Bookster Three Piece Tweed

[MK]

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Is there are a case for starting a new thread on vintage tweed, perhaps on General Attire and Accoutrements?

Excellent idea. Can you start one with some photos? I would love to see some.

 

[AlanC]

I know this is likely not of great interest to the folks here at FL, but there are also some early stage talks with Peter about doing tweeds up in a traditional American Ivy League pattern a la Brooks/J Press/Southwick/Norman Hilton via the Trad forum at Ask Andy. I sent Peter an older Norman Hilton 3/2 button sack as a model. Hilton was a maker of particularly high quality, and their coats also tended to have more shape to them than some imagine in a 'sack' cut. It is a traditional American design with a venerable pedigree. The more options the better.

 

[Feraud]

I think that some of the tweed discussions above go beyond someone wanting to buy a suit. Is there are a case for starting a new thread on vintage tweed, perhaps on General Attire and Accoutrements?

Alan

Absolutely!

I know this is likely not of great interest to the folks here at FL, but there are also some early stage talks with Peter about doing tweeds up in a traditional American Ivy League pattern a la Brooks/J Press/Southwick/Norman Hilton via the Trad forum at Ask Andy. I sent Peter an older Norman Hilton 3/2 button sack as a model. Hilton was a maker of particularly high quality, and their coats also tended to have more shape to them than some imagine in a 'sack' cut. It is a traditional American design with a venerable pedigree. The more options the better.

I think there could be interest. There seem to be a good number of folks who appreciate the tweed and have not gone the vintage route.

 

[Alan Eardley]

Excellent idea. Can you start one with some photos? I would love to see some.

Thanks MK, but I think there are people on the forum who are much more knowledgeable on tweed than I am and probably much more willing to post photographs.

If someone else starts the thread, I'll willingly add such factual comments as I am able.

Alan

 

[Matt Deckard]

Awesome MK... very nice of Bookster to lend to see. I like the color on you as well even though you may not think it the best for your likings when it comes to colors. Overall it looks good when you consider the sizing down that would have to be done. For the price I believe the suit to be a hit, and with a much higher cut armhole I think it will sell like hot-cakes with this audience.

I saw the pics of the pants fit, but the others haven't... how about showing those pics here as well so people can see the hight of the waist and the cut of the legs... I'd go a little higher on the waist though I'm the acception as I like ultra high. he leg cut looks roomy enough to give a good balance to the cut of the jacket.

 

[cookie]

Vintage Irish and British tweed jackets generally have small. well-fitted armholes. often reinforced by some form of articulation such as a gusset or 'action back'. The reverse is a recent phenomenon and is to be resisted.

I think that some of the tweed discussions above go beyond someone wanting to buy a suit. Is there are a case for starting a new thread on vintage tweed, perhaps on General Attire and Accoutrements?

Alan

Yes Alan - all of the above old chap!:eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[MK]

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I saw the pics of the pants fit, but the others haven't... how about showing those pics here as well so people can see the hight of the waist and the cut of the legs... I'd go a little higher on the waist though I'm the acception as I like ultra high. he leg cut looks roomy enough to give a good balance to the cut of the jacket.

Ohhhh....ok.

Remember the break looks all wrong because I have tried to roll up the excess length inside.

Since I am at it....here are better photos of the vest with the back strap properly done.

The strap is made of satin or some other slick cloth that makes it prone to slippage. To my eye it would be better if the strap were further down the vest. Or perhaps the vest should be a bit longer. Thoughts?

 

[Alan Eardley]

MK,

As I see it (as a regular wearer of this style) the suit's just too big for you. The trousers on such a suit should be slim in their cut and close fitting, as they are derived from horseback wear.

Also, I don't think the waistcoat is too long - it gets its name from the fact that it falls to the waist. In your example it should be much trimmer and fitted around the waist with no 'overhang'. I think it would benefit frm being an inch or two shorter as well.

Going down one or two inch sizes would make a big difference to the fit.

Just my opinion, and not wishing to 'pass judgement'.

Alan

 

[thunderw21]

I really like the color of the vest backing. Really stands out!

 

[Feraud]

The trousers on such a suit should be slim in their cut and close fitting, as they are derived from horseback wear.

Would this be to keep from getting snagged on branches and such?

 

[Alan Eardley]

Perhaps. It's how they were worn at the time the style developed. This style of tweed suit is decidedly 'country' and has its roots in work wear that became sporting wear. Having it cut like a lounge suit is, IMO, a mistake.

Alan

 

[Matt Deckard]

True, the suit is just too big though the cut is okay and in the right size I think it will look great.

As for the trousers needing to be narrow, I'm an American and we wear our tweed legs wide.

 

[Micawber]

Perhaps. It's how they were worn at the time the style developed. This style of tweed suit is decidedly 'country' and has its roots in work wear that became sporting wear. Having it cut like a lounge suit is, IMO, a mistake.

Alan

Spot on.

 

[Alan Eardley]

I guess there's some confusion here as to whether this is an American or British style suit.

Alan

 

[Feraud]

Perhaps. It's how they were worn at the time the style developed. This style of tweed suit is decidedly 'country' and has its roots in work wear that became sporting wear. Having it cut like a lounge suit is, IMO, a mistake.

Alan

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[Jovan]

I have to agree with Alan. I might be biased as I like the looks of the '60s, but I think the suit would work a bit better if it were a tad trimmer in its lines. It seems like a lounge suit, just with a throat latch. [huh]

 

[Micawber]

I have to agree with Alan. I might be biased as I like the looks of the '60s, but I think the suit would work a bit better if it were a tad trimmer in its lines. It seems like a lounge suit, just with a throat latch. [huh]

Agreed, it I would prefer to see it more waisted but as has already been said the oversize does not help with the impression.

Centre vent, hacking (slant) & ticket pockets, throat latch and material all point to it being a country suit with a sporting / equine flavour. An 'action back' or belows shoulders or upper centre seam would move it toward shooting.

 

[MK]

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A trimmer cut might look better...if I were trimmer. If the legs were narrower it would emphasize my round mid section.

 

[MK]

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My goal is not looking like an English country squire. This is more on target.

 

[bookster1uk]

Bookster Suiting

A trimmer cut might look better...if I were trimmer. If the legs were narrower it would emphasize my round mid section.

Time to add a few words I think, the quote above gives some emphasis to the manly proportions of the majority of our customers. Though we aren't true bespoke, we are able to cater for a wider range of tastes and needs than many. The standard trouser cut, as seen, is highly popular, the feedback we get is all we could wish. That said, we have a distinguished customer in NM who likes far wider all over, we have made him his own pattern for a modest price. ( nearly bespoke....), we can adjust the basic pattern within reasonable bounds for a small extra fee, so narrower is possible too. On the subject of 'the bookster jacket', we can make it extra narrow at the waist ( popular in Japan) , or wider, but the 'standard cut is already too narrow for the majority, who choose our 'comfort waist option. We do our very best to be all things to all people, but have to work from a standardised range for obvious reasons. Some already find our range of options a little overwhelming (excluding FL members!)
In regard to the armhole size, we are talking about a new jacket model/pattern, its no good fiddling about,and I'm up for it, but it will take a little time, I start work on it next week.
The 'Sack' Jacket is also on the agenda, as well as other designs, we can't rush it all through though, its quite a committment , and those that know us appreciate that we like to get things right.
Regarding previous comments, Bladen jackets are great, but they retail at between $600 -$700 in the UK, and are now made in Mauritius, despite the Made in England tag, I may be old fashioned, but that matters to me, we want ours to be made here. Finding a Bladen or John G Hardy in a thrift shop is becoming a less likely, and in the USA they must be harder to find than hens teeth, so we hope our pricing will put some finery (not just tweed) within reach of those of us on limited budgets.
Gurteen and Brook Taverner mass produce jackets, and I would like to think that what we offer is in a different league, yet ours are little if any more than some of their offerings , we offer all our personal sizing +other options + an enviable range of cloths that we are still adding to.
I can't tell you how much we enjoy participating in, and learning from FL and Ask Andy. I am particularly grateful to MK for his interest and encouragement.
Hopefully over time we can offer some really interesting items at good prices , that you won't find anywhere else, now.....back to MK's suit......
Best wishes to all, Peter