Birth of the Beltback: 1910s

[Dinerman]

The belt back suit as we know it was an evolution from the full-belted norfolk suit. By the 1910s, this sporty style had started to shed its full belt and shoulder straps. The belt-back or pinch-back jacket started out as a young man's "novelty" fashion, designed for casual and summer wear. As the 1910s wore on, the style became more popular, making its way into less casual suitings. The style peaked post-WWI and remained popular through until WWII.

Below are illustrations based on models displayed at style shows of the "International Association of Clothing Designers", reproduced in various issues of "The Clothier and Furnisher", 1914-1919, showing the beginnings of the belted back style.

1914


1915


1916


1916


1917


1917

 

[Dinerman]

1919


1919


1919


1919


1919


1919


1919


1919


1919

 

[herringbonekid]

great !

lots of high gorges there for people who think the high gorge is a modern invention.
i don't think many of these styles will appeal to most on here, but they really go to show what a period of experimentation the teens were.

 

[Dinerman]

Really every pocket configuration, button stance, lapel width and back detail imaginable.
By the '30s, the style was already 20 years old and on its way out.

 

[herringbonekid]

so much to think about in these designs.

are these all Stein-Bloch ? some of them look similar to the 'Clothier and Furnisher' illustrations you posted a while ago.

 

[Dinerman]

All kinds of different makers, all from Clothier.

 

[herringbonekid]

the 'Clothier and Furnisher' was a trade journal, and if these were shown at style shows do you think many of these designs never made it to production and remained, what we would call today, samples ?

 

[Dinerman]

There are enough referenced back in the ads in the journal that I think many did make it to production. Impossible to say for sure how many, though.

 

[thunderw21]

So many neat designs from which to choose. Dual breast pockets, interesting lapels, half belts, full belts, etc. So many styles that are ignored nowadays.

 

[Hyena Stomp]

Pure eye candy! There's something interesting to notice in every single one of those. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Benny Holiday]

Thanks Dinerman! Very informative!

 

[Chasseur]

Many thanks Dinnerman!

I've mentioned this question before but I thought I might try again on this thread: When do the action pleats come in? I have looked at many photos of shooting parties in the UK (and US and France) from 1880s-1950s. While I've seen many Norfolk and belted back shooting and sportcoats on people in the photos I've never seen action pleats before 1920 or so.

Thanks!

 

[DamianM]

http://oldmagazinearticles.com/draw_pdf.php?filename=1915.pdf

teens article on shopping for the well dressed man featuring a belt back

 

[Matt Deckard]

Good job Dinerman! and over 100 years later I'm still wearing one!

 

[Barmey]

Love these high 2 button DB styles. Something the tailoring world should definately revive

 

[herringbonekid]

Barmey, i've been eyeing those DB styles too. my only concern is the possible 60s connotations that might arise when it's coupled with narrow 20s trousers.
not that it should matter what others think; but what if i look in the mirror and also see 60s ? :eeek:

 

[Barmey]

I think it's all about little features. I havn't seen many examples of 60s DB suits with cuffed bottoms, a beltback, and two button closure.

Just avoid this:
http://www.mendozamenswear.com/?p=4783

 

[DamianM]

I think it's all about little features. I havn't seen many examples of 60s DB suits with cuffed bottoms, a beltback, and two button closure.

Just avoid this:
http://www.mendozamenswear.com/?p=4783

avoid it like the plague!

that is gross

 

[herringbonekid]

avoid, with extreme prejudice.

btw, what's the correct tailoring terminology for the DB 'overlap' ?

 

[Barmey]

I think 'wrap' is the correct term.

So very small wrap on early 20s suits with a high and close buttoning.