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" Belly Nutria" from mid-19th century Texas

carouselvic

I'll Lock Up
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4,982
Location
Kansas
This is an excerpt from an essay
JAMES MOROE CHOATE
SOUTHWEST'S BENEFACTOR
By Beauregard Choate Moye

I shall never forget his hat. If he ever had more than one at a time, I didn't know it. He could wear but one at a time and couldn't see any sense in having one hanging on the wall and not being used. He always bought a good one and took care of it and it lasted a long time. The ones that I remember were what are generally called white hats. They were not the "white" white hats, but were what was known to the hat trade as "Belly Nutra," a grayish white. The brim was not very wide, about three and a half inches and the crown was low, and he always crushed it around the edges, so it would sit flat on top of his head. And of course the ever present chin string fastened to the hat, just over the ears to keep from losing it in a tight.

The tight came when he was chasing an animal in the brush or against the wind. The broad-brimmed high crowned hat of today, known as a stockman's hat, was unknown then, and is useless in the brush......

Mr.Choate died 8-9-1899

The one thing else that I did find out was that in spanish-speaking countries,Texas included at that time, the word nutria refers to the otter. I guess he really did like a high-end hat. The essay is a good read if your are into old west history.
 

J.T.Marcus

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2,354
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Mineola, Texas
Fascinating, Douglas! Since the hat in the story is, as you say, a "high end"
hat, there is a question I've wondered about for some time. From 1865 to 1885, on the trail drives, what kind of hat did the low paid cowboys wear? Was it fur or wool? Any informed answer would be appreciated.
 

J.T.Marcus

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2,354
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Mineola, Texas
carouselvic, Please forgive me for the error in my post, above. That's a great story, and I want to give credit where credit is due! :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap
 

carouselvic

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,982
Location
Kansas
Thanks information is a lot of what this group is about

While I never dove any cattle from Texas to Kansas, I believe fur felt would have been the material of choice. Beaver Brand Hats started making hats in1860. Stetson started in 1865. Borsalino started making hats in 1857. Charles M. Russell, the great western artist, whore a Borsalino as his hat of choice. Like Russell I have grown quite fond of those "old Borsalinos" myself.
 

carouselvic

I'll Lock Up
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4,982
Location
Kansas
High-end ??

My use of the term may or may not have been historically accurate. The author said "he always bought a good one". I realy do not know where otter would rank in the quality scale of that time.

But speaking of quality check out the new vendor banner on the home page. Pierce's out of Texas. He is offering a chinchilla blank into a hat for $2000.00 or a beaver mink blend for a meager $1250.00. I opted to send him an old OPEN ROAD for a rebuild. Can't waite to get it back.
 

J.T.Marcus

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Mineola, Texas
"He always bought a good one..."

Wouldn't that suggest that a lot of people didn't? Perhaps, like today, the low paid masses (including cowboys) had to settle for wool, out of economic considerations.
 

jpdesign

Vendor
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235
Location
Glen Rose, TX
Cowboys had a great deal of money, for a short period of time. During the cattle drive they were paid nothing, at the end of the drive they were paid a great deal. A cowboy would buy new clothes, any new tack that may need to be replaced, and a new hat if needed before he went to the saloons for a bath, then get dressed and go to the bar/brothel. A cowboys hat was not a hat, it was a peice of equipment, a tool. Cowboys bought the best hat they could afford while they had the money.

Jimmy
 

J.T.Marcus

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Mineola, Texas
jpdesign said:
Cowboys had a great deal of money, for a short period of time...Cowboys bought the best hat they could afford while they had the money.Jimmy

I'm sure some bought a new hat, at the end of the drive. However, in Dodge City, Kansas, there is a museum wall full of portraits they had made at the end of the drive (Yes, photographs). There were maybe a couple of hundred, and I don't remember seeing a single "new" hat in the lot. What is obvious is that the young men were washed, their clothes were washed, and their hats were washed (and quite shapeless!). New hats were sold open crown with a flat brim, but these hats are undoubtedly veterans.
 

reetpleat

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2,681
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Seattle
J.T.Marcus said:
I'm sure some bought a new hat, at the end of the drive. However, in Dodge City, Kansas, there is a museum wall full of portraits they had made at the end of the drive (Yes, photographs). There were maybe a couple of hundred, and I don't remember seeing a single "new" hat in the lot. What is obvious is that the young men were washed, their clothes were washed, and their hats were washed (and quite shapeless!). New hats were sold open crown with a flat brim, but these hats are undoubtedly veterans.

I am sure the cowboy wore a hat till it was dead, but I would bet they didn't buy wool cheapies. A wool hat would probalby do no good out on the range. It would get wet, fall apart and get your head wet. A good hat would actually shed water for a good while.
 

reetpleat

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2,681
Location
Seattle
J.T.Marcus said:
I'm sure some bought a new hat, at the end of the drive. However, in Dodge City, Kansas, there is a museum wall full of portraits they had made at the end of the drive (Yes, photographs). There were maybe a couple of hundred, and I don't remember seeing a single "new" hat in the lot. What is obvious is that the young men were washed, their clothes were washed, and their hats were washed (and quite shapeless!). New hats were sold open crown with a flat brim, but these hats are undoubtedly veterans.

I am sure the cowboy wore a hat till it was dead, but I would bet they didn't buy wool cheapies. A wool hat would probalby do no good out on the range. It would get wet, fall apart and get your head wet. A good hat would actually shed water for a good while.


Besides that, fur was much more ommon. They probably used the cheaper furs, but probably better thn wool.
 

jpdesign

Vendor
Messages
235
Location
Glen Rose, TX
Not ever cowboy bought a new hat, no. Probably not even a third. I was just making the point that they would have the money to buy a good one when they bought one.

Why hats were sold open and flat, they had no stiffener. As far as I know long and round ovals did not come in until hats started to be made stiffer in the 1930s and 1940s. So putting a hat of soft felt onto a head it is not fitted to distorts the brim. So even new hats could look out of shape and beaten.

Jimmy
 

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