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Black Tie waist covering?

brendond

New in Town
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41
Location
southampton
Hi i have a dinner dance next weekend which is black tie optional. my question is i have a marcella front shirt with detachable wing collar , is it ok to wear with just braces and no waist covering . I dont like cummerbands and dont own one and the black waistcoats i own are not a good fit at all. only other option is to go for just a normal suit and tie . i dont think many will be in black tie . thanks in advance for your help.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
The only exception to the 'rule' requiring the wearing of a vest/waistcoat or cumerbund is if the jacket is double breasted. Is your dinner jacket double breasted?
 

F. J.

One of the Regulars
Messages
221
Location
The Magnolia State
Cover that waist!

Mr. brendond,

Wearing black tie without a waist covering is a major faux pas. However, a sharp alternative to the conventional black is a white waistcoat, much as one would wear with full dress. You can see Mr. Cary Grant so attired at the link at the end of this post.

I am by no means affiliated with the site, but the Black Tie Guide is perhaps the definitive Internet resource for the conventions surrounding formal dress. Everything you ever wanted to know about the history and current trends of White Tie, Black Tie, Morning Dress, &c., can be found there. A good starting place for you might be the article "Classic Waistcoats and Cummerbunds".

I hope you find this helpful.
Sincerely,
 

Guttersnipe

One Too Many
Messages
1,942
Location
San Francisco, CA
A.C. and F.J. are indeed correct. However, these days lots of men wear semi-formal rigs without a vest or cummerbund, so you could do that if you like. Clooney and Craig look pretty snazzy sans waist coverings here:

clooneytux8_crop3.jpg


craig_justjared.jpg
 

brendond

New in Town
Messages
41
Location
southampton
A.C. and F.J. are indeed correct. However, these days lots of men wear semi-formal rigs without a vest or cummerbund, so you could do that if you like. Clooney and Craig look pretty snazzy sans waist coverings here:

clooneytux8_crop3.jpg


craig_justjared.jpg

thank you every one for all your help a waistcoat is a no go as the 2 i own dont fit well so i think i might just go for a normal suit.
 

F. J.

One of the Regulars
Messages
221
Location
The Magnolia State
Hmmm . . .

A.C. and F.J. are indeed correct. However, these days lots of men wear semi-formal rigs without a vest or cummerbund, so you could do that if you like. Clooney and Craig look pretty snazzy sans waist coverings here:

[IMAGES REDACTED FOR CONCISION.]

I would like to point out that both of the gentlemen pictured are wearing bottoned jackets. Both very possibly are wearing either cummerbunds or low-cut waistcoats that are not currently visible, but would be when either unbuttoned his jacket to sit down.

Also, most men aren't "cut out" to be sans waist covering. It simply looks funny on them, unless they never unbutton the jacket.
 

Guttersnipe

One Too Many
Messages
1,942
Location
San Francisco, CA
Nope. What they're both wearing is modern tuxedos that feature waistbands faced in satin. It's a streamlined look that became a "thing" in the '60s.

george_clooney_and_matt_damon.jpg


daniel-craig-2009-oscars20.jpg


But I agree that semi-formal without a vest or cummerbund looks odd . . .
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
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13,719
Location
USA
tuxedos that feature waistbands faced in satin .
My uncle had tuxedo trousers with a cummerbund built into the waistband. They were high waisted with a drop-down front. I think they were made by Pucci, a Chicago tailor.
 

SteveAS

Practically Family
Messages
841
Location
San Francisco

This picture of George Clooney brings to mind a personal pet peeve: dressing (semi-) formally, with mussed hair and a few days' beard growth. That look may be de riguer on a camping trip or a tropical vacation, but just seems way out of place on a dressy evening.
 

RegentSt1965

Familiar Face
Messages
99
Location
London
Nowadays, for most black_tie events in the UK (thankfully there appears to be reversal of their recent sad decline) a cummerbund feels redundant and a trifle once_a_yearish. I haven't worn one for quite a while now. They seem to worn here by the hire it/haven't worn the suit for years crowd. Main thing is, of course to tie ones own bow, and as a strong personal preference I eschew the wing collar.
 

avedwards

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,425
Location
London and Midlands, UK
If you don't unbutton the jacket at all (even when seated) it would be acceptable not to wear a waist covering. However, if you are wearing a single breasted jacket it must be very well cut to avoid draping badly when seated.
 

Corky

Practically Family
Messages
507
Location
West Los Angeles
This picture of George Clooney brings to mind a personal pet peeve: dressing (semi-) formally, with mussed hair and a few days' beard growth. That look may be de riguer on a camping trip or a tropical vacation, but just seems way out of place on a dressy evening.

George Clooney (as a working member of the Screen Actors Guild) might be in the process of shooting a film in which his character requires mussed hair and a certain growth of beard.

Remember when Natalie Portman looked like this:

natalie-portman-bald-photo-posh24-i5qutxvb.jpg
 

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
Reason why I prefer DB tuxes. No fussing around with either cummerbunds, waistcoats, stiff shirts or wing-collars.
 

Midnight Blue

One of the Regulars
Messages
132
Location
Toronto, Canada
This is why you don't skip the waist covering with black tie:

2013_brooks_brothers_regent_crop.jpg
2012_rlbl_anthony_tuxedo.jpg
freddiehighmoregetty.jpg
2013gg_jackman_zimbio_com.jpg
damian_lewis_getty_gallo.jpg

That exposed patch of shirt navel is essentially the formal equivalent of plumber's crack.
 

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SteveAS

Practically Family
Messages
841
Location
San Francisco
This is why you don't skip the waist covering with black tie:

That exposed patch of shirt navel is essentially the formal equivalent of plumber's crack.

Hear, hear! :eusa_clap

Incidentally, the little woman and I watched the Fashion Police coverage of the Grammys and not one of the critics said a word about the lack of waist covering on most of the dinner suit wearing men. [huh]
 

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