Bespoke military uniforms?

[Trotsky]

You know, I love a uniform story:

I picked up a Size 48, yes, 48, Ike Jacket. It was a WWII original that had been tailored to the 1948 style, a little shorter in the body and a few other, minor, changes. I paid practically nothing for it and it is a very interesting piece. Judging from prices I could seemingly fetch a pretty penny for it too. I find it amusing that some guy had his jacket tailored down to the newer design rather than just pick a new one up, or not even bother. He must have liked the fashion.

I also have a RCN Reefer Jacket, size 44 or so, tailored by Gieves and Hawkes. It is a post-war and badged to a Commander with a WWII service record. Absolutely beautiful heavy black wool dress coat, possibly one of the most beautiful uniforms I own. I looked up the fellow who owned it; he died in 2000 or so with the rank of Captain.

I have pictures on my hard drive somewhere of a M41 field jacket tailored from Officer's grade dress wool in Chocolate. I wish I could get my hands on a copy to wear because it looks damn sharp.

 

[Diamondback]

Otium, you might take a look at http://usmedals.com/ if you haven't already.

 

[Vintage Betty]

Not that the following comment is worth much in contributing to this thread, but I went to college with a man who had all his uniforms altered to fit. Note this wasn't bespoke, but was modern day alteration.

Vintage Betty

 

[Otium]

Medals

Diamondback, checked out that before. It offers pretty much the same stuff you can get on base at slightly more cost. It isn't bad, just not quite what I was after. I'm looking for warfare and rank devices and such in solid gold rather than just plated base metal. My only option is having it custom made at a jeweler for an outrageous price. Maybe not outrageous, but I'd rather spend that much towards suits.

 

[sean138]

Hello, I had Army Dress Blues tailor made in Kabul, Afghanistan back in 2005. They did a very nice job. Wool instead of that poly crap that the Army dress uniforms have been made of lately. I think, traditionally, officers in the US Army had uniforms made to order until the era of the ugly green Class A uniform. The majority of uniforms I saw were off the rack and altered. I do know that a few people did have dress greens tailor made in Korea, back in the 80's and 90's. The new Army blue dress uniform is a huge improvement over the pickle suit!
Sean

 

[Alex Oviatt]

I once went to a murder mystery party and was told to come as a military officer. I went to a local vintage military store in Santa Monica, hoping I could find a cheap hat or something to wear to the party. Instead, I bought an WW II RAF officer's uniform that fit me like a glove--scary how well it fits. It is from Gieves & Hawkes, and I often thought of researching the person for whom it was made--his name and the date are on the tailor's label--since he and I were so similar in size. Long gone now, I'm sure. Cost lots more than I had thought to spend but worth it--it is beautifully made, as a Savile Row bespoke suit/uniform should be.

I take it all back--I just checked the label and it is by Bernard Whetherhill of Conduit Street, a classic Savile Row tailor although not actually on the row. The Gieves & Hawkes I was thinking of is a tuxedo I found at Oxfam for a tenner--fantastic style, but such heavy fabric that I can rarely wear it. I had my tailor copy it exactly but in lighter fabric (tropical weight crepe) and it is now my favorite. Interestingly, it does not have satin stripes down the legs--in fact no satin at all--the lapels are black silk grosgrain and the buttons are regular black suit buttons. When the Brits get it right, they really get it right.

 

[Micawber]

Bernard Wetherill, makers of exceptionally good hunting and sporting attire.

 

[Tango Yankee]

As an observer, I see that the various branches of our armed services seem to be constantly occupied with the idea of changes to the uniform. Sometimes it's good, though it seems things invariably careen off into an awkward direction.

It does seem as though the uniforms were modified and tweaked on a regular basis, adding and deleting various items over the years (I'm talking AF now as that's what I know.) It really took off with General McPeak (the AF Chief of Staff in the early '90s) and his moves to change almost everything uniform-wise. It's amazing what that sort of thing (messing with the uniforms) can do to morale, especially when it's teamed up with a massive drawdown that meant many who expected to do full careers in the AF faced choices like voluntarily take the money offered and get out or risk being kicked out with nothing. McPeak gave us the "airline pilot" style service dress, took rank insignia off the BDUs and put the officer's rank on the service dress on the sleeves like the Navy, changed the enlisted rank insignia, did away with the rank of Sergeant, and more. One of the first thing his successor did was put the rank and US Air Force and name tapes back on the BDUs.

Just before the AF changed from fatigues to BDUs I read two articles in the same Air Force Times issue. One was an interview with the Chief Master Sergeant of the Air Force who said that the AF was in the process of developing a new "Air Force specific" utility uniform to replace the fatigues. The other was an announcement that the AF was adopting the Army's BDU as it's new utility uniform. I guess the AF-specific part was where we put USAF tapes on the uniform instead of US Army! lol (Legend has it that the AF was forced to go to the BDU due to a clerical error in an Army order for BDUs--too many zeros in the number of uniforms to be bought under a procurement contract. I doubt that it's true, but of course as an AF guy I had to say "It figures!" lol )

And now the AF is in the process of changing to a truly AF-unique utility uniform. A new service dress uniform was in the works, but I've not been able to find anything recent on the subject. The new uniform is supposed to be a "return to the classic look of the Hap Arnold-era uniform, but with a modern twist."

Well... looks like I got carried away.

Regards,
Tom

 

[FredCarter]

My understanding is that at one time it was not uncommon to have one's uniform created by a private tailor for better fit and higher quality materials. Is that still done or is it so against regulations that nobody does it any longer? Modern Class A's up close are just so cheap looking, I can't see wanting to wear them if it was possible to have a decent set whipped up. Particularly if you were in a position where you never appeared in formation and wouldn't be readily compared with the issue stuff.

-Dave

Bespoke uniforms were common a very long time ago. Officers were required to purchase their uniforms and companies like Brooks Brothers did a huge business. I'd venture to say so did a lot of the competition if you look in an older Howitzer, the West Point yearbook. I have a pretty large collection of Howitzers and the ads in the back for men's tailors, particularly in the 1920's were very nice. I don't know about any tailor but you can check out military surplus & clothing at many online sites.

 

[GHT]

Twenty odd years ago, my wife and I used to hire military uniforms from someone who had so many that he converted his garage into a small warehouse. When he called it a day, we purchased a few uniforms from him. The quality of the garments always struck me as being impeccable, but I never really gave it much thought as to whether they were made to measure. The bike is no more, but I still have the US Colonel's uniform.

 

[Guttersnipe]

It seems to me that "bespoke" may be incompatible with the concept of "uniform", but anyway.

The term "bespoke" indicates that a unique pattern was drawn to the specific measurements of the client, not necessary aesthetic details like pockets, buttons, lapels, etc. So, it's not at all incomparable with the concept of a uniform. The connection between Savile Row's bespoke tailoring houses and the British Armed Forces is famous! In fact, even to this day the Household units have their ceremonial uniforms made on the Row.

 

[HistoryCopper]

My grandfather enlisted in the Army National Guard in 1940. They were called up to federal service a few months before Pearl Harbor and then in Jan/Feb of 1942 he went through OCS at Fort Benning, I believe. Anyway, he told me that just before graduation he and a bunch of the other OCS candidates had Class A uniforms made at a local tailor. I'm assuming they did it far enough into the course so they could be certain of graduation but far enough away from commissioning so they would be ready in time. The course was around 90 days back then. Give or take.

 

[ErWeSa]

I can only talk for the Austrian army: here at least the officers (I think also NCOs but don't know from which rank upwards) have the right to have their dress uniforms tailor made. Problem is to find a tailor who can still make a decent uniform (well, not really a problem, as there are only very few people/officers who know what a decent uniforms looks like).

 

[Haversack]

Here is the URL for a company that specializes in the ceremonial uniforms accessories for the UK's military.

Firmin House

According to their site, they have been in business in some form or another since 1655 when England was under the Commonwealth.

 

[TPD166]

I had a few Army uniforms made overseas by a Hong Kong tailor who did an outstanding job. In the U.S., the list is getting very small. The above-mentioned Marlow White make a very fine quality uniform and will tailor it for your measurement - my dress blues and my wool elastique greens came from there. The now-closed Super Trooper (J. Creswell & Sons) in Anniston, AL, did nice work as well - my officer's cape and dress whites were made by them - and the dress whites were declared obsolete about three months after I received mine.

The last truly custom tailor for Army uniforms in the U.S. is Haas in Baltimore, MD. I always planned to have a uniform made by Haas, but never got around to it before I retired. I know Haas had also started making USAF uniforms at one time, but I am not sure if that continued. As far as I know, the Marine Shop at Quantico still makes custom uniforms for the USMC and few items for the Navy. The last time I was in the Navy Exchange in Norfolk, they had a huge display of Navy dress uniforms by Brooks Brothers. Not custom, but noticeably much nicer than the normal PX uniforms.

As an aside, a close friend (and now a fellow Lounger) told me he had his USAF Class A uniform tailored after he got out of Basic Training. He was wearing it on base when a senior NCO saw him. The NCO told him that it was finest looking Air Force uniform he had ever seen. And that he better not ever get caught wearing it again.

 

[Guttersnipe]

As an aside, a close friend (and now a fellow Lounger) told me he had his USAF Class A uniform tailored after he got out of Basic Training. He was wearing it on base when a senior NCO saw him. The NCO told him that it was finest looking Air Force uniform he had ever seen. And that he better not ever get caught wearing it again.

Ha! That's funny. My Dad told me that, when he did his basic training in 1962, a lot of the officers and NCOs all had suspiciously well-fitting fatigues, complete with fresh creases at all times. He always thought that they had their fatigues specially tailored to fit better.

 

[bespokewrinkles]

Dege & Skinner -- Savile Row tailors to officers and gentlemen.

The concepts of 'bespoke' and 'uniform', particularly in a military context, should not be seen as mutually exclusive. Bear in mind, many (if not most) of the hallmarks of a man's dress today has direct lineage to it's military cousins; it's from where men's clothing has evolved.

-- CB

This.

Dress uniforms ought to be uniform in style, but bespoke in fit.

 

[EliasRDA]

Not to be a downer, but for those of you that did not serve, please keep in mind that its not right for you to wear medals that you did not earn & try to pass yourself off as a veteran. I'm specifically referring to the USA here, I do not know how other countries handle it.
I earned my rank & medals the hard way, with my blood sweat & yes tears, & while I understand say repping your passed grandfather, father, uncle, etc & their medals, I've seen too many scumbags claiming to earn silver stars, purple hearts, etc & claiming to be vets.

While I would not attack them as some of my vet brethren have, I will have a quiet word with (general) you if I see you.

I know we are all gentlemen & ladies here

 

[Guttersnipe]

Not to be a downer, but for those of you that did not serve, please keep in mind that its not right for you to wear medals that you did not earn & try to pass yourself off as a veteran. I'm specifically referring to the USA here, I do not know how other countries handle it.
I earned my rank & medals the hard way, with my blood sweat & yes tears, & while I understand say repping your passed grandfather, father, uncle, etc & their medals, I've seen too many scumbags claiming to earn silver stars, purple hearts, etc & claiming to be vets.

While I would not attack them as some of my vet brethren have, I will have a quiet word with (general) you if I see you.

I know we are all gentlemen & ladies here

I get where you're coming from, and this comes up in historical reenacting circles, but you aren't seriously trying to accuse anyone here of "stolen valor" are you?

 

[GHT]

Not to be a downer, but for those of you that did not serve, please keep in mind that its not right for you to wear medals that you did not earn & try to pass yourself off as a veteran. I'm specifically referring to the USA here, I do not know how other countries handle it.

In the UK the tradition is for a member of the armed forces to wear his/her medals on the left side of the chest. For those who represent the owner of those medals, such as a widow/Father/Brother, at the remembrance service of the fallen, it is our custom to wear the medals on the right hand side. This denotes the fact that the wearer didn't win the medals, but is just the medal owners representative.