BREAKING NEWS: Allen Edmonds Being Bought by Brentwood Associates

[Guttersnipe]

I know Isshinryu is the FL's resident footwear expert (or shoe snob if you like ), but I feel it necessary to pipe in here because there is a lot of bad information flying around this thread. To say that Alden and Allen Edmonds are of equal quality -- save for a higher level of quality control -- is just not true. Just one example is that Alden shoes have two-piece, nailed heels, which is something one see that much today.

Compared to AE's thin rubber bottom layer, the outside hard rubber of the two-piece heel wears like iron!

 

[SteveAS]

Just one example is that Alden shoes have two-piece, nailed heels, which is something one see that much today.

Does Alden do that style of heel on shoes other than shell cordovan shoes? I ask because AE does that style of heel on its shell cordovan shoes, but not its calfskin shoes.

These Aldens make me wonder if Alden also does the two-piece heels only on its shell cordovan shoes:

 

[Guttersnipe]

Does Alden do that style of heel on shoes other than shell cordovan shoes? I ask because AE does that style of heel on its shell cordovan shoes, but not its calfskin shoes.

Regardless of hide, every pair of Alden's dress shoes I've owned of looked at in the store has had two-piece nailed heels. The pictures you posted above are actually (a) the first time I've seen a two-piece heel on a pair of AE and (b) the first time I've seen Alden shoes without a two-piece heel, other than their boots, which often lugged or tread bottoms.

 

[Tomasso]

The pictures you posted above are actually (a) the first time I've seen a two-piece heel on a pair of AE and (b) the first time I've seen Alden shoes without a two-piece heel

Don't you just hate it when you're proven wrong, with photos to boot. I know I do.

As far as a quality comparision between the two: I've always thought Alden to be 'finished' better than AE but not by any great margin. Their pricepoints are close enough that they are probably using the same grade of materials. It's probably the extra time Alden spends finishing their shoes (shell included)that accounts for the higher cost; time = money.

 

[Isshinryu101]

I'd expect exactly the opposite. With the shortage of shell cordovan (all leather really) due to exploding demand in Asia and other emerging markets AE will likely have a price increase and marketing push explaining the price increase is due to increased quality, more expensive manufacturing, etc. People will equate the higher price with better quality and it may actually increase demand for their shell cordovan.




Both AE and Alden get their shell from Horween. "leather is #1, by a far distance" seems more hyperbole than fact. I think Alden gets the first pick of leather and the color 8 they use is by far my favorite cordovan/cordovan available. I prefer the Alden's shell colors slightly over AE but AE's colors have more variation and I've seen some beautiful pairs of their cordovans. I've also seen terrible examples from both Alden and AE where the shell doesn't age evenly and you get tiger striping of the color. I wish AE would incorporate shell into more desirable shoes. The plain toe blucher or split toe from Alden and AE are good examples. I don't think there is a huge quality gap but the Alden's are just better looking shoes IMO.

I'd be interested in this too. I own several pair of AE and a few pair of Alden's. I don't really find there is a difference in quality between the two brands. I just feel that Alden executes their shell cordovan's and boots much better than AE does. I wouldn't buy a pair of calf skin Aldens because I don't see a difference in quality between the Alden and AE that would justify the higher price.

It seems that Alden is becoming more difficult and easier to get in the US at the same time. There isn't a single shoe store that carries Alden in Colorado. I think the closest is Phoenix, AZ or possibly OKC, OK. You can still buy Alden at Brooks Brothers and J Crew but they are special order items. Fortunately, these two chains have excellent return policies so you can bring in a lot shoes to try for fit if you're not sure of your size.

Horween sells many different grades of leather regardless of what some may think. The leather they sell to AE is not as nice as that sold to Alden. The stock sold to Vass is GREATLY superior to that sold to Alden. The shell they sell to Lattanzi is even nicer. You need a larger sample size to really see the differences.

 

[Tomasso]

Horween sells many different grades of leather regardless of what some may think. The leather they sell to AE is not as nice as that sold to Alden. The stock sold to Vass is GREATLY superior to that sold to Alden. The shell they sell to Lattanzi is even nicer. You need a larger sample size to really see the differences.

Horween say that they produce only one grade of shell and that any differences you may see from brand to brand is the result of the handy work of the maker.

 

[Isshinryu101]

Does Alden do that style of heel on shoes other than shell cordovan shoes? I ask because AE does that style of heel on its shell cordovan shoes, but not its calfskin shoes.

These Aldens make me wonder if Alden also does the two-piece heels only on its shell cordovan shoes:

Jeez. The same debate over and over. Alden uses those rubber heels on its' CHEAPER shoes. That model is a $400 to $425 one. Alden's regular models (high $400's) have the nailed and 2-piece heel, as well as a higher quality sole.

Look at shoe mart.

 

[Isshinryu101]

Horween say that they produce only one grade of shell and that any differences you may see from brand to brand is the result of the handy work of the maker.

That is total bullshit. So many experts, but when do these experts pull out the Vass and the Lattanzi & the Santoni goodyear to compare the quality with the AE and the Alden? How about Meermin shell vs. the Saint Crispins stock?? Anyone here even personally seen a pair of either to compare? Internet research does NOT make one an expert... merely a parrot of the BS Internet info.

 

[Isshinryu101]

Regardless of hide, every pair of Alden's dress shoes I've owned of looked at in the store has had two-piece nailed heels. The pictures you posted above are actually (a) the first time I've seen a two-piece heel on a pair of AE and (b) the first time I've seen Alden shoes without a two-piece heel, other than their boots, which often lugged or tread bottoms.

you are NOT wrong. Alden generally DOES use the 2-piece heel. That is a lower-end model by them.

 

[Isshinryu101]

Don't you just hate it when you're proven wrong, with photos to boot. I know I do.

As far as a quality comparision between the two: I've always thought Alden to be 'finished' better than AE but not by any great margin. Their pricepoints are close enough that they are probably using the same grade of materials. It's probably the extra time Alden spends finishing their shoes (shell included)that accounts for the higher cost; time = money.

I love the term, "finished". what does this even mean??? Stitching the uppers together? Welting the shoe? "Finishing" in terms of high end shoes refers to the coloring, sole treatment and the fine details that are added at the end. Neither Alden nor AE really have special "finishing". The part about the materials "probably being the same" is a 100% guess. I have stopped selling allen edmonds modern shoes because there is a noticable difference between the ones from today and the ones that are even 15 years old. This is no "guess". I held 15 older pairs and took them to the local Simms store (which sold AE) and compared them. I also compared both to several dozen pairs of Aldens I was selling at the time (for a friend). Again, no guessing here. In the world of real quality shoes, BOTH brands are very mediocre... just AE is moreso.

 

[Guttersnipe]

Isshinryu, What are your thoughts on shell cordovan AEs? To me, it's always seemed that they're not really worth it because at the ~$600 price point there are manufactures that make a much higher quality shoe.

 

[Tomasso]

That is total bullshit.

Sorry, but I choose to believe the Horweens, who have been producing shell for over a century rather than some newly minted internet shoe expert who has just recently started collecting shoes.

 

[Guttersnipe]

Please keep it civil, guys, I'm rather enjoying this thread (the discussion of AE's sale, place in the market, and possible future implications due to the sale).

It would be a shame if the bartenders were forced to lock the thread . . .

 

[Isshinryu101]

Sorry, but I choose to believe the Horweens, who have been producing shell for over a century rather than some newly minted internet shoe expert who has just recently started collecting shoes.

you are a fool who knows absolutely nothing about the subject matter. You read a few articles and buy a coupla pairs of cheap shoes and are now an expert. HA! The emperor wears no clothes. Ignorance is bliss. As for myself.. sure, I am an "internet shoe expert who just started collecting shoes". HA! Thanks for the laugh.

 

[Isshinryu101]

Isshinryu, What are your thoughts on shell cordovan AEs? To me, it's always seemed that they're not really worth it because at the ~$600 price point there are manufactures that make a much higher quality shoe.

I agree 100% here. Money is much better spent elsewhere. In my opinion, the love of Shell is a mystery. This leather is no better than calf... just more expensive. A quality calfskin is so much nicer than shell. The patina it builds is unbelievable. I am also not a huge fan of the "beef roll" that shell develops over time. Very important to always use trees to minimize this.

http://www.meermin.es/catalogo.php?id=1 For example, check out these.

The shell is under $500 USD and the calf is around $350. (PLUS, if u are in the US, the VAT is subtracted).

This is one of MANY examples where the international marketplace has surpassed the US AE & Adens.

I have seen Vass for sale in the $600- $700 range brand new in calf. This is a TRUE hand-welted shoe. The leather is excellent quality and consistent. Hold these in your hands and you will NEVER want a pair of AE or Aldens again.

 

[Isshinryu101]

http://www.pediwear.co.uk/alfred-sargent/products/5551.php

These Alfred Sargent top lines are around $525 USD in calf. AGain, I have no idea why someone would want to pay out $600 for mediocre shell shoes with this an option.

 

[handymike]

Those Meermin boots are lovely.

 

[Isshinryu101]

http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/

Justin Fitzpatrick here has launched a line of his own shoes. I have known him for years and he is very friendly and knowledgable. I would DEFINITELY contact him regarding his new shoes if I was in the market for a mid-priced shoe.

 

[Tomasso]

As for myself.. sure, I am an "internet shoe expert who just started collecting shoes".

Well, I see that we are in agreement on one thing. It's the forceful certainty with which you speak of things unknown to you that leads some to believe otherwise.