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Desert dog

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,291
Location
California
I have been wanting a standard OR or clone in silverbelly to add to the rotation. I Got frustrated in finding a decent one at a decent price so for father's day I ordered a silver belly akubra campdraft (since I was pleased with my BGCD I ordered a year earlier). Without going into detail I am very disappointed in this hat, no comparison to the BGCD. Anway I recently came across this resistol OR clone a 4x "saddler" for a decent price. Was wondering if anybody can confirm the age 1970s or 1980s? Just got it today and need to try and spot clean it before it gets any head time. Thanks.
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Nice find! Good looking Saddler. I would guess seventies, based on the liner, sweat and size tag. The Resistol Western liner would not have Byer Rolnick on it, even pre '68.

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Steinbockhase

Practically Family
Messages
514
Location
Munich, Bavaria, Germany
I have read several discussions and articles in different hat forums concerning the Stetson fur felt quality range.
As I have learned, vintage felts are better than newer ones, amount of "X"s are not always meaningful and some classification types (i.e. Imperial) come and go over the years and are difficult to fit into the general quality range.
My questions to the Stetson experts here:
Would it be correct to say that a Stetson "Excellent" is usually top of the list and always 100% beaver fur felt?
Is a Stetson "Imperial" usually more like a fuzzy mainly beaver fur felt (that's how I have seen them), listed somewhere comparable to a Royal Deluxe?
Where exactly does a Sovereign fit into the range? (I have seen it listed above and below Royal Deluxe)
I know there is not really much consensus on this topic, but maybe somebody with more insight can break this down for me.
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,104
Location
San Francisco, CA
I have read several discussions and articles in different hat forums concerning the Stetson fur felt quality range.
As I have learned, vintage felts are better than newer ones, amount of "X"s are not always meaningful and some classification types (i.e. Imperial) come and go over the years and are difficult to fit into the general quality range.
My questions to the Stetson experts here:
Would it be correct to say that a Stetson "Excellent" is usually top of the list and always 100% beaver fur felt?
Is a Stetson "Imperial" usually more like a fuzzy mainly beaver fur felt (that's how I have seen them), listed somewhere comparable to a Royal Deluxe?
Where exactly does a Sovereign fit into the range? (I have seen it listed above and below Royal Deluxe)
I know there is not really much consensus on this topic, but maybe somebody with more insight can break this down for me.

AFAIK, the Excellent Designation for 100% beaver is relatively recent. It is currently true that Excellent is the highest grade.

Imperial Hats are often, but not always, long hair finishes. See, Alan's 30's-40's Imperial, for example. Imperial should be higher than Sovereign, which is higher than Royal Deluxe (at least according to this 1963 ad)
 
Messages
19,434
Location
Funkytown, USA
AFAIK, the Excellent Designation for 100% beaver is relatively recent. It is currently true that Excellent is the highest grade.

Imperial Hats are often, but not always, long hair finishes. See, Alan's 30's-40's Imperial, for example. Imperial should be higher than Sovereign, which is higher than Royal Deluxe (at least according to this 1963 ad)

I think they had an Excellent designation in the 20s-30s, but it seemed to disappear for some time. I believe Deckard brought it back.


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jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,104
Location
San Francisco, CA
I think they had an Excellent designation in the 20s-30s, but it seemed to disappear for some time. I believe Deckard brought it back.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

Yes, I have a 1920's Exposition Homburg marked Excellent Quality.

Thanks, gents. I probably should have remembered that one. I did know of Standard and Select Quality on those earlier Stetsons.
 
Messages
12,021
Location
East of Los Angeles
Interestingly enough, my Heritage grade, unlike others, was the most oversized upon receiving. It's still the most roomy, but it certainly fits. The "Fedora," my first Akubra, fit out of the box and hasn't changed.
It always intrigues me when someone says the fit of their Akubra hasn't changed, because all six of mine shrunk within the first three to seven days to fit better than they did out of the box. :confused:
 
Messages
19,434
Location
Funkytown, USA
I also have a 1910's John B. Stetson Select Quality Derby. Similar to that worn by Dr. Henry H. Holmes (1861 -1896) I would imagine. Thanks again to Fruno for his recommendation on the book.

View attachment 131277

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Just please, if you are stricken with the urge to move to Chicago and buy a large building resist it.

At the time, "Standard" was their highest quality.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
 
Messages
18,222
Just please, if you are stricken with the urge to move to Chicago and buy a large building resist it.

At the time, "Standard" was their highest quality.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
Just waiting for the DiCaprio/Scorsese movie based on the book to come out. It has to be better than Disney's Christopher Robin, Crazy Rich Asians, The Meg, or any of that other crap that's at theaters now.

Or maybe I should have made yet another post about Akubra shrinkage?
 
Messages
19,434
Location
Funkytown, USA
Just waiting for the DiCaprio/Scorsese movie based on the book to come out. It has to be better than Disney's Christopher Robin, Crazy Rich Asians, The Meg, or any of that other crap that's at theaters now.

Or maybe I should have made yet another post about Akubra shrinkage?

I didn't know a flick was in the works. 50/50 on DiCaprio. I really like him as an actor, but not sure of this role. I'm assuming he's playing Holmes?

Either way, happy to see it made; I'll certainly give it a go.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Hey, I've seen Cavanaghs listed as "wool felt". That is nonsense, right?

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It’s hard to say. Sometimes fur felt is mistakenly listed as wool felt, suede, etc. However, there is wool felt and lots of hats were/are made with it. You can felt lots of different materials (someday I’ll own one of the old plastic felt hat). Some of the old wool felts were very nice and nothing like the cheap hats we now associate them with. There also were the stiff hats (bowlers/derbies) that were wool felt.


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Steinbockhase

Practically Family
Messages
514
Location
Munich, Bavaria, Germany
I made a good deal on eBay for this Wegener fur felt top-hat (waiting for delivery).
It seems to be in very good condition, but has a larger stain on the top.

Wegener-TopHat-1.jpg
Wegener-TopHat-2.jpg


Brushing and steam might not be enough to remove the stain; what kind of cleaning agent or powder cleaner can I use?
Is there a thread in FL for "cleaning fur felt"?
 

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