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[Emilis]

The questions keep coming...

What kind of sponge should I look for, if a store doesn't have a hat sponge?

In regards to coconut oil in hatting, is there a specific kind of coconut oil that I should be looking for, or any of them are fine? Because today I almost bought one, but then I saw on the side a label with 'used for cooking', so I put it away...

 

[deadlyhandsome]

The reason being that you can basically make a 'one size fits all' type of hat. One brand makes some of their hats with a elastic sweatband, and it states that heads sized 56cm to 60cm can wear them.

“One size fits all” is a lie! A slightly smaller lie is “one size fits most”. A properly fitted hat with a soft supple leather sweatband is a wonderful thing. You’ll find that among those who have become accustomed to nice hats that we mostly insist on fitted hats. Cloth sweatbands and non-fitted sizes are common indicators of lower quality hats. Now don’t get me wrong, I have several low quality hats that I wear and wouldn’t want to be without for gardening or working where the hat can be expected to get dirty or damaged.

 

[Emilis]

“One size fits all” is a lie! A slightly smaller lie is “one size fits most”. A properly fitted hat with a soft supple leather sweatband is a wonderful thing. You’ll find that among those who have become accustomed to nice hats that we mostly insist on fitted hats. Cloth sweatbands and non-fitted sizes are common indicators of lower quality hats. Now don’t get me wrong, I have several low quality hats that I wear and wouldn’t want to be without for gardening or working where the hat can be expected to get dirty or damaged.

You're right, but the idea is to fit heads sized 56-60cm, not all. Or you think the elastic sweatband wouldn't work on such a wide scale of heads?

 

[deadlyhandsome]

The questions keep coming...

What kind of sponge should I look for, if a store doesn't have a hat sponge?

In regards to coconut oil in hatting, is there a specific kind of coconut oil that I should be looking for, or any of them are fine? Because today I almost bought one, but then I saw on the side a label with 'used for cooking', so I put it away...

Go online and buy a hat sponge. Amazon sells them.

What are you doing with the coconut oil? Are you luring felt or restoring “straw?” Most of us don’t use coconut oil for anything involving hats. I’ve tried using it to restore toquilla straw, but that’s it. I used virgin coconut oil I bought in a grocery store.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

You're right, but the idea is to fit heads sized 56-60cm, not all. Or you think the elastic sweatband wouldn't work on such a wide scale of heads?

That means the hat is supposed to fit five hat sizes! It never works out. Some will be loose, some will be tight, and one will fit just right...and then you’re still stuck with some sort of cloth rather than the more comfortable and conforming leather sweatband. To each their own, but it’s not for me.

 

[jlee562]

In regards to the 2nd question, I was talking about the edge of the brim, not the sweatband. Sorry for confusing you kind sir!

Brim binding is mostly aesthetic, though it does seem to add some structure and helps retain the snap of a brim.

Wires are generally not used in men's hats (though there are exceptions) and when we do see them in modern hats, they are mostly low quality wool hats because wool felt won't hold its shape as well as fur felt.

 

[belfastboy]

That means the hat is supposed to fit five hat sizes! It never works out. Some will be loose, some will be tight, and one will fit just right...and then you’re still stuck with some sort of cloth rather than the more comfortable and conforming leather sweatband. To each their own, but it’s not for me.

I won't even buy a baseball cap unless it is specifically sized to my head. Hats marked M, L or XL that are designed to fit two head sizes are destined to piss off everyone. Emilis what you need to determine is what kind of hatter are you? If you wish to produce hats as cheaply as you can and sell them for what you can OR if you want to be a real custom hatter making fine hats for the discerning man then come to terms with that. Do you want to make hats you are proud to have your name on? Or are you content to make cheap crap for the throw away market? If you want to produce good custom hats then I suggest you SLOW down, slowly accumulate the proper tools with which to produce hats. Even if you start out buying one block, one flange for a 7 1/4" sized head (the majority of modern men fit this profile) you can at least be proud of being able to make a good hat for at least that one size. Then as you accumulate money you can add to your tool kit. Mike at NW Hats was a part time hatter for 10 whole years while he honed his craft, accumulated the blocks/flanges necessary then he opened his shop.

 

[belfastboy]

Go online and buy a hat sponge. Amazon sells them.

What are you doing with the coconut oil? Are you luring felt or restoring “straw?” Most of us don’t use coconut oil for anything involving hats. I’ve tried using it to restore toquilla straw, but that’s it. I used virgin coconut oil I bought in a grocery store.

Buy two as you need one for light coloured hats and another for dark. They are very cheap to buy.

 

[belfastboy]

In regards to the 2nd question, I was talking about the edge of the brim, not the sweatband. Sorry for confusing you kind sir!

Yes, that is just standard brim binding, largely for fashion as JLee stated it does add some stability to the brim. I only know one hatter that uses wire in the brim and she is also a milliner. Unless you are doing something unusual and flamboyant with the brim the wire is not needed in a man's hat. Flange it properly and you get all the snap you need in the brim.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Buy two as you need one for light coloured hats and another for dark. They are very cheap to buy.

Mine are all orange, but I recall Jared found a source for the lighter sponges. It would help me distinguish them if I could find them.

 

[Zombie_61]

"Jockey" branded or "Fruit of the Loom" branded hats?

Nope.

 

[Emilis]

Go online and buy a hat sponge. Amazon sells them.

What are you doing with the coconut oil? Are you luring felt or restoring “straw?” Most of us don’t use coconut oil for anything involving hats. I’ve tried using it to restore toquilla straw, but that’s it. I used virgin coconut oil I bought in a grocery store.

Coconut oil brings out the colour in a felt, according to the legend himself - Art Fawcett.

 

[Emilis]

I won't even buy a baseball cap unless it is specifically sized to my head. Hats marked M, L or XL that are designed to fit two head sizes are destined to piss off everyone. Emilis what you need to determine is what kind of hatter are you? If you wish to produce hats as cheaply as you can and sell them for what you can OR if you want to be a real custom hatter making fine hats for the discerning man then come to terms with that. Do you want to make hats you are proud to have your name on? Or are you content to make cheap crap for the throw away market? If you want to produce good custom hats then I suggest you SLOW down, slowly accumulate the proper tools with which to produce hats. Even if you start out buying one block, one flange for a 7 1/4" sized head (the majority of modern men fit this profile) you can at least be proud of being able to make a good hat for at least that one size. Then as you accumulate money you can add to your tool kit. Mike at NW Hats was a part time hatter for 10 whole years while he honed his craft, accumulated the blocks/flanges necessary then he opened his shop.

I totally understand where are you coming from my friend, I'm just gathering as much useful information as possible. I'm more interested in leather sweatbands myself. And thank you for the motivating story!

 

[Emilis]

Yes, that is just standard brim binding, largely for fashion as JLee stated it does add some stability to the brim. I only know one hatter that uses wire in the brim and she is also a milliner. Unless you are doing something unusual and flamboyant with the brim the wire is not needed in a man's hat. Flange it properly and you get all the snap you need in the brim.

I'm actually won't be needing a flange, as I'm not going for a traditional style of fedoras brim. Attaching a few pictures of what I will be going for... THOUGHTS?

 

[jlee562]

You need a flange.

 

[Emilis]

You need a flange.

As far as I know, for the style of brim that I'm going for, I don't require a flange. Could you please elaborate on that?

 

[jlee562]

As far as I know, for the style of brim that I'm going for, I don't require a flange. Could you please elaborate on that?

Ok, we are entering Dunning-Kruger territory here now.

The hats you just posted both have flanged brims.

The only style of hat for which you would not need a flange is a completely flat brim, like a Boss of the Plains, or gaucho style. Not only are the vast majority of men's hats produced with a flange, historically they were periodically re-blocked and re-flanged to restore their shape. An unflanged brim, or a brim that needs to be re-flanged, looks disheveled and does not hold its shape.

 

[Emilis]

Ok, we are entering Dunning-Kruger territory here now.

The hats you just posted both have flanged brims.

The only style of hat for which you would not need a flange is a completely flat brim, like a Boss of the Plains, or gaucho style. Not only are the vast majority of men's hats produced with a flange, historically they were periodically re-blocked and re-flanged to restore their shape. An unflanged brim, or a brim that needs to be re-flanged, looks disheveled and does not hold its shape.

Thank you for your answer kind sir. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to overestimate my abilities, not at all! I'm here to learn. And everything that I'm saying, is something that someone in this group have already told me.

Could you please explain to me, which flange was used, in your opinion, to make this brim? Because I'm quite confused right now.

 

[Emilis]

Another question...

I've been doing my research on hat steamer alternatives and I came across an idea of buying a wallpaper stripper steamer, cutting off the hose to 4 to 6", and theres your hat steamer! I need opinions on this. Thank you in advance everyone!

 

[belfastboy]

Another question...

I've been doing my research on hat steamer alternatives and I came across an idea of buying a wallpaper stripper steamer, cutting off the hose to 4 to 6", and theres your hat steamer! I need opinions on this. Thank you in advance everyone!

I use a Rowenta hand held that I paid about $50 US for. It produces lots of steam. The only downside is that the reservoir is on the small side and needs to be refilled often. But not a deal breaker as the price was so good. Works much better than my wife's big floor model seamstress steamer with the huge reservoir.....it just doesn't produce enough steam for a hat.