Bowler color question

[Torpedo]

Hi,

I have been perusing older threads, but I have not found this topic covered.

I understand in earlier times bowlers were considered a more common headgear that they were later; and that they then became a rather formal hat, a rung above the homburg.

Correct so far?

In the earlier times, they came in many colours; but later they seem to have been reduced to either black or gray, and the gray is considered more dressy.

Is that so?

Now, in our times fedoras are not usual, homburgs still less; bowlers are even rarer outside some British backgrounds.

What do you think? Nowadays that fedoras are seen as odd accessories in most quarters, can a bowler have its place? I see it as a formal headgear, to wear as a suit - I'm not sure it can be worn as casual garment.

Would a bowler in dark grey, brown, sand, green or midnight blue be easier or worse to pull off than one in black? That is, would the old times variaty colours strike you as even more inusua?

What do you think? Do many of you wear bowlers, at least occasionally? In what colors?

Of course I know (at first hand ) that just wearing a fedora is unusual... and I wear porkpies too which are generally considered a little more peculiar. So can bowlers be recovered?

 

[FRANKIE]

I haven't worn a bowler in a while, but back in high school I wore a brown one daily for a while. It was just a cheap wool, but I loved that hat, and the more beat up it got the more I loved it. I don't really know if I'd try to pull it off again, though. At the time I was very much a punk rock kid so the clothes I was wearing with it were beyond casual, more to the point of tattered.

I think the bowler functions best either as formal wear or work wear, not so well in between. Of course, I also firmly believe that pretty much anything can look good if it's worn with complete confidence, so if you want to wear a bowler casually and think you look great doing so, go for it.

EDIT: I guess I didn't really answer the question in the original post there, did I? I'd say brown is a good color for a more casual bowler. It can be dressed up if you want to, but on it's own it doesn't scream "Formal Hat."

 

[Lefty]

I understand in earlier times bowlers were considered a more common headgear that they were later; and that they then became a rather formal hat, a rung above the homburg.

Yes, bowlers were once worn by nearly everyone. Yes, they did become a formal hat. I don't know if they were more formal than a homburg.

In the earlier times, they came in many colours; but later they seem to have been reduced to either black or gray, and the gray is considered more dressy.

Are we talking homburgs or bowlers here? I can't recall ever seeing a bowler that wasn't black. The St. Regis homburg, on the other hand, came in all sorts of colors.

Now, in our times fedoras are not usual, homburgs still less; bowlers are even rarer outside some British backgrounds.

I think that depends upon context. I think you'll find more teens/early 20s in derbies because they've got that Clockwork Orange/goth/whatever thing going for them. However, I think you're more likely to find a professional wearing a modern homburg.

What do you think? Nowadays that fedoras are seen as odd accessories in most quarters, can a bowler have its place? I see it as a formal headgear, to wear as a suit - I'm not sure it can be worn as casual garment.

I don't think that homburgs were ever anything other than formal. Worn casually, it just becomes an inaccurate Clockwork Orange look. If you can pull off a bowler, do it.

 

[FRANKIE]

I don't think that homburgs were ever anything other than formal. Worn casually, it just becomes an inaccurate Clockwork Orange look. If you can pull off a bowler, do it.

I don't know that I'd quite say homburgs were always "formal." Certainly, they can be worn in a far less formal environment than, say, black tie. I'd agree that they look strange with a t-shirt, Hawaiian or bowling shirt, but with a basic suit I think they look good. I personally wear mine with a button down shirt and a vest, no tie, regularly. I have made it a bit less formal by putting a bit of a pinch in the crown, though.

 

[Lefty]

I didn't mean that a homburg can only look good with tails. I was just using formal in the loose sense of wearing a suit. Formal does vary widely.

I don't know about a pinch in a homburg though. That sounds a bit strage.

 

[galopede]

The bowler wasn't always formal. It was first designed to order for William Coke, Earl of Leicester, by Locke's hatters. He wanted a solid hat for his gamekeepers to protect them from some of the poachers.

So, it was originally a hard hat for the gamekeepers on the estate, rather than a hat for businessmen.

Locke's still make them and they are known as Cokes as their hats were named after the original requester (is there such a word?)

The name Bowler came from the actual makers of the prototype, Thomas and William Bowler of Southwark.

Gareth

 

[RBH]

Thanks for the info.

I could never get away with wearing one...
but I have always loved the looks of a high crowned bowler.

 

[Brad Bowers]

Believe it or not, back in the day, brown was always the most dressy of the colors for Derbies/Bowlers. Black was the least dressy. Today, it seems to be the other way around.

Brad

 

[Max Flash]

As Gareth correctly points out, Lock & Co hatters in St James, London still make a bowler, but you won't find many people wearing one. Occasionally I see an older generation gentleman wearing one in the City, but very rarely.

The black bowler used to be the staple headwear of bankers in the City (of London), together with grey striped trousers and a black jacket. Of course, bankers now all tend to wear suits so this more old-fashioned style of dress has gone out of fashion.

When I was at Oxford, the University of Oxford private police force (known as Bulldogs) used to wear black bowlers as part of their uniform. Sadly they were abolished in 2003 (the Bulldogs, that is, not the bowlers - although they still exist as "Proctors' Officers", albeit without police powers), but I think some colleges give their porters bowlers as part of their uniforms.

To sum up, I think a bowler would be a conservative look to pull off, especially in black. I would associate a brown bowler with country pursuits such as riding. It would look great worn with tweed but expect some stares! Dark green or blue might look more casual, but you are going to get comments and stares as they are so rare to see. However, not a reason not to do it in my book, especially if you favour the "eccentric Englishman" look!

 

[Micawber]

The bowler wasn't always formal. It was first designed to order for William Coke, Earl of Leicester, by Locke's hatters. He wanted a solid hat for his gamekeepers to protect them from some of the poachers.

So, it was originally a hard hat for the gamekeepers on the estate, rather than a hat for businessmen.

Locke's still make them and they are known as Cokes as their hats were named after the original requester (is there such a word?)

The name Bowler came from the actual makers of the prototype, Thomas and William Bowler of Southwark.

Gareth

The 'keepers at Holham still wear them. Further background.

 

[Slim Portly]

I could never get away with wearing one...
but I have always loved the looks of a high crowned bowler.

Pish posh. It's all about attitude. Stiff upper lip and all that, wot wot?

Do many of you wear bowlers, at least occasionally? In what colors?

I have the black one pictured here, one in brown, and I will soon have a grey bowler to round out my options.

 

[Torpedo]

Thanks to you all for the very interesting insights!

Pish posh. It's all about attitude. Stiff upper lip and all that, wot wot?


I have the black one pictured here, one in brown, and I will soon have a grey bowler to round out my options.

Hi Slim, you certainly look terrific!

Is the brown one you have dark? And, for that matter, which shade of grey do you plan to buy?

I have seen the vintage bowlers one finds rarely come in other colours than black. Are yours new or vintage? If new, what brand? Fur felt or wool?

New bowlers are offered in various colours in fur felt, but apparently mainly on the dark side. I believe they lwould ook fine in lighter tones, in fact I have found them in silverbelly and sand too... but I have not seen any in a mid tone of brown or grey.
Of course I know they are available in many more colours if in wool felt.

Any ideas or recommendations from other bowler wearers?


Regards,

Daniel