Bill Kelso Aeronaut A-1 or Aero Aeromarine

[Sloan1874]

I'm told those collars are murder to get right (go and ask ALlol). Add all the button detail and you've got a lot of work there. Certainly worth it, though, beautiful jacket.

 

[Jeff M]

Apparently so.
Mark made several canvas shell prototypes, and ended up making the collar smaller than on his earlier versions.

 

[rus1980]

Mark wrote me tonight and told me that he isn't making the original Cossack design at the moment. He said he might make it at some point in the future.

 

[Jeff M]

Better not offer it again before the M1941. I have dibs on that. :boxing:

 

[pauleway]

I'm told those collars are murder to get right (go and ask ALlol). Add all the button detail and you've got a lot of work there. Certainly worth it, though, beautiful jacket.

I don't know if you have seen the AL Simmons-Bilt jacket lately, but their version of this jacket, and the collar they re-styled for this jacket look as good, or better than any other company making this type of jacket!!

 

[ausreenactor]

Mark wrote me tonight and told me that he isn't making the original Cossack design at the moment. He said he might make it at some point in the future.

Such a tease..

 

[delectans]

Mark Fisher-NorShor Cossack Prototype

For additional reference, Mark's prototype 'Cossack', in mid-weight American horsehide. Close-fitting design with a beautifully executed shawl collar. Extremely labor intensive but wonderfully detailed buttonholes.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Another nice jacket and great fit...but personally..I prefer the collar on Jeff's jacket. Unique. Something different than what is normally being copied and put out there yet still very stylish IMO.
HD

 

[Edward]

Really fantastic to see the rise in popularity of this style - not so long ago it was only Himmel and I think a couple of the ultra high-end Japanese makers doing them. With no disrespect intended to any of those, it's great to see it come down to a priceband that is more realistic for many of us. Mark's run on it is lovely looking. Is it neater fitting than the others? I had the impression the Aero pattern is cut - not boxy, but a less form-fitting jacket, more like an A2 than a 30s Halfbelt, for example. I'm very torn between the two pocket styles Aero offer.... Much as I like the blue of MajorMajor's jacket, I'm not sure I really see myself in it. Now, cordovan, on the other hand.... (I'm especially keen on the idea of one with cordovan leather sleeves / collar / accents and a matching-colour, heavy wool body...). I also love the light colour, deerskin-imitating midweight horse in the ivory colour.... I think one day I may have to have one of this style of jacket in each pocket option....

 

[pipvh]

If you look at Mark's FB page he has an illustration from an early catalogue - https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...366.1073741828.273183072821929&type=1&theater. Those early jackets were cut very loose, and surprisingly long.

 

[delectans]

It bears keeping in mind that there is no single, iconic "Cossack" jacket design. All manner of collar styles, lengths, tailoring, and materials were seen, in a variety of different applications.

See Spencer's excellent treatise on the evolution of leather jackets in the 1920s, and his specific discussion of the "Cossack Jacket" in David Himel's 'The Art Of Vintage Leather Jackets' blog, as well as his astute observations on design variation.

 

[handymike]

You jacket is beautiful! I love the color and buttons....
Lucky you got in....

 

[Jeff M]

For additional reference, Mark's prototype 'Cossack', in mid-weight American horsehide. Close-fitting design with a beautifully executed shawl collar. Extremely labor intensive but wonderfully detailed buttonholes.

I've never seen this one before. Another great looking jacket! Fit looks perfect.
If I am not mistaken, it is made out of the same hide as the "Shawl collar A2" Mark made for me some time back;

He and John Chapman (Good Wear Leather) shared a shipment, John designating it "LHJ103".

One of my favorite horse hides. Mid weight, soft hand, wearing in very nicely.
Some photos of a Good Wear made out of this leather with a bit more wear owned by a member of the VLJ forum;

 

[Edward]

That's an interestinh spin on the A2! I like it a lot. Was it based on a specific vintage jacket, or just an idea? I've grown to find those civilian variations on the A2 theme from back in the day as interesting as the A2 itself.

 

[Jeff M]

That's an interestinh spin on the A2! I like it a lot. Was it based on a specific vintage jacket, or just an idea? I've grown to find those civilian variations on the A2 theme from back in the day as interesting as the A2 itself.

I got the idea from some photos I'd seen of jackets worn by Lindberg and Jimmy Stewart;

Ran it by Mark, came up with this;





More elongated tapered collar, knit sleeves and waist.

 

[bretron]

I absolutely love Mark's work, and especially dig on the Shinki hide, but to me his collar needs a bit more width. Just a wee bit too narrow for my taste. My vote in this category would be an Aeromarine in the steer hide sourced from Insurrection (some tannery down in Cali). Most amazing grain I've ever seen. Tho I do really like the collar tab and repro H&L Block label on the BK... Thankfully for me I'm broke :lol:

 

[Jeff M]

Yeah, the collars on these can be tricky from a design standpoint.
Something on the slender side would look very odd if the wearer has a large head, and vice versa.
Different strokes for different folks.

 

[theundeadkennedy]

[/QUOTE]

This is definitely my favorite example of a Cossack style jacket. Very neat fit. Perfect!

 

[delectans]

Thanks for the nod, HD, handymike, Jeff, theundeadkennedy.

If I am not mistaken, it is made out of the same hide as the "Shawl collar A2" Mark made for me some time back[...]He and John Chapman (Good Wear Leather) shared a shipment, John designating it "LHJ103".

One of my favorite horse hides. Mid weight, soft hand, wearing in very nicely.

Great looking jacket(and lid)...and good eye, Jeff! I only wish Mark could source more of this terrific American horsehide.

I absolutely love Mark's work, and especially dig on the Shinki hide, but to me his collar needs a bit more width. Just a wee bit too narrow for my taste.

Mark designed these collars to be easily worn turned-up if desired, as was commonly done historically. They may appear from photos to be too narrow, but any wider and they would look ungainly and gauche when worn turned-up, in my opinion.

 

[rus1980]

Alright gentlemen,

I have decided to go with a Bill Kelso Aeronaut A-1. I have asked for the following measurements:

Aeronaut A-1 custom size 45
----------------------------
pit to pit 24.5
shoulders 19.75
back 24.75
sleeve 26

My chest measures 113-115 cm. So he told me to go with a custom 45. I also asked to have the sleeves a little longer. He initially recommended 25.75 inches in the sleeve. I was worried that would be too short.

I'm going to ask for a red cotton lining.

Now, here is the part where I still need to decide. They don't have any horsehide leather in stock right now, and it may be awhile before my order would be filled if I ask for horsehide. (I like horsehide).

They do have an abundance of Baladassi dark seal cowhide and capeskin leathers. I want a darker jacket. I realize that this is a matter of taste, but I've never had either of these types of leather before. There is also a sale 15% if I buy tomorrow in one of these leathers (I like this).

They have Baladassi dark seal cowhide, seal brown capeskin, and they might have some russet capeskin left. They also said they could do black, but didn't say what leather that was in (but, did mention that it wouldn't be as nice as the Badalassi).

What do you guys think?

Rus