-
The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.
Become a Hatter?
- Thread starter EinarsM
- Start date
Daniele Tanto
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,253
- Location
- Verona - Italia
Mikael,
there are not so much hatters in Europa.
England, Germany, Italy, Spain, France, Czech and Slovenia and some more East lands have very few (individual) hatters and a little more hats factories (not so big).
It depends where you want to be in your apprentice and the grade of your knowledge about hats.
Let us know your desires.......
there are not so much hatters in Europa.
England, Germany, Italy, Spain, France, Czech and Slovenia and some more East lands have very few (individual) hatters and a little more hats factories (not so big).
It depends where you want to be in your apprentice and the grade of your knowledge about hats.
Let us know your desires.......
Daniele,
Thanks!
Well that's what my research led me too as well. I know there is a cool guy in Denmark, I tried to get a hold of but no luck so far.
I've always liked the US western hatters but my interest is leading towards learning about more formal hats like the Bowler etc. I am open to travel great distance to learn and really spend time on it. I would avoid large factories for sure, since I am looking for the true craft, if I may say so. I read about a few great Hatters that passed away recently which I was hoping to learn from.
Thanks!
Well that's what my research led me too as well. I know there is a cool guy in Denmark, I tried to get a hold of but no luck so far.
I've always liked the US western hatters but my interest is leading towards learning about more formal hats like the Bowler etc. I am open to travel great distance to learn and really spend time on it. I would avoid large factories for sure, since I am looking for the true craft, if I may say so. I read about a few great Hatters that passed away recently which I was hoping to learn from.
- Messages
- 10,939
- Location
- My mother's basement
This topic has been covered at some length already, Mikael.
The gist of those discussions is that most hatters nowadays are largely self-taught. If those budding hatters are wise, they would befriend more experienced hatters and pick their brains. Some old hands are quite generous in sharing tips, provided the neophyte maintains some level of deference and gratitude. Only the inexperienced think they "know it all."
This website is the largest repository I know of for the information a would-be hatter would find useful. So invest hundreds of hours reading over the pertinent information to be found here. And procure some beat up old hats to practice with. You will make mistakes, so far better to damage an essentially worthless old hat than a better one. But it is likelier you will turn what had been a hat fit for the trash heap into something you'd consider wearing.
Don't be in too great a rush to procure equipment. Much of what's out there would be of little if any use to you (I must have at least 25 size 6 7/8 and smaller blocks, at least 20 of which have had nothing but dust on them since I acquired 'em). But you will need a few blocks and flanges, and a flange stand, and a rounding jack, and sanding equipment. Specialized machinery is just wonderful, but it is also scarce and usually quite costly. For now, you can get by without it.
The processes involved in making new hats, and refurbishing old ones, are simple and straightforward, which is not to say they are easy to master. The processes involved in many things are easy to comprehend (coronary artery bypass surgery is just cutting and sewing, after all). But there is no substitute for hands-on practice, and lots of it.
The gist of those discussions is that most hatters nowadays are largely self-taught. If those budding hatters are wise, they would befriend more experienced hatters and pick their brains. Some old hands are quite generous in sharing tips, provided the neophyte maintains some level of deference and gratitude. Only the inexperienced think they "know it all."
This website is the largest repository I know of for the information a would-be hatter would find useful. So invest hundreds of hours reading over the pertinent information to be found here. And procure some beat up old hats to practice with. You will make mistakes, so far better to damage an essentially worthless old hat than a better one. But it is likelier you will turn what had been a hat fit for the trash heap into something you'd consider wearing.
Don't be in too great a rush to procure equipment. Much of what's out there would be of little if any use to you (I must have at least 25 size 6 7/8 and smaller blocks, at least 20 of which have had nothing but dust on them since I acquired 'em). But you will need a few blocks and flanges, and a flange stand, and a rounding jack, and sanding equipment. Specialized machinery is just wonderful, but it is also scarce and usually quite costly. For now, you can get by without it.
The processes involved in making new hats, and refurbishing old ones, are simple and straightforward, which is not to say they are easy to master. The processes involved in many things are easy to comprehend (coronary artery bypass surgery is just cutting and sewing, after all). But there is no substitute for hands-on practice, and lots of it.
Daniele Tanto
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,253
- Location
- Verona - Italia
Mikael,
if you have the chances to work in Borsalino or in Cervo I think you call yourself very lucky.
Remember that most of the hats you see actualy (new, vintage and old) were made in small, medium, great factories during the year.
You can see many examples on the German/Austrian thread in which Steve provided many photos and information about the production (very high end) of that part of Europe.
It could be usefull for you to see the production works and the final hats.
Enjoy!
EstherWeis
Vendor
- Messages
- 2,615
- Location
- Antwerp
If you're in the neighbourhood of Belgium, feel free to pass by my workshop !
Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
There are often millinery courses whilst some techniques from Millinery to Hatting are the same , others are different. Not just making but also selling. If looking at millinery courses - consider look for "historical or theatrical" courses that may deal with traditional hats not just modern fashion.
Getting a job at hat factory can help. But they may not like people if intention is to starting up on own.
Tour as many shop / workshops as find - look of photos of old hat workshops.
Read , read more , and read more again. Hatters may be happy to help out but ideally you have done a lot of homework before so can speak at same level and ask intelligent questions.
The practice, practice and again practice.
"Trial and Error" is a tested method but I do prefer "Trial and not much Error" technique
, not just making but Read, more reading, find old text books read more.
Getting a job at hat factory can help. But they may not like people if intention is to starting up on own.
Tour as many shop / workshops as find - look of photos of old hat workshops.
Read , read more , and read more again. Hatters may be happy to help out but ideally you have done a lot of homework before so can speak at same level and ask intelligent questions.
The practice, practice and again practice.
"Trial and Error" is a tested method but I do prefer "Trial and not much Error" technique
, not just making but Read, more reading, find old text books read more.
There are often millinery courses whilst some techniques from Millinery to Hatting are the same , others are different. Not just making but also selling. If looking at millinery courses - consider look for "historical or theatrical" courses that may deal with traditional hats not just modern fashion.
Getting a job at hat factory can help. But they may not like people if intention is to starting up on own.
Tour as many shop / workshops as find - look of photos of old hat workshops.
Read , read more , and read more again. Hatters may be happy to help out but ideally you have done a lot of homework before so can speak at same level and ask intelligent questions.
The practice, practice and again practice.
"Trial and Error" is a tested method but I do prefer "Trial and not much Error" technique
, not just making but Read, more reading, find old text books read more.
I fully agree with that approach, thanks for your insight!
Featured products
-
Alden 403 Moc Toe Boot - Brown Chromexcel - $680 The classic "Indy" style Alden Boot in the classic Horween brown Chromexcel. -
Grant Stone Diesel Boot Dark Olive Chromexcel - #395 Goodyear welted, Horween Chromexcel, classic good looks. -
Himel Bros. - The Ross Mk. 1 Leather Jacket Classic D-pocket motorcycle/aviator style jacket.
The Wiser Hatter
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,765
- Location
- Louisville, Ky
Mike Moore of Buckaroo hatters will do a trading coarse on becoming a hatter. Art has an apprentice presently.
Might want check with Mike about the cost of his class.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Might want check with Mike about the cost of his class.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Joao Encarnado
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 7,776
- Location
- Portugal
Now that would be a great news for me if I was in the US.
- Messages
- 10,585
- Location
- Boston area
It's TIME, Joao. The country awaits your arrival! As (some) said in the States, "Git 'er done..."
Joao Encarnado
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 7,776
- Location
- Portugal
I would go but there are some things that are killing me.
ariahokas
Familiar Face
- Messages
- 65
- Location
- Malmö, Sweden
Hey Mikael, I am Sweden too. Let's start a shop.
ChicagoWayVito
Practically Family
- Messages
- 699
Hi Mikael,
I am in a similar position as you. I started my journey about a year and a half ago and so far have made about 25 hats.
To get started I would suggest reading Scientific Hat Finishing and Renovating, visit this site and you can download a copy of the book for free. It was published in 1919.
https://archive.org/details/scientifichatfin00erma
Not all Hatters out there are willing to share their craft and secrets. I know because I have asked several but don't let that discourage you as there are still many that will work with you. I made two trips to Salt Lake City, Utah and worked with JW of JW Hats (www.jwhats.com) and in fact am returning this September for another week and to pickup a bunch of blocks that I ordered. Another Master Hatter has agreed to let me speed two days with him in November. Keep contacting hatters and someone will help you.
TonyB has given you lots of great advice. Don't be tempted to get a brim break/plating machine right away or a crown iron as you can do all that work by hand. Yes it takes longer but it will build your skillset and increase the craftsmanship of your work. I will reiterate was TonyB mentioned about getting started. You will need a few blocks, flanges, flange stand, rounding jack and some way to generate steam.
For the steam, you can be creative. There is a Jiffy Hat Steamer that you can get but it is weak. Being that you are in Europe you have access to some great steam generating irons that will produce 6+ bars of pressure and have a steam boost. I actually have a steam generator on order that is meant for a shower but will be using it for hats.
Pouncing or sanding. You can do this work by hand and do not have to have a spinning table to do this. You will want to get a couple different grits of sand paper ( 220 and 320 grits) to give the felt a nice hand. Some hatters (DBarJ in Las Vegas and Buckaroo Hatters in Covington, TN) also use alcohol to burn the balled up felt that is left from the sanding. When sanding apply and even and consistent pressure but not too much.
Sewing. The machines specific to sewing sweatbands into hats and ribbon on the brim edge are super expensive. The good news is you can also do this work by hand, just requires patience and some determination.
Anyway, there is so much more that I could write. Spend your time on this forum. Also this forum is hard to search so when you find a thread you like then bookmark it. Here is a list of bookmarks that I keep on threads of interest.
Bows take a bow: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/bows-take-a-bow.78580/
Monster Bash…Show Us How you Bash: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/monster-bash-videos-show-us-how-you-bash.85436/
Photos of Hatters Tools: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/photos-of-hatters-tools.27503/page-91#post-2089367
Hat Adornments: ribbons, bots, pins, pugs, leather, etc: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/hat-adornments-ribbons-bows-pins-pugs-leather-etc.62249/
Vintage Millinery Singer Sewing Machines: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vintage-millinery-singer-sewing-machines-sweatbands-binding-ribbons-etc.58160/
Snowflake & Star Vent Hole Template: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/snowflake-star-vent-hole-template.82749/
German & Austrian Hutmachers: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/german-austrian-hutmachers.32103/
Making A New Hat (JW Hats): http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/making-a-new-hat.12662/page-5#post-531929
GOOD LUCK TO YOU!
I am in a similar position as you. I started my journey about a year and a half ago and so far have made about 25 hats.
To get started I would suggest reading Scientific Hat Finishing and Renovating, visit this site and you can download a copy of the book for free. It was published in 1919.
https://archive.org/details/scientifichatfin00erma
Not all Hatters out there are willing to share their craft and secrets. I know because I have asked several but don't let that discourage you as there are still many that will work with you. I made two trips to Salt Lake City, Utah and worked with JW of JW Hats (www.jwhats.com) and in fact am returning this September for another week and to pickup a bunch of blocks that I ordered. Another Master Hatter has agreed to let me speed two days with him in November. Keep contacting hatters and someone will help you.
TonyB has given you lots of great advice. Don't be tempted to get a brim break/plating machine right away or a crown iron as you can do all that work by hand. Yes it takes longer but it will build your skillset and increase the craftsmanship of your work. I will reiterate was TonyB mentioned about getting started. You will need a few blocks, flanges, flange stand, rounding jack and some way to generate steam.
For the steam, you can be creative. There is a Jiffy Hat Steamer that you can get but it is weak. Being that you are in Europe you have access to some great steam generating irons that will produce 6+ bars of pressure and have a steam boost. I actually have a steam generator on order that is meant for a shower but will be using it for hats.
Pouncing or sanding. You can do this work by hand and do not have to have a spinning table to do this. You will want to get a couple different grits of sand paper ( 220 and 320 grits) to give the felt a nice hand. Some hatters (DBarJ in Las Vegas and Buckaroo Hatters in Covington, TN) also use alcohol to burn the balled up felt that is left from the sanding. When sanding apply and even and consistent pressure but not too much.
Sewing. The machines specific to sewing sweatbands into hats and ribbon on the brim edge are super expensive. The good news is you can also do this work by hand, just requires patience and some determination.
Anyway, there is so much more that I could write. Spend your time on this forum. Also this forum is hard to search so when you find a thread you like then bookmark it. Here is a list of bookmarks that I keep on threads of interest.
Bows take a bow: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/bows-take-a-bow.78580/
Monster Bash…Show Us How you Bash: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/monster-bash-videos-show-us-how-you-bash.85436/
Photos of Hatters Tools: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/photos-of-hatters-tools.27503/page-91#post-2089367
Hat Adornments: ribbons, bots, pins, pugs, leather, etc: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/hat-adornments-ribbons-bows-pins-pugs-leather-etc.62249/
Vintage Millinery Singer Sewing Machines: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vintage-millinery-singer-sewing-machines-sweatbands-binding-ribbons-etc.58160/
Snowflake & Star Vent Hole Template: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/snowflake-star-vent-hole-template.82749/
German & Austrian Hutmachers: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/german-austrian-hutmachers.32103/
Making A New Hat (JW Hats): http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/making-a-new-hat.12662/page-5#post-531929
GOOD LUCK TO YOU!
bendingoak
Vendor
- Messages
- 613
- Location
- www.Penmanhats.com
My advise to you is to realize this will take a lot of money, lot of time, a lot of Experimenting.
Don't be afraid to crack a few eggs or in this case wreak felt bodies. Start with Cheap felt to save cost but somewhere you will have to work with better stuff to really learn. You will have to spend lots $$$$ to do it right.
One thing you should really do that most do not do. Any advise you are given by any hatter is to test what they tell you. It is the only way to have intimate knowledge of what you are doing.
What I have noticed that a lot of hat makers do is they are showed something that yields good results and they stop with that. Even hat makers with many years under their belt. challenge everything.
Don't be afraid to crack a few eggs or in this case wreak felt bodies. Start with Cheap felt to save cost but somewhere you will have to work with better stuff to really learn. You will have to spend lots $$$$ to do it right.
One thing you should really do that most do not do. Any advise you are given by any hatter is to test what they tell you. It is the only way to have intimate knowledge of what you are doing.
What I have noticed that a lot of hat makers do is they are showed something that yields good results and they stop with that. Even hat makers with many years under their belt. challenge everything.
