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Bowlers making a comback?

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
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4,187
I just wish Americans called them by their proper name -- Derby. They're only Bowlers if they are from England.

Brad
 

The Good

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2,361
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California, USA
Brad Bowers said:
I just wish Americans called them by their proper name -- Derby. They're only Bowlers if they are from England.

Brad

Hmm, I'm an American here, but for all of my life, I've almost always referred to such hats as "Bowlers," and not very often "Derbies..." Is one really more proper than the other, or does it simply just boil down to the numerous Britain vs. U.S. language and cultural differences?
 

Dreispitz

One Too Many
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1,164
I would deifnitely not mind meeting more Bowlers/Derbys in the streets. Sometimes, I feel like a solipsistic singularity lol
 
galopede said:
Here's an enjoyable article from today's Daily Mail from a reporter that's always worn a proper bowler:

Mail Article

that is an enjoyable read, but I wonder how much is embellished. I have never seen a derby / bowler that could withstand the crushing force of my 245lb frame. I've always wanted to try one of these on, but I haven't had the opportunity.

Jude law can definitely pull off one, but I think here in the states, it's still defined somewhat as a "costume" hat. but then again so are half of the fedoras thanks to Mr. Ford. as long and it has straighter sides and doesn't look like a black basket ball cut in half, I'd be willing to give it a proper go. My wife would probably like it because she is a fan of the smaller brimmed hats of mine.
 

Nick D

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2,166
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Upper Michigan
Brad Bowers said:
I just wish Americans called them by their proper name -- Derby. They're only Bowlers if they are from England.

Brad

I've heard both terms about equal in the States. And after living in England, I'll probably always call it a bowler. And I'll never be able to call my braces suspenders ever again :eek:
 
Messages
17,477
Location
Maryland
I switch between Bowler, Derby and Melone based on the country of the maker (although not always consistently). I only have one American Derby (Stetson) and all the rest are either German, Austrian (Melone) or British (Bowler). Also one from France (Chapeau Melon).
 

galopede

One of the Regulars
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226
Location
Gloucester, England
I always understood that the proper name is the Coke hat as Locke & Co. always named their hats after the person that ordered the design, in this case William (or Edward, there is some discussion) Coke, 1st Earl of Leicester.

Gareth
 
RobFedoraField said:
that is an enjoyable read, but I wonder how much is embellished. I have never seen a derby / bowler that could withstand the crushing force of my 245lb frame. I've always wanted to try one of these on, but I haven't had the opportunity.


Well, as an original gamekeepers hat, it had better stand up to some pounding by limbs and brush as they chased away poachers. Holding ones own weight might be a bit over the top if you weight more than 100 pounds though. You can make a bowler as stiff as a hard hat with shellac. That would require a custom fitting as the author mentioned as the hat has no give at all. It must be made to fit your head---bumps and all.
I suppose since the Locke brothers made the original Coke, based on a previous design by their grandfather, the company would still know how to make one to the original design. ;)
The problem with the author's bowler that I have a problem with with nearly all bowlers is the brim curl. It shouldn't have a loose homburg type curl. It should be tight and tightly curled at the sides.
 

Mobile Vulgus

One Too Many
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1,144
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Chicago
Let's call them

Let's update them and call them Bowlbies... or Derblers... or Bowlerbies... er... c'mon... let's update them and start a new trend. Maybe put the word "punk" in front of 'em?

Seriously, I do like the look of a derby on some people. But is it a hat that can be worn effectively with casual clothes? I always thought of them as rather formal headwear.
 

Charlie Huang

Practically Family
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612
Location
Birmingham, UK
I got a nice Lock but it's three sizes too large so I'm on the lookout for another. It has to be very rigid of course and vintage.

I don't think you could get away with wearing bowlers outside of central London. My friends and I could pull it off because we know how to wear bowlers (with a proper suit and tie) rather than just plomping it on our heads pretending it's some sort of 'fashionable accessory'. It just 'is'.

Personally, I wear toppers more often than bowlers.
 
Charlie Huang said:
I got a nice Lock but it's three sizes too large so I'm on the lookout for another. It has to be very rigid of course and vintage.

I don't think you could get away with wearing bowlers outside of central London. My friends and I could pull it off because we know how to wear bowlers (with a proper suit and tie) rather than just plomping it on our heads pretending it's some sort of 'fashionable accessory'. It just 'is'.

Personally, I wear toppers more often than bowlers.

That is very different here. The Derby was the everyman hat. People from workmen up to executives wore derbies in the golden era and before. When Hollywood creates an image of a cowboy hat in the old west, they are completely wrong. Just as many men wore derbies and homburgs with ordinary clothing. The brims were generally wider back then but they were easily identified as such. Here is an example of an older gentleman wearing a working derby:
42-16156364.jpg


The old west:
HU015728.jpg


A sea of derbies:
3a09753r.jpg


Another working man:
PaulStrandBowlerHat.jpg
 

Rodkins

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2,444
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Orlando
jamespowers said:
That is very different here. The Derby was the everyman hat. People from workmen up to executives wore derbies in the golden era and before. When Hollywood creates an image of a cowboy hat in the old west, they are completely wrong. Just as many men wore derbies and homburgs with ordinary clothing. The brims were generally wider back then but they were easily identified as such. Here is an example of an older gentleman wearing a working derby:
Wow - that is neat stuff.
 

rlk

I'll Lock Up
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6,100
Location
Evanston, IL
jamespowers said:
That is very different here. The Derby was the everyman hat. People from workmen up to executives wore derbies in the golden era and before. When Hollywood creates an image of a cowboy hat in the old west, they are completely wrong. Just as many men wore derbies and homburgs with ordinary clothing.
Not entirely. People wore a broad range but there is a functional and style difference between Town and Range. Black small brims are not too useful if you spend a lot of time outdoors in the sun or rain.
 

Nick D

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2,166
Location
Upper Michigan
I wear a bowler in Yorkshire. I've seen two other real bowlers up here, one on an older gent who was the epitome of the English banker, and one on a younger man, it was brown with the finest tweed suit I think I've ever seen.
 
rlk said:
Not entirely. People wore a broad range but there is a functional and style difference between Town and Range. Black small brims are not too useful if you spend a lot of time outdoors in the sun or rain.


As I said, the old west versions had wider brims. Derbies and Homburgs were not all black either. There was a wide assortment of colors but mostly black, brown, gray and shades in between.
You also have to remember that they were not exactly wearing vibrant colors out on the plains and such. Black was a staple color no matter the weather. :D
 

Dan'l

Practically Family
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821
Location
Somewhere in time
I saw a white derby in an antique store in southern Indiana a few months back. I'm not sure how old it was, it was too small so I didn't make the purchase. There was also a black one, it to didn't fit, and that's the one I really wanted. I'm still looking and it's out there somewhere :)
 

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