tag's black with white writing with "leather sportswear" written in a red stripe. When did that label come in? Vintage Trends (I didn't get the jacket from them) says that this lable is 1970's. I woudln't be surprised if the jacket is 1980's. The zip is a talon The most recently produced Brooks' are really heavy - 3.5oz cowhide. The Brooks sales guy told me their cafe racer model weighs around 7 pounds - twice mine. But as I say, I like the lighter leather.

According to Rin Tanaka's book, Brooks began using the black, white and red tag in 1979 so your jacket was quite probably made in the 1980's.

 

[sportride67]

I've owned several Brooks leather cafe racer jackets over the years. From what I've seen, their earlier jackets (early 60's and possible late 50's), with black labels AND having the (rare) vertical seam right down the middle of the back was a little thinner, softer, slicker hide than their later (more common) jackets that you find on ebay every day. It seems during the mid to late 60's they got a stiffer and rougher to the touch hide

 

[shadowrider]

Sportride67, would you know what's a good source for Brooks Cafe Racers, besides eBay?
(I've tried to pm you but did not work)

 

[Seb Lucas]

Sportride67, would you know what's a good source for Brooks Cafe Racers, besides eBay?
(I've tried to pm you but did not work)

Vintage Trends
Insurrection Leather
David Himel

Problem is what cost you $190 on ebay will cost you $300-400 from a merchant.

 

[shadowrider]

what cost you $190 on ebay will cost you $300-400 from a merchant

Exactly! One of the reasons I want a Brooks one is that they are fairly cheap compred to other brands. I wouldn't pay more than 250 for a very good condition one. I mean, for that amount you could get something much better on the bay.
Anyway, thanks for the inputs, I will check them out. I only knew Insurrection Leather, but their prices seemed too inflated.

 

[sportride67]

Sportride67, would you know what's a good source for Brooks Cafe Racers, besides eBay?
(I've tried to pm you but did not work)

I honestly have to say ebay is likely the best place. I've been rather successful with it. I wish I could give you a better source, but it seems we're at an age of using online services over actual stores since the overhead for dealers selling items such as vintage leather jackets has been going by the way-side. "Penny-bizarre" a british dealer on ebay has been selling some amazing Brooks cafe racer jackets. Be prepared however as the Brooks jackets have been going up in value steadily over the past couple years.

 

[sportride67]

Sportride67, would you know what's a good source for Brooks Cafe Racers, besides eBay?
(I've tried to pm you but did not work)

I honestly have to say ebay is likely the best place. I've been rather successful with it. I wish I could give you a better source, but it seems we're at an age of using online services over actual stores since the overhead for dealers selling items such as vintage leather jackets has been going by the way-side. "Penny-bizarre" a british dealer on ebay has been selling some amazing Brooks cafe racer jackets. Be prepared however as the Brooks jackets have been going up in value steadily over the past couple years.

 

[shadowrider]

Hello gentlemen, I'm reviving this thread instead of opening a new one since it's the same subject: the Brooks cafè racer jacket.
I finally got myself one of these, which is the old kind with the black and gold label. It's in good condition, only issue is is the storm flap, which has lost its stiffness and now its all floppy and wrinkled up upon itself. This is the old type of storm flap which is only one layer of leather, which means that the inner side is sueded.
Any idea on how I could bring this strip of leather back to some of it original flatness/rigidness?

 

[Seb Lucas]

Reviving my old thread??? I love these cafe racers. Probably my favorite leather jacket. The problem you raise is hard to solve. Try soaking the leather in warm water then place it on a flat surface with a heavy object that runs across the flap and let it dry. That's worked for me before. And, yes, you can soak pretty much any leather in water without harm.

 

[shadowrider]

Hi Lucas, cafè racers are indeed pretty sweet. This is my third one, I already own a red one and a black one with white stripes, plus one black one I had from many years and a few pounds ago that no longer fits (I did give it to my yonger brother at one point to wear, but seeing how he was letting it get ruined I took it fiercely back from him and it's been laying in a box ever since).

But back to the Brooks. I've done some research and looked at many, and I've noticed some differences in the construction of these mighty jackets. That is, besides the previously mentioned vertical seam on the back on older models, black-gold tag vs black-red one, and strom flap made of two leather layers or of one.
In case anyone is interested, I'll list the other ones I've found:
-Pocket zipper pulls: teardrop shape, usually with hole, but I've seen them without, both on modern tag models and on older ones.
-Lining: cotton or satin polyester.
-Bottom hem: I've seen two different types of the bottom hem construction: one is the standard one, with the leather folded over, stitched close to the fold, and then connected to the inner liner on the inside of the jacket. The other is more peculiar, as the leather and the lining are stitched together via a piping on the end, then both are folded upon themselves, then stitched close with a stitching much further from the fold than in the previous configuration. This leaves the piped hem exposed on the inside.
-Facing: this is perhaps the most interesting feature: by facing I mean the leather strip next to the zipper on the inside of the jacket to prevent ripping of the liner. Well, on some models there is a standard strip, on each side, running vertically from the bottom hem up connecting to the collar, and it is connected to the lining on the inner side. The other configuration has a unique piece of leather starting on the bottom hem on one side, riding up to the collar, around it, then down to the other side bottom. Also, this piece is not connected to the lining, but sewn only on one of its side, and it is made of only one layer of leather, meaning you can turn it over and you'll see the suede side. Furthemore, on some models this piece has a zipper sewn for a liner, and it does not on others.
I don't really know how to date this changes in the construction, but it would be really cool if we could put them in some sort of chronological order.
Also, these charactersitics do not apply to contemporary models, which are made in a different way and with a different type of leather.

Lucas, about your much appreciated suggestion, won't water make leather even softer though?

 

[Seb Lucas]

Water makes leather more pliable not softer. It'll act like ironing and should smooth out the ingrained wrinkles. In fact if you ensure it really dries out (over a couple of days in summer), it'll probably go a bit stiffer. That wind flap is meant to be supple - as long as it doesn't have wrinkles it should do the job it's made for. The other option is to have a leather tailor sew a stiff backing into the wind flap. Would cost around $20 over here. Or you can cut it out... I don't ride, so if the flap is annoying, I sometimes remove it. But then I have no interest in preserving my jackets in factory condition.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I just got a perfect almost mint 1960's-70's one with the old label. The Denis Leary jacket from TV'S "Rescue Me" Two chest pockets no side pockets, black rayon lining and in dark brown leather. Advice to would be owners. Size 44 fits like a 42. If you go to the gym and you're usually a 42, a 46 may fit better in these.

And dang me, they are a light leather. This one weighs about a kilo - 2.2 pounds. The leather is a tough cow but only marginally heavier than fashion leather. I don't mind that, but the light weight Schott leather feels like FQHH by comparison. Nice spring autumn jacket.

 

[bn1966]

I've just received a Brooks Cafe Racer following an eBay BIN....on one in my size (46" chest). Leather is very light and supple, Bi-swing back gives plenty of movement and the shoulders are generous. Zipped it's a bit snug in the torso (designed like that for riding I'm informed) lovely Talon zippers all round. The idea is it provides me with a nice non-military spring / summer alternative to the A2 or L2B, intend to wear it open most of the time over a T-shirt. When I hit my warmer weather weight (after getting back in the pool) it should suffice for summer riding (zipped) on my Vespa.

 

[Decerto]

Hi all, just a couple of questions about these jackets.

I was a tight 40 but now I've... outgrown some of my jackets and I'd say 42 now. I'm also blessed with long (27+ in) arms. I've found a jacket that looks good apart from the chest size. In the old days it was 20" pit to pit but I could carry off 21.5" if needed.

I've heard these cafe racers fit close so could I get away with a 46"? The shoulders and arms are perfect and I just need to justify that chest measurement...

A - Chest 46" (23" pit to pit) - (58.5 cm pit to pit)
B - Inner Arm 19" - 48.5 cm
C - Outer Arm 28" - 71 cm
D - Shoulders 18" - 45.5 cm
E - Waist 21" - 53.5 cm
F - Center Back Length 25.75"(without collar) - 65.5cm

Edit: Question 2...

The label text is green, I suspect it used to be gold. In others the labels seem stitched. Does this date the jacket to a specific time?

 

[Seb Lucas]

Generally you need to know your ideal measurements and go from there. I don't think an inch more in the chest is a problem but this is down to personal taste. Only you know what works

I wear a 46 and 42 is my normal size. But it is a little roomy - as I prefer them to be. I like to wear a 22.5 inch chest but am OK with an extra inch. I am also tall so it may not show as readily.

I suspect if you are a 40, going on 42 a 44 will fit better. I had a 44 if fit pretty well but I didn't dig the fitted look.

Gold labels are pre 1980.