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Boater faction!

bassfiddlesteve

New in Town
Messages
7
Location
Florida
Greetings, this is my first post here on FL.

I recently become interested in straw boaters as I play bass in a six-piece vintage jazz band and this type of hat is often associated with "Dixieland" bands. I see it as a great way to merge my musical endeavors with my fondness for hats (I own several fedoras and a few flatcaps).

I obtained my first boater, a Capas Panama, when the band played an election-themed event in 2012. The people running the event gave us the hats to wear during the gig and let us keep them when we were done...very generous considering that they retail for $125. I've since learned that this hat, while of nice quality, is not a "true" boater. The pianist and I have worn them to nearly every gig they have become slightly misshapen, his with a bulging crown and mine with a drooping brim.

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My efforts to obtain a "real" vintage boater have been hampered by the fact that I wear a size 7 1/2 and most vintage ones are much smaller. Luckily, I found an Olney boater in my size on eBay and was the high bidder at $15! You know that's a steal if you've ever priced having one shipped over from the UK where they are made and typically sold. The Olney hat, seen in my avatar pic, is much more like a vintage boater in both it's stiffness and proportions (shorter crown and wider brim) and the black ribbon is a nice change from the more common red and blue stripes.

I recently obtained a used Ponte Rialto boater in my size. Though these are still being manufactured, this one is an older hat made for Jos. A. Banks and the straw has taken on a nice golden color, similar to the Olney. To my eyes, this hat has the classic proportions and the faded red and blue ribbon, while not as historically accurate, looks good in the context of a jazz band playing at a "Great Gatsby" or "Roaring 20's" themed party.

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- Steve
 
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PADDY

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
7,425
Location
METROPOLIS OF EUROPA
You cannot see it, but the liner is a 'floating' liner (gap between it and the roof of the lid) that allows the air to flow around your melon! Simple & effective.

View attachment 35103

There's also netting around the edge which lets the air flow get around your 'air ship' head to keep it well 'air conditioned.' All very well thought out! YES...the ribbon is the nicest I have seen in a long, long time. A heavy cotton fabric that really has a great 'bold' look to it! suits me to a tee!!
 

besdor

Vendor/Sponsor
Messages
1,727
Location
up north
I was surprised to find out that Olney still makes a boater hat. I was under the impression that Florence was the last manufacturer of them. The ones made in the USA are too flimsy .
 

bassfiddlesteve

New in Town
Messages
7
Location
Florida
I was surprised to find out that Olney still makes a boater hat. I was under the impression that Florence was the last manufacturer of them. The ones made in the USA are too flimsy .

The Ponte Rialto boaters are still being made in Venice and imported by Capas. These are sold through Village Hat Shop. DelMonico says their boater is the same hat, and I suspect the Tesi brand boaters sold by a few retailers is also the same hat. I'm not familiar with the Florence boater.

The US boaters likes the ones made Dorfman Pacific/Scala, Ultrafino and Jaxon are indeed flimsier, but you get what you pay for. The Scala and Capas Panama boaters aren't cheap, but these are lightweight by design.

- Steve
 
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jjdesch

New in Town
Messages
1
Location
NY
3 questions: I will going to my niece's 'black tie optional' Vermont wedding in June. It sounds like it will be an extragavent affair, complete with "lawn games" during the cocktail hour. i will be wearing a black tux, and was wondering if a boater would be appropriate in this venue. Also, how high should a boater sit above you ears? I have have gone through many of the posts here on this thread, and see many examples, some with the brim just above the ears, some wearing it quite high. I guess it becomes a question of sizing. In the submitted photo's, the smaller brim straw I think is definitively from the 1920's judging by the art -deco liner. It is 7 1/8 (my normal size) but it seems tight and sits high. The other wider brimmed version was a 7 1/2 that I had to add some padding to (and is quite comfortable now) - I am not sure how old this one is. Finally, what is the best way to clean and perhaps lighten these old straws?
 

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Messages
470
Location
North Wales Uk
3 questions: I will going to my niece's 'black tie optional' Vermont wedding in June. It sounds like it will be an extragavent affair, complete with "lawn games" during the cocktail hour. i will be wearing a black tux, and was wondering if a boater would be appropriate in this venue. Also, how high should a boater sit above you ears? I have have gone through many of the posts here on this thread, and see many examples, some with the brim just above the ears, some wearing it quite high. I guess it becomes a question of sizing. In the submitted photo's, the smaller brim straw I think is definitively from the 1920's judging by the art -deco liner. It is 7 1/8 (my normal size) but it seems tight and sits high. The other wider brimmed version was a 7 1/2 that I had to add some padding to (and is quite comfortable now) - I am not sure how old this one is. Finally, what is the best way to clean and perhaps lighten these old straws?

Hi there, boaters are traditionally worn high, higher than a fedora say, the one in your pic is a little to high though looks too small, the last pic is much better but please dont tip it back, men look ridiculous with boaters worn in that way, level or slightly forward is correct and yes I think one could wear this for a lawn wedding party xx
VM
 
Messages
17,477
Location
Maryland
Societa Anonima E. Meucci, Fabbrica di Cappelli di Paglia, Lastra a Signa (Firenze / Florence ) catalog and company prospectus ( probably early 1900s) from the Gotisches Haus (Gothic House) Bad Homburg, Germany hat collection. Lastra a Signa was the birth place of Western straw plait and the plaited straw hat (for example the Boater) production. This is a really fantastic document!

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...di-cappelli-di-paglia-lastra-a-signa-firenze/
 
Messages
15,077
Location
Buffalo, NY
A boater sold from Max Leopold Men's Store, Greensburg, PA. No meaningful tags or marks found - the store appears to have been in existence prior to WWI - I suspect this hat is from the early 20th century. The weave is remarkable, with similarities to a couple of the straw boaters from the collection of the Deutsches Hutmuseum Kulturfabrik posted just above by Steve. Soft and pliable, it is not a lightweight by any means at 7.7 ounces. The bronze color of the straw and the yellow/green of the liner are shown accurately in the photos.

leopoldboater2.jpg


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Genuine Classic Gangster

One of the Regulars
Messages
163
Location
Canada
I have some questions for the Boater faction:

1. As far as I can tell, most of the custom hatters around today, who offer other kinds of high quality new straws hats, do not also offer boater hats. What are some of the reasons why they do not bother to offer boater hats?

2. Do any custom hatters exist who make high quality new boater hats today? If so, which hatters would those be?
 
Messages
17,477
Location
Maryland
This Swiss hatter makes Yeddo (Röhrlihüte) style Boaters. I have no idea of the quality.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...yeddo-roehrlihuete-style-boaters-kurt-wismer/

The modern pressed Boaters I have seen do not hold a candle to the old ones. Also I haven't seen anything like the softer fancy weaves like Alan posted above.

You may want to check out these links to see what is behind making such hats.

Deutsches Hutmuseum Kulturfabrik, Lindenberg, Germany (this area produced Straw Boater style hats)

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...es-hutmuseum-kulturfabrik-lindenberg-germany/

Mayser-Milz & Cie. "Exotenstumpen und Strohgeflechte Für Herren Sommerhüte / Exotic Straw Hoods and Straw Braids for Men's Summer Hats" (this is probably pre 1940)

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/237-mayser-milz-cie-exotenstumpen-und-strohgeflechte-für-herren-sommerhüte-exotic-straw-hoods-and-straw-braids-for-mens-summer-hats/
 
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Tonio

A-List Customer
Messages
445
Today at an antique store I found myself happily indecisive as I came across 3 vintage boaters (Knox, Wormser, Bentley) in my size.

My attention went to the familiar names Knox and Wormser, but they were too large to wear comfortably and had their share of condition issues. I'd never heard of Bentley and it did appear to be newer than the rest, but the fit was so comfortable. The size tag reads: "7-1/4 Tuells Hats".

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