Bemidji Woolen Mills

Retromoto · Feb 11, 2016

I'm looking to replace a older L.L. Bean wool Mackinaw and came across Bemidji Woolen Mills.
Has anyone done business with them? It sounds like their wool coats are built to order, If anyone has a item of theirs, is the quality good? Communications? Ease of ordering? I'm basically looking for a well made USA made wool coat with a vintage feel and look, any other suggestions on manufactures?
thanks in advance,
Retromoto

Amir · Feb 11, 2016

Retromoto said:
I'm looking to replace a older L.L. Bean wool Mackinaw and came across Bemidji Woolen Mills.
Has anyone done business with them? It sounds like their wool coats are built to order, If anyone has a item of theirs, is the quality good? Communications? Ease of ordering? I'm basically looking for a well made USA made wool coat with a vintage feel and look, any other suggestions on manufactures?
thanks in advance,
Retromoto

Yes, absolutely. The folks at Bemidji are terrific, and they make a solid product, in Minnesota. I have a Voyageurs Jac Coat in gray Adirondack pin-stripe - 30 oz, 85/15% wool/nylon.

So are the Vermonters at Johnson Woolen Mills.

I have Buffalo Check wool shirts from each.

OneEyeMan · Feb 11, 2016

The standard is Filson. Probably more expensive though.

OneEyeMan · Feb 11, 2016

The standard is Filson. Probably more expensive though.

Retromoto · Feb 11, 2016

Amir said:
Yes, absolutely. The folks at Bemidji are terrific, and they make a solid product, in Minnesota. I have a Voyageurs Jac Coat in gray Adirondack pin-stripe - 30 oz, 85/15% wool/nylon.

So are the Vermonters at Johnson Woolen Mills.

I have Buffalo Check wool shirts from each.

They're the only surviving US woolen mills.

Thanks for the reply, Were you a online customer or a walk-in? Did you forget Woolrich as a USA wool supplier?
Retromoto

Retromoto · Feb 11, 2016

OneEyeMan said:
The standard is Filson. Probably more expensive though.

I've been disappointed in the last (2) wool items I've purchased from Filson, unfortunate as I like their styling on several
products.
Retromoto

pawineguy · Feb 11, 2016

Amir said:
Yes, absolutely. The folks at Bemidji are terrific, and they make a solid product, in Minnesota. I have a Voyageurs Jac Coat in gray Adirondack pin-stripe - 30 oz, 85/15% wool/nylon.

So are the Vermonters at Johnson Woolen Mills.

I have Buffalo Check wool shirts from each.

They're the only surviving US woolen mills.

Pendleton??

Amir · Feb 11, 2016

I apologize, and did not want to disrespect Woolrich and/or Pendleton.

Most of Woolrich's (which sports the tagline, "The original outdoor company" ) garments are manufactured abroad. As examples, a Woolrich hunt coat and its classic, the regular buffalo check shirt, are imported.

Its domestic wool operation appears to have dwindled to blankets, bags, socks, caps, and collaborations with other companies. Its central Pennsylvania mill produces fabric - rolls and yards.

***
Below is from the Woolrich website:

Q: Do you manufacture all of your products in the United States?

A. No. At Woolrich, we take pride in our commitment to provide authentic product of high quality and value for men and women who love the outdoors. For American apparel companies to survive and grow in this past decade and in the future, we have all had to become truly global. Our company has been able to increase American employment in marketing, merchandising, administration, and retail. Although we manufacture many of our garments (or components) overseas, they are designed by us and meet our strict quality standards and specifications.

***

As for Pendleton, a 6th generation family business out of the Pacific Northwest, other than blankets and throws, its mills only turn out fabrics on rolls and wool yarn, "remnants and notions for sewing and crafting."

For example, Pendleton men's shirts appear either "imported" or "imported of USA fabric." It, too, has collaborations with other companies

***

Believe me, I would love to rally around companies that decide to bring some of their overseas apparel manufacturing back home.

An author, Kelsey Timmerman blogs and wrote a book called "Where Am I Wearing," writes globalization makes it difficult to know where the things you buy come from.

Dinerman · Feb 11, 2016

What size are you? The quality on wool hunting jackets started to go downhill almost across the board in the 1950s. Coats from '30s-'50s can still be picked up extremely reasonably, in good shape, and come up in larger sizes surprisingly often.

Retromoto · Feb 12, 2016

Dinerman said:
What size are you? The quality on wool hunting jackets started to go downhill almost across the board in the 1950s. Coats from '30s-'50s can still be picked up extremely reasonably, in good shape, and come up in larger sizes surprisingly often.

I wear a 42-44 depending on Mfg. I've been watching the used market although since men were a bit smaller in past, I have not come across too many larger sized coats. I agree, the older Mfg.'s did a great job on clothing.
Retromoto

Dinerman · Feb 12, 2016

Most of that type of coat I run across are in the 42 range- while it's easier to find suits in the 36 range, I actually have a much harder time finding those old hunting coats or mackinaws under a size 40.

feltfan · Feb 12, 2016

Darn Tough? Dehen?

Retromoto · Feb 12, 2016

feltfan said:
Darn Tough? Dehen?

The Dehen Stalwart is certainly a great looking jacket although I don't believe it's available in the Red/Black Shadow
print I'm looking for. I only saw a navy and loden on their site.
Retromoto

Amir · Feb 12, 2016

That Dehen Stalwart looks robust!

I considered the double cape jac shirt (zip) in Adirondack by Johnson Woolen Mills :

http://johnsonwoolenmills.com/product/jac-shirts/

But went with Bemidji (buttons) and the Voyageurs Jac Coat:

http://www.bemidjiwoolenmills.com/details.php?itemid=bm07_101&im=bm07_105.jpg

I especially like the wool shirts:

http://johnsonwoolenmills.com/product/long-tail-button-shirts/

My guess is a L would fit you. I'm a 40-42, and wear Johnson/Bemidji M.

Retromoto · Feb 12, 2016

Amir said:
That Dehen Stalwart looks robust!

I considered the double cape jac shirt (zip) in Adirondack by Johnson Woolen Mills :

http://johnsonwoolenmills.com/product/jac-shirts/

But went with Bemidji (buttons) and the Voyageurs Jac Coat:

http://www.bemidjiwoolenmills.com/details.php?itemid=bm07_101&im=bm07_105.jpg

I especially like the wool shirts:

http://johnsonwoolenmills.com/product/long-tail-button-shirts/

My guess is a L would fit you. I'm a 40-42, and wear Johnson/Bemidji M.

It sounds like the Johnson/Benmidji items run a bit large, good information as I have a e-mail into Benmidji concerning sizing
and I'm still waiting for a reply......I agree about the wool shirts, I especially like the "Spruce" color. Thanks for the heads-up.
Retromoto

Retromoto · Feb 13, 2016

Dinerman said:
Most of that type of coat I run across are in the 42 range- while it's easier to find suits in the 36 range, I actually have a much harder time finding those old hunting coats or mackinaws under a size 40.

That's odd, unless there's some type of regional differences due to physical makeups due to
work ethic, family genealogy, etc. there shouldn't be much difference. Years ago I purchased a 1950's, men's (42) "SOO" zip up Red/Back hunting coat which I searched for a long time in a (44) although could not find. The coat had longer than normal sleeves which allowed me to wear it although only over a T-Shirt. A nice flannel lining and heavy wool make up allowed me to stay warm through the winter.
Retromoto

Dinerman · Feb 13, 2016

Dinerman · Feb 13, 2016

Retromoto · Feb 13, 2016

Dinerman said:
Some of the 42's. No reason to pay more than $50+ shipping for a jacket like this.

1950s
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311543270046

Early '60s
http://www.ebay.com/itm/322002208366

1950s
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151967912310

1960s
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391366591792

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182016188784

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191803032664

1950s
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201511320679

1930s-1940s
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371130288628

1950s
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141901636045

1940s
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261677290544

1950s
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201507751219

The list goes on- lots more that I didn't include. Really common, especially in larger sizes, better quality wool and a sixth of the cost of a new one.

I understand now, I felt you were referring to clothing you were able to access locally not through the online auctions. I certainly appreciate your efforts although I don't utilize eBay any longer....Thanks regardless. Retromoto

Dinerman · Feb 13, 2016

Locally, too, but I've been burned too many times to start buying on spec again. The best I can do is show you good sources.

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