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Bootlegger winter jacket

Guppy

I'll Lock Up
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4,339
Location
Cleveland, OH
Alpaca isn't that warm!

I guess not, according to what everyone else seems to say, but I don't think corduroy is all that warm either. But my winter beater this year is a cheap beat up Aero halfbelt deluxe that is alpaca lined, and a size larger than I normally wear. It's been single digits all week, and I've been wearing chunky sweaters under it, and have been completely fine. I believe I could do the same in my bootlegger, which is lined in cotton drill, which is even less warm.

Apart from shearling, I don't believe any of Aero's linings is particularly warm. It's less the lining, and more the insulation between the liner and the shell. Which, most 50's style jackets that Aero makes don't seem to have. Maybe the quilted rayon lining has a bit of insulation to it, but I haven't seeen that firsthand to know.
 

torfjord

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2,804
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Sweden
I did not request anything for fit beyond the sleeve and body length. In my correspondence with Carrie, I did mention the fact that 19.5 inches across the shoulder and 24 inches pit to pit were perfect numbers for me. based on that information and past experience the tag size 40, standard fit, worked out quite well.
As far as the corduroy lining goes, i've seen it on a couple jackets over the years. I've always really liked how it looked, and it turns out it's quite comfortable and warm as well. Good luck with your hunt, it is indeed a deep rabbit hole, the bottom of which is up to you!

Thanks! It looks like a remarkably good fit on you, which is why I suspected a customized fit. Well done!


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torfjord

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2,804
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Sweden
I would opt for alpaca or corduroy lining if you want something for colder weather, but think layers for colder weather, not the jacket itself.

It does sound as if, apart from shearling, no linings from Aero are warm enough for cold temps. So if I want a jacket that’s wearable in cold temps it’s better to make sure that I can layer if I don’t want to go with shearling.

Hmm, then maybe I should just opt for the more aesthetic choice... that glengarry lining keeps looking real good.


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El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,605
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California
Maybe the quilted rayon lining has a bit of insulation to it, but I haven't seeen that firsthand to know.
I have handled a sample of the quilted rayon and there was a bit of light synthetic (thinsulate?) type insulation, not enough to make a heavy winter jacket though.
 

Worf

I'll Lock Up
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5,207
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Troy, New York, USA
With the temps outside my door currently at minus "I'll be damned" fleece lining is the ONLY way to go. Bootlegger with Alpaca maybe. Thunderbay with fleece definitely. I own one and it's one of my few winter non-military go to's.

Worf
 
Last edited:

Edward

Bartender
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25,084
Location
London, UK
As a couple of folks have already noted, the Bootlegger is based on the 50s HB pattern, which means that in terms of fit, it sits somewhere between the 30s HB and the Highwayman. FWIW, when I'm at fighting weight, I can wear a fairly thick sweater with the Highwayman in a 42, a waistcoat over a shirt or a thinner sweater with the Bootlegger in a 42, and a shirt and waistcoat in a 44 30s HB.

In terms of warm linings, I'd go all out with the shearling myself. Blanket lining is the next best thing but won't go down as low a temperature as the shearling, and the last thing you want is a short jacket which will be too warm much of the year and not warm enough for dead of Winter. In terms of sizing, I would make sure you buy a size where you can fit a submariner sweater or similar under it. Don't size up purely to accommodate the shearling lining: when you order a jacket with the shearling lining optional extra, Aero automatically size up the shell to allow for the thickness of that lining, so just think about what you want to wear under it. As ever, best results to be had by contacting Aero directly or going through Thurston, depending where in the world you are and how you want to order.

I'll be interested to see how this turns out: my first new Aero, back in 2010, was my Bootlegger (see photo). I can highly recommend cordovan - I considered cherry, but was advised (rightly) by Aero that cordo was closer the shade I wanted once made up into a jacket. If I were going to add a mouton collar, I would go with the natural 'gold' shade (or *maybe* the red one): the beauty of cordovan is its neutrality, it can be worn with both brown and black. You lose that once you put a brown or black mouton collar on it, imo.
 

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Harris HTM

One Too Many
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In the Depths of R'lyeh
Has anyone here have any experience with both a sheepskin flight jacket and a mouton lined jacket? How they differ in the cold?
I own a B-3 (http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-new-aero-b-3.91995/#post-2324342), a shearling lined LHB (http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/new-aero-long-half-belt-shearling-lined.89578/) and an Alpaca lined Mariner (http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-aero-mariner.85245/).
The B-3 is by far the warmest but also the bulkiest.
The shearling lined LHB is equally warm at the body but less warm at the sleeves (cord lined). Mine is FQHH, if you go for a shearling lined jacket go for a lighter hide, it weighs a ton and seriously feels like a steel armour.
The Alpaca is a bit warmer than a regular wool tartan but below 2-3 degrees you start freezing.
 

Gromulus

Practically Family
Messages
573
Location
NE Ohio, USA
With the temps outside my door currently at minus "I'll be damned" fleece lining is the ONLY way to you.
Worf

I concur wholeheartedly. 4 F (-15 C) air temp with wind chill at -15 F (-26 C) this morning in the snow belt capital of Ohio. Been wearing my ANJ-4 the past 1 1/2 weeks.
 

Harris HTM

One Too Many
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1,890
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In the Depths of R'lyeh
If you have experience with aero shearling/sheepskin, when does it get "too warm" to wear? +10 celcius? +5?
My B-3 cannot be worn at temperatures above 5c, and that only with a t-shirt or shirt.
Today it was 3-4 degrees here. I had a short-sleeve shirt, a thin wool sweater and my shearling lined LHB on. After 10 mins walk I had to unzip it. With only a t-shirt on you can marginally go up to 10c I think. Though here it is also windy, this is also important.
 

Thebuzzard

One of the Regulars
Messages
138
I own a B-3 (http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-new-aero-b-3.91995/#post-2324342), a shearling lined LHB (http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/new-aero-long-half-belt-shearling-lined.89578/) and an Alpaca lined Mariner (http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-aero-mariner.85245/).
The B-3 is by far the warmest but also the bulkiest.
The shearling lined LHB is equally warm at the body but less warm at the sleeves (cord lined). Mine is FQHH, if you go for a shearling lined jacket go for a lighter hide, it weighs a ton and seriously feels like a steel armour.
The Alpaca is a bit warmer than a regular wool tartan but below 2-3 degrees you start freezing.
Lol well I was thinking I would go with a cordovan plainsman with shearling liner. Also thought black goat with light colored shearling would look pretty cool. Any suggestions folks?

How is the corduroy for the arms, you don't find it grabs clothing?

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MET

A-List Customer
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310
Location
Ankara
Lol well I was thinking I would go with a cordovan plainsman with shearling liner. Also thought black goat with light colored shearling would look pretty cool. Any suggestions folks?

How is the corduroy for the arms, you don't find it grabs clothing?

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Corduroy for the arms may be a good choice but the cord is stiff in the beginning and might restrict your arm movements a little. It does not grab the under clothing. You may also consider moleskin, alpaca or fleck tweed for the arms. I would choose moleskin if I were you.

Cordovan steerhide or horsehide, both are fine choices. But when lined with shearling the plainsman will be heavy. If that is not a concern I would prefer cordovan heavy cxl steerhide. IMHO black goat lacks character and would not age as beatifully as the heavy hides. If you want something lighter dark seal jerky horsehide is over there.
 

Fanch

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4,490
Location
Texas
Moleskin is a great body shell lining which is what I used for my Teamster and can layer underneath that with a Filson moleskin or wool Mackinaw vest if needed. Any colder brings out my Filson 24oz Mackinaw Cruiser.
 

torfjord

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2,804
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Sweden
Thanks for all your assistance in getting this right. I’ve put in my order with Aero now and the wait begins.

I decided to go with Cordovan steerhide, Irvin collar and Glengarry tweed lining. Size should allow for medium thick sweater under the jacket. This should make it warm enough for most of winter in the part of Sweden where I live.

After ordering I also decided on two mods that I would like to have. Deleted epaulets and a bi-swing back (like the teamster or moonshiner back). I just emailed Aero today to ask if that would be possible.


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torfjord

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2,804
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Sweden
Thanks again to all who posted in this thread. Just wanted to update with some news. Aero was quicker than usual, and my bootlegger that I ordered January 10 is shipping out today. So excited! I managed to almost forget about it after placing my order, but now I feel like a nervous wreck in anticipation of the jacket.
Will the mods work? Will it fit the way I want it? Well, guess we’ll find out in about two days...


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Mark

Practically Family
Messages
638
Location
UK
Here's a Thunderbay with a natural collar, this would be my choice if I didn't also already have ten leather jackets (there might be more, I'm too afraid to count them). I'd go for shearling lined and size up, I don't think alpaca or tweed would do the job at -5.

That Thunderbay and beautiful Triumph just blew me away! So much so i have put you in my "favourites" list for future gloating:D
 

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