Berets, Anyone?

[Daan]

Money... You pay for a beret, but when living in the right place at the right time, you'll find the beret back on your money too.
French Francs:

Spanish Pesetas:

and even on coins, like this Finnish 2 euro:

 

[Daan]

Nothing better than the real deal, of course, but posters featuring berets are plentiful and some are actually nice pieces of art in their own right:

The last five were posters typically seen in hat (and department) stores at a time that hat and beret wearing was as common as putting on a shirt and pants every day. A long time gone now...
Below many berets, or boinas, advertising the Fiesta de San Fermin in Pamplona, over various years:

 

[Daan]

After the Foulards in black, the Auloronesa and Aotearoa Foulards in French Khaki are the most popular colour with customers and it is easy to see why!

'French Khaki', also named 'Olive' or 'Winter-Green' is a custom made colour for South Pacific Berets and Boneteria Aotearoa and very different from any standard green shade beret. What's more, this colour comes on the world's very best berets only.

Now with a good discount, as long as the stock lasts for a limited time!

 

[Daan]

It's looking more and more like this thread is becoming my private web site... Where are all the anecdotes, good buys, juicy stories, etc on berets from other visitors here??

Anyway, I did come across something rather interesting and can't stop myself from posting it here: the origins of the green beret!

Not many berets, Basque or military, have a reputation as widely known as "The Green Berets". However, not many people know that the origins of this illustrious headgear lie in the Belgian mountainous region of the Ardennes. It was due to Adolphe L'Heureux, member of the Belgian regiment of Chasseurs Ardennais and via his liaison with Lord Keyes, that Churchill agreed to designate (the same) green berets for the British elite and commando forces during WWII in 1941 (see articles pictured below).

And the good thing is, you needn't be a Commando to wear one of these berets; the Chasseurs Alpins still wear the true Basque berets in dark green, made by Laulhere and available here.

 

[Yarbles]

Hopefully by the time winter comes around the Exchange rate from US to AU will be more even ....coz its brutal now ...

I love that french Khaki colour ...

 

[foamy]

The shop only deals in dollars so I don't think the rate will make much if any, difference. But what do I know? Just something I noted.

Fall and Winter are (currently) my favorite times of the year to wear a nice beret. Was accompanying a good friend on a horse shoeing job over the weekend and whipped out the Año 1858, 30 cm. I had put my hair in a ponytail (which I don't often do, unless I'm sailing) and so the diameter of the beret is very much more apparent. The man thought he had encountered an alien. As did everyone else I saw—and I've gotten better at wearing them.

Curious, I can wear the highest crown, largest brimmed hat many folks have ever seen—but it's the berets that get the looks. I don't know why. Compared to my fedoras, I think they're pretty low-key, but evidently, that's not the case. Ask me if I care. I do not. They are as comfortable and carefree as any hat I own and get worn as much as or more than any other style of hat I own (and the inventory is getting up there). I like my berets a lot.

Yours truly, caught unaware. Out having a little fun about three or four weeks ago when the temps were up and the winds were down. Boneteria Auloronesa.

 

[Daan]

The shop only deals in dollars so I don't think the rate will make much if any, difference. But what do I know? Just something I noted.

Fall and Winter are (currently) my favorite times of the year to wear a nice beret. Was accompanying a good friend on a horse shoeing job over the weekend and whipped out the Año 1858, 30 cm. I had put my hair in a ponytail (which I don't often do, unless I'm sailing) and so the diameter of the beret is very much more apparent. The man thought he had encountered an alien. As did everyone else I saw—and I've gotten better at wearing them.

Curious, I can wear the highest crown, largest brimmed hat many folks have ever seen—but it's the berets that get the looks. I don't know why. Compared to my fedoras, I think they're pretty low-key, but evidently, that's not the case. Ask me if I care. I do not. They are as comfortable and carefree as any hat I own and get worn as much as or more than any other style of hat I own (and the inventory is getting up there). I like my berets a lot.

Yours truly, caught unaware. Out having a little fun about three or four weeks ago when the temps were up and the winds were down. Boneteria Auloronesa.

View attachment 42617

The $ thing is a bit more complicated, the US$ being so much stronger at present than the Aussie and Kiwi dollars. And while it may be good for the sales of my berets, it is nightmare inducing everytime I have to pay the manufacturers in US$. Good for you Americans out there though...

I completely recognize what you say about 'getting the looks' when wearing (large) berets, Foamy. It's a curious thing, that such a simple, humble piece of round felted wool can cause such strong reactions (that more complicated, larger, elaborate hats don't). The other day I wore my rust-red Tarte Alpin in Wellington; not just looks but many comments and all positive, from men and women (and mind, New Zealanders are very private, not that quick to comment altogether!).

I like the picture of yourself with the rocket. It reminds me of American professor Robert Hutchings Goddard (1882 – 1945) who was a physicist and inventor who is credited with creating and building the world's first liquid-fueled rocket, which he successfully launched on March 16, 1926 (with beret!).

Goddard and his team launched 34 rockets between 1926 and 1941, achieving altitudes as high as 2.6 km (1.62 miles) and speeds as high as 885 km/h (550 mph).
Goddard received little public support for his research during his lifetime. Though his work in the field was revolutionary, he was sometimes ridiculed in the press for his theories concerning spaceflight. As a result, he became protective of his privacy and his work.

Goddard pulling one of his rockets
Years after his death, at the dawn of the Space Age, he came to be recognized as one of the founding fathers of modern rocketry. He was the first not only to recognize the scientific potential of missiles and space travel but also to bring about the design and construction of the rockets needed to implement those ideas.

 

[foamy]

Hi Daan, having thought about it a bit, I believe I get looks because a man wearing a beret over here is danged near unheard of. I've seen two (other than my own) in the past two years. I may be coming off as a little "flamboyant." At least as far as other(s) tastes are concerned. The hair doesn't help, I reckon.

I've seen that photo of Goddard quite a bit and it never registered that he was wearing a beret. Hm. Great example, now that I recognize it.

I'm considering building a model of of his L-13 rocket— a more "rocket" looking rocket than his first experiments. Though, "Nell" would be fairly straight forward to build (if you're handy with wire) and would be a tractor-rocket, boosting from the top. That's a fun concept.

 

[NoHorse]

Hi folks!

My first post in this thread - I've been long-time a lurker in Fedora threads and also over in leather jackets. I want to share that I've recently received a navy 265 mm Exposicion Super Lujo from Daan. Rather than emailing Daan with my questions I will be posting here, so that everybody can join in, and read his answers as well.

The first thing to remark is what great service I got. Daan was very accomodating about some special requirements in the shipping. I am also happy to buy a size and color that I don't see listed on the Elosegui website. I imagine that Daan's bulk purchases enable him to wangle some special deals.

First impressions of the super lujo is of heft. The wool has more body than a French beret I bought years ago. It was a good quality, yet compared to the Super Lujo it felt floppy. (The headband shrank so I gave it away... That's before I got my hat jack!) I LIKE this thick felt!

The super lujo's material is also a bit fluffy, which leads to first question: i've seen a British video on how to shape a military beret, and the process included shaving the material. Is that the thing to do? And if it is, should that be done before or after it's broken in?

And so, the next question: how does one break it a beret?

And, lastly, (for now) Daan recommends streching with a hat jack, while Ron Greer has a video showing a circumferential stretching. My bean is a very long oval... So should I stretch circumferentially because the beret is round, or in one diection because my head is so oval?

About size: I am very happy that I chose a modest size. I am a mere 16cm between the ears, and a wider beret would have made me look like Richard Wagner!

I will post some pictures soon, particularly of the "rimless" edge, so that that's available to everybody.

 

[BoinaBuena]

You should never need to shave a beret. Ever. That is done at the factory during manufacturer.

You can stretch any onepiece beret carefully by hand. If it's quality, it will stay the way you stretched it. Do as I and my forefathers did: yank it on, pull it off and see what it looks like. Then carefully stretch it, cm by cm, with your fingertips.

I see no reason to buy a hat stretcher.

Breaking in a beret is done by wearing. A beret is not a pair of shoes. And note, one does not break in shoes. They either fit or they don't.

Suerte.

 

[Daan]

BoinaBuena, I couldn't agree more! The whole idea of modelling and shaving a beret comes from the military, but no self respecting boinero would shave his Basque beret. Some berets are more 'fluffy' than others (eg a Hispano Basque is very soft to the touch and a little fluffy; a Czech tartan 11.5 is smooth as can be - most berets are somewhere in between).
Stretching however, is another matter. BoinaBuena's instructions are exactly right, but maybe the more detailed instructions below are helpful too (this is what I usually send out with berets like the boina Super Lujo (which usually requires a bit of stretching due to its density and stiffness).
A hat jack can be helpful, especially for very small diameter berets (like the boina Super Lujo 244) when worn by people with a large head size; it just facilitates the stretching process, but by all means, you can just do it by hand only.

The best way to model a beret? Wear it. That's the only way; over time the beret will stretch and adjust to the individual wearer's head size and shape. Don't rush, be patient and enjoy the process!


The headband-less berets stretch to even the largest head size, providing they are stretched in the correct manner.
To stretch your new beret:
Sit down. Place beret upside down on your lap. Grip the beret’s headband with both hands.
Gripping the headband with one hand gently, but firmly pull your other hand away from the gripping hand, dragging it along the headband. You don’t want to grip so hard that you rip the fabric but you should feel some heat from the friction of your grip.
Rotate the beret a 1/4 turn and repeat, trying the beret on every few pulls. This process, depending on your head size, may take a few a few minutes to ‘work’ the fabric to your size.
If you follow these simple instructions you shouldn't have any problem stretching the headband to fit. Don’t pull with foot and hand, or simply hands opposite each other; you really need to pull, or stretch the fabric fibers using the technique described above. Once stretched the beret stays that size well.

 

[BoinaBuena]

A few observations: probably the oldest beret images that I put my stock in are the self-portraits of Rembrandt.

As to el vuelo (overall diameter) there's good reason fir variety and it wasn't fashion. The military and the laborers wore a small vuelo because it was handier, warmer and out if the way.

Even so, lots of farmers in el Pais Vasco opted for a larger vuelo, so they could pull that extra wool forward/backward. As for trim, a sweatband was pretty normal, but it was as common to see a onepiece. However, I in my life never saw a swaetband crack, as someone on here keeps posting.

Leather must be cared for, as if it were shoe leather...a modern-day leather lotion will do. The cracking probably indicates you've got a patent leather sweatband.

 

[BoinaBuena]

Amigo, agreed...and the best of your post is the advice to enjoy. It kills me, men don't know, let alone enjoy, a beret nowadays. Where I live, in Illinois, U.S.A., few men wear them.

BoinaBuena, I couldn't agree more! The whole idea of modelling and shaving a beret comes from the military, but no self respecting boinero would shave his Basque beret. Some berets are more 'fluffy' than others (eg a Hispano Basque is very soft to the touch and a little fluffy; a Czech tartan 11.5 is smooth as can be - most berets are somewhere in between).
Stretching however, is another matter. BoinaBuena's instructions are exactly right, but maybe the more detailed instructions below are helpful too (this is what I usually send out with berets like the boina Super Lujo (which usually requires a bit of stretching due to its density and stiffness).
A hat jack can be helpful, especially for very small diameter berets (like the boina Super Lujo 244) when worn by people with a large head size; it just facilitates the stretching process, but by all means, you can just do it by hand only.

The best way to model a beret? Wear it. That's the only way; over time the beret will stretch and adjust to the individual wearer's head size and shape. Don't rush, be patient and enjoy the process!


The headband-less berets stretch to even the largest head size, providing they are stretched in the correct manner.
To stretch your new beret:
Sit down. Place beret upside down on your lap. Grip the beret’s headband with both hands.
Gripping the headband with one hand gently, but firmly pull your other hand away from the gripping hand, dragging it along the headband. You don’t want to grip so hard that you rip the fabric but you should feel some heat from the friction of your grip.
Rotate the beret a 1/4 turn and repeat, trying the beret on every few pulls. This process, depending on your head size, may take a few a few minutes to ‘work’ the fabric to your size.
If you follow these simple instructions you shouldn't have any problem stretching the headband to fit. Don’t pull with foot and hand, or simply hands opposite each other; you really need to pull, or stretch the fabric fibers using the technique described above. Once stretched the beret stays that size well.

 

[BoinaBuena]

One thing that gets to me more is the horrible shipping I have to pay South Pacific--quite understandable and quite horrid. It's no better if I try Laulhere, but at least I can get one from The Village Hat Shop or amazon, eh?

SP has such fine berets, too. I'd love to try one of the German models. Sometimes one gets fed up with the onepiece and the sweatbanded models!

 

[BoinaBuena]

My best buy ever: a vintage old stock Blancq-Olibet Niebla with a 9.5" vuelo. But you've never felt such stiff wool in your life! As bad as a Balmoral. Still, it brought back memories of youth, and in spite of my fat head, it looks tres bien.

 

[Daan]

Interesting comments. As for the leather headbands, I don't agree with you. Of course, there are headbands and headbands; some, like the ones used by Blancq-Olibet, were well known for stiffening up and developing cracks over time. The headbands used now by Laulhère are fine (but had you bought a Laulhère, previously BeaTex 10 years ago, you may not agree...). Personally, I only find the headbands used by Boneteria Auloronesa (and my own line of Aotearoa berets) pleasant to wear (but hey, I am a big fan of Universels, or headbandless berets). These headbands are made of the same leather as used in the top of the range upholstery for Citroën and Peugeot vehicles; supple, soft and extremely comfortable.
Other manufacturers have to use a stiffer quality leather as the band actually holds the size. Any beret will shrink over time and thus reduce the tension on a leather headband that is not rigid, stiff; Boneteria Auloronesa managed to practically eliminate this shrinkage (by the way the berets are knitted) and can therefore use a much softer leather band.
Interesting detail: headbands in berets are a relatively new phenomenon. All berets used t be universels until it was possible to manufacture berets on a large scale after the Industrial Revolution. That's when headbands first appeared in berets.

Maintenance of your headbanded beret surely helps in keeping it in good order, either by rubbing in a clear oil or leather grease (use small amounts a time as it will "sweat out" when warming up against your head).

As for postage cost, what can I say? Being based at the bottom of the world makes for relatively high postage cost. However, I most suppliers from overseas that I come across tend to charge more than I do.

 

[BoinaBuena]

The sweatbands are without doubt rather offputting for the modern crowd, we can at least agree about that. The true horror is the use of vinyl, which I find revolting in the extreme but I get used to it anyway.

I don't think you're right about sweatbands being new. My grandfather, who was born in 1880, owned several. They were very old.

Interesting comments. As for the leather headbands, I don't agree with you. Of course, there are headbands and headbands; some, like the ones used by Blancq-Olibet, were well known for stiffening up and developing cracks over time. The headbands used now by Laulhère are fine (but had you bought a Laulhère, previously BeaTex 10 years ago, you may not agree...). Personally, I only find the headbands used by Boneteria Auloronesa (and my own line of Aotearoa berets) pleasant to wear (but hey, I am a big fan of Universels, or headbandless berets). These headbands are made of the same leather as used in the top of the range upholstery for Citroën and Peugeot vehicles; supple, soft and extremely comfortable.
Other manufacturers have to use a stiffer quality leather as the band actually holds the size. Any beret will shrink over time and thus reduce the tension on a leather headband that is not rigid, stiff; Boneteria Auloronesa managed to practically eliminate this shrinkage (by the way the berets are knitted) and can therefore use a much softer leather band.
Interesting detail: headbands in berets are a relatively new phenomenon. All berets used t be universels until it was possible to manufacture berets on a large scale after the Industrial Revolution. That's when headbands first appeared in berets.

Maintenance of your headbanded beret surely helps in keeping it in good order, either by rubbing in a clear oil or leather grease (use small amounts a time as it will "sweat out" when warming up against your head).

As for postage cost, what can I say? Being based at the bottom of the world makes for relatively high postage cost. However, I most suppliers from overseas that I come across tend to charge more than I do.

 

[BoinaBuena]

...however, in the centuries-old world of berets, I agree with you the sweatband is relatively 'new'.

One thing I know as an anthropologist and historian is a lit if people hate a onepiece either because of a wool allergy or they just hate that wool rubbing anywhere on the front of their heads.

I advise them to sew a wee bit of grosgrain along the inside to help. I did that with an insufferable Scots bonaid and now I love it.

 

[foamy]

My first "real" beret was a leather sweatband model, a Hoquy/Laulheré. Fit perfectly right out of the box, but then got smaller, stiffer and scratchier. On advice given here, I got a hat stretcher (and some one-piece/sweatbandless models). After some leather conditioner, stretching and wearing—it is fine. Fits and feels lovely now—just have to keep it in the rotation and wear it. That's not a problem as it's a nice beret.

I am now favoring the one-piece models as it eliminates sizing issues, which for someone between sizes (like me), can become a hassle. Sure, they (one-piece) can be a little tight right out of the shop, but as BoinaBuena mentions, you have to "break them in," which is not onerous, it's a pleasure.

To eliminate even that small inconvenience, try a Boneteria Auloronesa (or something similar?) that uses a draw-string/ribbon. Perfect sizing every time. Comfortable too—but then, they all are.

 

[leftyguy]

My new office mug!