Belting a back

[Wash In Lux]

Alright here's some pics. I'm not the greatest photographer and it's not near as flattering on the mannequin as it is me, LOL. With all the stripes, the center seam on the belt is barely visible. I did 4 pleats, 2 on top and 2 on bottom. I only pull this suit out once every couple years and always forget how cool it is. I took more pics and will do a separate post.

 

[reetpleat]

Love it.

Did you do anything to the bottom to keep it from poufing out? When I gather the fabric, it seems to affect the bottom and make it rise a little and pouf out.

And did you take the inside or outer seams in or out? was it loose before?

 

[Wash In Lux]

Love it.

Did you do anything to the bottom to keep it from poufing out? When I gather the fabric, it seems to affect the bottom and make it rise a little and pouf out.

And did you take the inside or outer seams in or out? was it loose before?

Do you mean when making the pleats? Maybe you're gathering too much? I made 2 small pleats and then when the belt was sewn on, it looks like 4; 2 on top and 2 on bottom. My gathers for the pleats are only about 1/8", so doubled up = 1/4" of material for each pleat. And then the length sewn for the pleats is only a little longer than the width of the belt. You've got to make the pleats tight for the width of the belt and then start to taper them out just beyond.
If the jacket's a little big and you're trying to use pleats for the belt as a way to make the jacket fit, that could be a problem.
As for the seams, my jacket was a little loose and I ended up taking in the side seams a bit (the seams where belt is sewn into) from armpit all the way down to hem. It kinda looks like I may have even taken in the other side seams (don't remember for sure as it was done about 10 years ago and the lining is sewn up so can't look), the ones that run from just above the pockets to directly underneath armpits. Didn't have to do anything to center seam.
Much of proper fitting is trial and error. I sew, then try the jacket on, repeat the process. Often more than 20 times before satisfied. Don't have time for that anymore, LOL.
Does this help at all?

 

[Marcus]

I had been looking for this thread since it gave me some inspiration to try belting a suit jacket. I did it with a 70's suit that had some 30's flare to it. I figured if we screwed it up, it wouldn't be such a tragedy. I'd never do this to a vintage suit. Will post results later tonight. I think it came out ok, but will be looking for some opinions on what we can do better.

 

[resortes805]

There is a guy on ebay offering to beltback suit coats via his tailor. Material is discreetly harvested from the section of fabric behind the front buttons and is used for the half belt.

 

[dakotanorth]

I know who it is, too.
I think that's a way to ruin a perfectly good jacket, and that big patch of fabric missing from the inside of the jacket facing is more apparent than people realize.
We'll see how many listen to me, though....

There is a guy on ebay offering to beltback suit coats via his tailor. Material is discreetly harvested from the section of fabric behind the front buttons and is used for the half belt.

 

[J.J. Gittes]

I know who it is, too.
I think that's a way to ruin a perfectly good jacket, and that big patch of fabric missing from the inside of the jacket facing is more apparent than people realize.
We'll see how many listen to me, though....

I know who it is also. I hope nobody would do it to a perfectly good vintage suit. Some newer stuff made vintage-ish, sure, but I don't like to alter things that are already fine. The only exception to that is the crazy suit above, it just works. lol

 

[Marcus]

My wife did exactly what is described above and used the inside facing. Did we use a Golden Era suit...no way! I have a 3 piece 70's suit with some 30's features that we did the experiment with. I figured if it gets thrashed, not a huge loss. Below are some before and after shots. We documented the process too. Anyhow, please give constructive criticism and let me know what could be done better:

Before:

After (sorry cell phone pic):

 

[thunderw21]

My wife did exactly what is described above and used the inside facing. Did we use a Golden Era suit...no way! I have a 3 piece 70's suit with some 30's features that we did the experiment with. I figured if it gets thrashed, not a huge loss. Below are some before and after shots. We documented the process too. Anyhow, please give constructive criticism and let me know what could be done better:

Before:

After (sorry cell phone pic):

Glad you were able to turn that suit into something. I'd like to see it being worn, gives a better impression.
Really interested in seeing the process photos.

 

[Marcus]

Will do..the wife is fixing the trousers up today. No cuff and very long as you may remember.

 

[Wash In Lux]

There is a guy on ebay offering to beltback suit coats via his tailor. Material is discreetly harvested from the section of fabric behind the front buttons and is used for the half belt.

Agree with others. That's just wrong.

 

[Wash In Lux]

My wife did exactly what is described above and used the inside facing. Did we use a Golden Era suit...no way! I have a 3 piece 70's suit with some 30's features that we did the experiment with. I figured if it gets thrashed, not a huge loss. Below are some before and after shots. We documented the process too. Anyhow, please give constructive criticism and let me know what could be done better:

It's not bad. That windowpane doesn't really lend itself to doing the belt. Looks a bit funny with the pattern kind of wonky now. Perhaps the pleating/gathers was overdone making the pattern wonkiness even more noticeable?

 

[dakotanorth]

Redesigning clothing- belt backs?

My nutshell assessment is this- and this is my lifelong, global rule of thumb to everyone on everything.
Anything done well, with good planning and design principles, can look GREAT.
Arbitrarily changing something to simply get a desired result is a crapshoot.
Like mentioned above, sometimes certain patterns/weaves just don't permit good results, even with the best intentions and craftmanship. Even seen a great car that just doesn't look good in a certain color? Same idea.

In short, everyone is going to do what they want to do, but please, for the sake of preserving vintage clothing, do your homework. Draw sketches, seek out examples, ask a tailor some questions, do a mock-up if possible. You'd be surprised to learn what you didn't know.....

And of course, ask questions on FL and post pictures!

 

[thunderw21]

My nutshell assessment is this- and this is my lifelong, global rule of thumb to everyone on everything.
Anything done well, with good planning and design principles, can look GREAT.
Arbitrarily changing something to simply get a desired result is a crapshoot.
Like mentioned above, sometimes certain patterns/weaves just don't permit good results, even with the best intentions and craftmanship. Even seen a great car that just doesn't look good in a certain color? Same idea.

In short, everyone is going to do what they want to do, but please, for the sake of preserving vintage clothing, do your homework. Draw sketches, seek out examples, ask a tailor some questions, do a mock-up if possible. You'd be surprised to learn what you didn't know.....

And of course, ask questions on FL and post pictures!

I agree with this. I couldn't imagine doing this kind of alteration to a true vintage jacket.

A '70s jacket is a different matter.

 

[mike]

I would think a stand alone 30's-40's jacket that is somewhat beat up wouldn't be a bad candidate for this process.

 

[thunderw21]

bump

 

[Chrome]

Here is mine

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showpost.php?p=959646&postcount=3887

I have to sew it together a bit, movement disturbs when not knowing is my jacket hangig right or straight lol

I the near future I'll try with another jacket.