AUTHENTICITY CHECK... Real McCoy's J-100

[Bender]

Hoping I could borrow the forum's expertise here... Does anything about this jacket read wrong to you Lords of Leather? Stitching, materials, label? Or does it look good?

Just bought this, these are seller pics. It's described as new without tags. I've seen similar brown versions before, they pop up on eBay or Buyee JPN occasionally, but I haven't seen one with a wine-red lining before. Very cool.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Blackadder]

Hoping I could borrow the forum's expertise here... Does anything about this jacket read wrong to you Lord of Leather? Stitching, materials, label? Or does it look good?

Just bought this, these are seller pics. It's described as new without tags. I've seen similar brown versions before, they pop up on eBay or Buyee JPN occasionally, but I haven't seen one with a wine-red lining before. Very cool.

Thanks for your help!

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There is normally a Real McCoy's label in the pocket.
Here is a link of the same jacket.
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1109240162
Another one in size 36
https://fashion.aucfan.com/yahoo/x1024768425/

 

[cbez]

looks legit. if its a fake its good enough lol.

 

[Observe]

Looks real (McCoy's) to me.

 

[Bender]

There is normally a Real McCoy's label in the pocket.
Here is a link of the same jacket.
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1109240162
Another one in size 36
https://fashion.aucfan.com/yahoo/x1024768425/

Thanks for that, very appreciated.

Those auction links bring up another question though! I noticed that both those jackets have measurements that are way smaller than their corresponding sizes on the RMC's website.

For instance, that first auction link is a size 40 with shoulders a hair over 16", or roughly 3" narrower than the shoulders of a size 40 on the RMC website... in fact, more than half an inch narrower than the current size 34!

Am I right to assume that the jackets in the auctions you linked are the older model, the BJ9110, which was apparently much slimmer than the current BJ19110?

And the important question... have you ever seen any brown / wine lining current model BJ19100 jackets?

This one I've shared was listed as a BJ19100, with measurements (no measuring tape pics) that matched up with the current specs on RMC's website.

What weirds me out a bit is that most wooden hangers are around 17.5" wide... it's a little hard to tell, but in some pics it looks like the hanger ends extend past the shoulder seam? Could be an illusion, or maybe supple jackets with 19" shoulders can hang that way, but it's got me a bit spooked that it points to a jacket with 16" shoulders, like the 40 in the auction you linked. In other words, way too small.

What do you think? Are there any other telltale signs that point to this jacket being either the older BJ9100 or the current BJ19100? The leather, or small changes to the stitching, etc etc?

Many thanks!

 

[Blackadder]

Thanks for that, very appreciated.

Those auction links bring up another question though! I noticed that both those jackets have measurements that are way smaller than their corresponding sizes on the RMC's website.

For instance, that first auction link is a size 40 with shoulders a hair over 16", or roughly 3" narrower than the shoulders of a size 40 on the RMC website... in fact, more than half an inch narrower than the current size 34!

Am I right to assume that the jackets in the auctions you linked are the older model, the BJ9110, which was apparently much slimmer than the current BJ19110?

And the important question... have you ever seen any brown / wine lining current model BJ19100 jackets?

This one I've shared was listed as a BJ19100, with measurements (no measuring tape pics) that matched up with the current specs on RMC's website.

What weirds me out a bit is that most wooden hangers are around 17.5" wide... it's a little hard to tell, but in some pics it looks like the hanger ends extend past the shoulder seam? Could be an illusion, or maybe supple jackets with 19" shoulders can hang that way, but it's got me a bit spooked that it points to a jacket with 16" shoulders, like the 40 in the auction you linked. In other words, way too small.

What do you think? Are there any other telltale signs that point to this jacket being either the older BJ9100 or the current BJ19100? The leather, or small changes to the stitching, etc etc?

Many thanks!

1) I am not sure they have made the 19110 in this shade of brown. I don't remember seeing them making this colour in the last few years. 19110 means 2019 model. 9110 means 2009 model. IMO it is a 9110 and not 19110.
You can see the 2013 blog of a dealer that I think is the only time RM issued this light brown with wine lining.
http://www.0308.net/jrblog2/2013/11/entry_2965/
2) the 9110 does not seem to be slimmer than 19110
https://therealmccoys.jp/products/bj9110/030-blk#size_guide
https://therealmccoys.jp/products/bj19110/030-blk#size_guide
I have no experience with this special colour but the measurements of the size 40 even if it is 9110 is way off. RM's link above is quite accurate cos my 9110 in black size 36 is 49 cm chest. If you look at the link of the light brown size 36, you see the chest listed as 48.5cm. A size 40 having 50cm chest if true is probably a defective product.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I also don’t think it’s a BJ19110. I’ve only seen black ones in the new fit so far.

Old fit has more taper in the torso, new fit has less taper but wider and flatter slope shoulder, very different cuts. The way the brown jacket hangs on the hanger looks like the old fit. I had one in size 42 it had 22.5” P2P, but fits smaller. The old fit size 40 should be about 17.5” shoulder, 21.5”P2P and drops to about 19.5 ish at the waist and hem.

Post in thread 'Real Mccoys Mobster and J-100 For Sale!'
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/real-mccoys-mobster-and-j-100-for-sale.112098/post-3038083

Post in thread 'The Real McCoy’s J-100 fit comparison between the old model (BJ9110) and new model (BJ19110)'
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...110-and-new-model-bj19110.112875/post-3053755

 

[Bender]

1) I am not sure they have made the 19110 in this shade of brown. I don't remember seeing them making this colour in the last few years. 19110 means 2019 model. 9110 means 2009 model. IMO it is a 9110 and not 19110.
You can see the 2013 blog of a dealer that I think is the only time RM issued this light brown with wine lining.
http://www.0308.net/jrblog2/2013/11/entry_2965/
2) the 9110 does not seem to be slimmer than 19110
https://therealmccoys.jp/products/bj9110/030-blk#size_guide
https://therealmccoys.jp/products/bj19110/030-blk#size_guide
I have no experience with this special colour but the measurements of the size 40 even if it is 9110 is way off. RM's link above is quite accurate cos my 9110 in black size 36 is 49 cm chest. If you look at the link of the light brown size 36, you see the chest listed as 48.5cm. A size 40 having 50cm chest if true is probably a defective product.

Thanks so much for this... that 9110 chart is very, very enlightening. Some guys talk about the two fits like you need to go two sizes up in the old bs the new... doesn't appear that's the case? If I'm a 40 in the new, I'll fit into a 40 in the old?

 

[Bender]

I also don’t think it’s a BJ19110. I’ve only seen black ones in the new fit so far.

Old fit has more taper in the torso, new fit has less taper but wider and flatter slope shoulder, very different cuts. The way the brown jacket hangs on the hanger looks like the old fit. I had one in size 42 it had 22.5” P2P, but fits smaller. The old fit size 40 should be about 17.5” shoulder, 21.5”P2P and drops to about 19.5 ish at the waist and hem.

Post in thread 'Real Mccoys Mobster and J-100 For Sale!'
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/real-mccoys-mobster-and-j-100-for-sale.112098/post-3038083

Post in thread 'The Real McCoy’s J-100 fit comparison between the old model (BJ9110) and new model (BJ19110)'
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-real-mccoy’s-j-100-fit-comparison-between-the-old-model-bj9110-and-new-model-bj19110.112875/post-3053755

Thanks for this!

Quick question- the RMC 9110 size chart Blackadder linked to shows the 40 as having roughly 18.9" shoulders, same as the current 19110... however you reckon around 17.5" shoulders for a size 40 9110, a figure I'm assuming you arrived at via your experience with your size 42 9110... have you found the 9110 runs tighter in the shoulder than what RMC claims?

 

[Blackadder]

Thanks so much for this... that 9110 chart is very, very enlightening. Some guys talk about the two fits like you need to go two sizes up in the old bs the new... doesn't appear that's the case? If I'm a 40 in the new, I'll fit into a 40 in the old?

The thing is as Canuck Panda has pointed out, there are other aspects that contribute to how one feel wearing a jacket. Apart from the rather 2D measurements like chest, waist, the armhole width is a part that people often overlook. With a large armhole, you will feel less tight and it offers more leeway for you. With a tight armhole, you need a jacket that fits your shoulder perfectly to not feel restricted. If the shoulder is too wide for you but with tight armhole,
it is will feels like it is pulling against you when you raise your arm.

 

[Canuck Panda]

The sizing is always very confusing, especially with the non existent CS from RMC... They rely on all the articles in the Japanese magazines and bunch of Japanese language only blogs but we don't get a lot of them here outside of Japan.

I will try to explain a bit from what I know, adding on top of what Blackadder said about armhole and torso cutting and sleeve attachment angle.

The old fit J-100 is tagged two sizes down from the 60s original, as stated in the magazine article I posted. But we gotta keep in mind that this is how Buco sold their J-100 jacket as, as a jacket with relaxed fitting, per their ad:

So when RMC first reproduced the J-100 they tagged it two size down to give the wearer the Ross Langlitz fit back in the day, like this:

And if you wear the old fit in your normal chest size, it's gonna fit like Ross above, and this was the case for me,

BUT it's really too tight for every day wear and I am not as cool as Ross. So I would personally prefer the next size up, which would still be one size down from what Buco has originally intended.

Now the new fit, is a totally different cut than the old fit, and not quite the same as the original, but I do think it's based on an original Buco Style King which had the different cut than the J-100. That is my best guess looking at the photos. And this different cut has wider but very flat shoulder and narrower and straighter torso, slim long, and lower armholes, and wider upper sleeves because of that lower armhole and the sharp angle of sleeve attachment. My Rainbow Country racer has this cutting, it has the additional action back for better mobility. To my best guess, the new fit J-100 is the same cut as my RC racer but without the action pleats. And is why I prefer the old vintage cut J-100 better.

The interesting thing about the old fit J-100 size 42 is that while it measures only 18" across the shoulder, it actually has 19.5" shoulder arc (linear width), this does make RMC's original downsizing possible, especially with the wide angled sleeve attachment.

So, my suggestion for fit for the RMC old fit J-100 is,

1) wear your chest size if you the Ross Langlitz look and kick ass but really really tight.
2) go up one size for the usual T-shirt fit look and less kick ass but can get through the day easily with a t shirt
3) go up two sizes for the fit Buco originally intended, not quite oversize, just with some room and not busting out, very conservative look, can wear even a wool vest layer underneath if need to.

I am a fan of the new fit for the J-24, Mobster...etc. but I do think the J-100 old fit is better, just have to pick the right tag size to suit your needs.

 

[Bender]

Wow! Very cool post. The linear shoulder width example is very helpful. Thanks!