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daddy0d0

A-List Customer
Messages
452
Location
Maryland
HELP! Now I can't seem to upload any pictures from my iPhone. No regular mode and no selfie mode. I knew "I have a face only a mother could love and "a great face for radio" but this is ridiculous:D
 

Woodtroll

One Too Many
Messages
1,264
Location
Mtns. of SW Virginia
Folks, I'm new here, having found the site and lurking around for a year or so. I finally decided to sign up and now I have a question: What are the distinguishing features between a "country" and "city" style hat? Maybe this applies more to the Akubras, which I have been studying for a year or so as I try to decide what suits me best.

I've always lived most of my life outside and always worn brimmed hats, usually 3-1/2" or 4" brims, for protection against sun and rain. I've recently been trying to find a brimmed fedora-style hat that blends protection with a little more "style" or "dress" to wear to town, church, outdoor weddings, etc. I like my hats with brims turned down both front and back (again, the outdoors protection thing). I'm a big guy though, 6'-2", 265 lbs., broad shoulders and an oval to rounded face. In my recent attempts to look "dressier", I've found a smaller hat like the Bailey Fairbanks with a 4" or so crown and a 2-3/8" brim just looks silly on me (I wear a 7-3/4 / 62 hat, so it's somewhat a matter of proportion). I think something like an Akubra Adventurer or Campdraft, for example, is as small as I can go and not look like a cartoon character. The Campdraft looks like a dress hat to me with its fancy bow and trimmed edge, but seems to be considered a country hat.

So I'm looking for a bigger hat for dressier functions, but see that most hats with broader brims and taller crowns seem to be considered "country" hats. I'm not offended by that, since there are still a lot of hillbillies in my part of the southern Appalachians, but I've become curious as to the differences between the two styles. Again, I don't think I'll get run out for wearing a "country" hat to town, just wondering what the guidelines were? Any suggestions for a big ol' boy like me?

Thanks for your consideration,
Regan
 
Messages
19,430
Location
Funkytown, USA
Folks, I'm new here, having found the site and lurking around for a year or so. I finally decided to sign up and now I have a question: What are the distinguishing features between a "country" and "city" style hat? Maybe this applies more to the Akubras, which I have been studying for a year or so as I try to decide what suits me best.

I've always lived most of my life outside and always worn brimmed hats, usually 3-1/2" or 4" brims, for protection against sun and rain. I've recently been trying to find a brimmed fedora-style hat that blends protection with a little more "style" or "dress" to wear to town, church, outdoor weddings, etc. I like my hats with brims turned down both front and back (again, the outdoors protection thing). I'm a big guy though, 6'-2", 265 lbs., broad shoulders and an oval to rounded face. In my recent attempts to look "dressier", I've found a smaller hat like the Bailey Fairbanks with a 4" or so crown and a 2-3/8" brim just looks silly on me (I wear a 7-3/4 / 62 hat, so it's somewhat a matter of proportion). I think something like an Akubra Adventurer or Campdraft, for example, is as small as I can go and not look like a cartoon character. The Campdraft looks like a dress hat to me with its fancy bow and trimmed edge, but seems to be considered a country hat.

So I'm looking for a bigger hat for dressier functions, but see that most hats with broader brims and taller crowns seem to be considered "country" hats. I'm not offended by that, since there are still a lot of hillbillies in my part of the southern Appalachians, but I've become curious as to the differences between the two styles. Again, I don't think I'll get run out for wearing a "country" hat to town, just wondering what the guidelines were? Any suggestions for a big ol' boy like me?

Thanks for your consideration,
Regan

First, welcome to the Lounge, Woodtroll. If you know what's good for you, you'll want to run away now, as we'll corrupt you into a hat fanatic.

As to your question, and being very broad, I'd say a city hat normally has a shorter brim and probably a wider ribbon - it looks a bit dressier. A country hat tends to have a wider brim and thinner ribbon, and when talking westerns, often a taller crown. Outback hats, as many Akubras are, seem to have broad brims but a lower profile.

The Campdraft, like Stetson's Open Road, is a "city gone country" hat. The CD is made somewhat to the specs of an Open Road, as the CD was the OR when Akubra had the license to make Stetsons down under.

Of course, take all this for what it's worth. I and many here wear all manner in all situations. YMMV.

Again, welcome.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
 
Messages
10,587
Location
Boston area
Folks, I'm new here, having found the site and lurking around for a year or so. I finally decided to sign up and now I have a question: What are the distinguishing features between a "country" and "city" style hat? Maybe this applies more to the Akubras, which I have been studying for a year or so as I try to decide what suits me best.

I've always lived most of my life outside and always worn brimmed hats, usually 3-1/2" or 4" brims, for protection against sun and rain. I've recently been trying to find a brimmed fedora-style hat that blends protection with a little more "style" or "dress" to wear to town, church, outdoor weddings, etc. I like my hats with brims turned down both front and back (again, the outdoors protection thing). I'm a big guy though, 6'-2", 265 lbs., broad shoulders and an oval to rounded face. In my recent attempts to look "dressier", I've found a smaller hat like the Bailey Fairbanks with a 4" or so crown and a 2-3/8" brim just looks silly on me (I wear a 7-3/4 / 62 hat, so it's somewhat a matter of proportion). I think something like an Akubra Adventurer or Campdraft, for example, is as small as I can go and not look like a cartoon character. The Campdraft looks like a dress hat to me with its fancy bow and trimmed edge, but seems to be considered a country hat.

So I'm looking for a bigger hat for dressier functions, but see that most hats with broader brims and taller crowns seem to be considered "country" hats. I'm not offended by that, since there are still a lot of hillbillies in my part of the southern Appalachians, but I've become curious as to the differences between the two styles. Again, I don't think I'll get run out for wearing a "country" hat to town, just wondering what the guidelines were? Any suggestions for a big ol' boy like me?

Thanks for your consideration,
Regan

Greetings Woodtroll, and welcome!

I am not currently quite your proportions, (lost weight, and some height due to having ruptured three discs along the way) but had been for most of my adult life, thus far. So, for me, your question is an easy one... larger brims tend to lean west, or more "Country," whereas "city" (dress) hats generally have more stingy brims. There are no legal rulings to clarify this, but that's my opinion.

As a guy similar in stature, my hat-wearing experience over the last 45 years tells me that our "sweet spot" for brim width in a dress hat is 2-1/4" to 2-5/8". At our size, we can get away with close to 3", but I have had "cowboy Hat" comments in that range. I like western hats, but that wasn't what I was thinking when I left the house that night of the Cowboy comment.

So, to narrow it down, (if you can put any stock in comments from the public) I generally seem to hear that the 2-5/8" non-dimensional brim with a 5-3/4" open crown works best for me. What's cool about that is that the hat in my avatar (my first fedora, purchased as New Old Stock in 1971) is exactly those proportions. I should've stopped there!!!


Don't forget to tilt your hat, (left or right, your choice) and good luck, my friend!

Charlie
 
Last edited:

Woodtroll

One Too Many
Messages
1,264
Location
Mtns. of SW Virginia
Excellent replies, gentlemen, that make sense and help me out a great deal. HatsRme, I really appreciate your very specific information from someone of my same general build. I still love my wide brims for outdoor activities, and am trying to find a happy medium for a dressier hat. The narrower brims just seem so small to me after being sheltered by the wide brims all these years.

Thank you again for your replies!
 
Messages
12,018
Location
East of Los Angeles
First, welcome to The Lounge Woodtroll!

Second, so far the current discussion about "hats for larger Gentleman" has focused on brim width. But aren't crown height and shape just as relevant? I don't consider myself a "big" guy--currently 6' tall and about 170 lbs.--but I've found hats with short and/or tapered crowns on me tend to look like the reservoir tip on a condom. So, in addition to brim width, shouldn't Woodtroll (or almost any "larger Gent") look for hats with tall(ish) crowns with little or no taper?
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,178
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
Welcome, Woodtroll.

A lot of this is personal preference. If I was your size (and I'm not) what I would prefer, thinking of what you want, is a western with a wide-enough brim for you, a front pinch, as opposed to something like a cattleman's crease, and a ribbon of at least 1.5 inches wide/tall, with a standard-style bow on the left. I am partial to the flying V, but there are variations on that type of bow.

Imho, the wide ribbon and front pinch together bring a western-style hat more into the city-hat category. These two things together, along with an appropriately-tall-for-you crown and wide-enough-for-you brim, will keep you from looking like you're wearing a thimble on your head.

But that's just my humble opinion.
 

Woodtroll

One Too Many
Messages
1,264
Location
Mtns. of SW Virginia
Thanks, everyone, I appreciate the help!

Zombie, you're right about the crown height - I alluded to that with the 4" height on the Fairbanks comment (meaning it did not seem quite tall enough), and meant to develop that thought out further but didn't. HatsRme did mention the taller crown, though. I think a taller crown does suit me better.

Scottyrocks, your thoughts are right in line with what I was thinking of trying. I definitely prefer a front pinch, usually with a teardrop. Honestly, for affordable trial hats I'm leaning towards an Akubra Adventurer from David Morgan, and configuring the crown the the teardrop / front pinch. Being a redhead, the brown suits me better, but if I get that hat in dark brown and bash the crown like that then I look like another Indy wannabe, which is NOT my intention. The fawn Campdraft looks like a good choice too, but I don't care for the bound brim (but might settle for it). I could always put a wider ribbon on it.

Thanks again, I appreciate the warm welcome!
 
Messages
12,018
Location
East of Los Angeles
...Scottyrocks, your thoughts are right in line with what I was thinking of trying. I definitely prefer a front pinch, usually with a teardrop. Honestly, for affordable trial hats I'm leaning towards an Akubra Adventurer from David Morgan, and configuring the crown the the teardrop / front pinch. Being a redhead, the brown suits me better, but if I get that hat in dark brown and bash the crown like that then I look like another Indy wannabe, which is NOT my intention...
If you wear a proper fedora these days (i.e., not a Trilby or other "stingy brim" hat that people think is a fedora), at some point you're bound to hear an "Indy" comment or two. I've also been called "cowboy" and "that guy from those Jeepers Creepers movies". *shrug* Most people are simply trying to compliment you using a reference they're familiar with, so I take it as such. And on a few occasions their simple comment(s) led to enjoyable conversations about hats, so it's all good to me.

...The fawn Campdraft looks like a good choice too, but I don't care for the bound brim (but might settle for it). I could always put a wider ribbon on it...
Some members here don't care for Akubra hats, but I'm a fan. My Taupe Fawn Campdraft gets worn a lot, and has become one of my "go to" hats when I'm having trouble deciding which hat to wear on any given day. Like you, when I first started wearing hats I didn't care for bound brims (and still don't like brim bindings that contrast too much with the felt), but the binding on Akubra's Campdrafts are color-matched to the felts as much as possible so they don't draw too much attention to themselves. Some here have replaced the stock ribbon with a wider one, and it looks good on the Campdraft--dresses it up a bit and makes it look at least a bit more like a "city/dress" hat. I've considered it myself, but haven't gotten around to it yet; too many other priorities.
 

johnnycanuck

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,008
Location
Alberta
Woodtroll/Regan
Welcome to the lounge.
As a big man you can pull off a larger hat without it looking large. For Akubra I would say the Campdraft or Federation are great choices mainly because of the open crown. That way you can control how tall your hat is. Federation is more city hat while the campdraft is more of a city/country hat.
What you can also do is go custom. Here is a picture of me in what Art Fawcett calls "The Crossover" a little city a little country, it dips down at the front and back. It has a 3" brim. With going custom you can get your choice of ribbon, brim width, felt colour, everything. The best thing is it will fit you perfectly right out the box.



Keep in mind there are a lot of custom hat makes out there right now so you have lots of options. Northwest hats has a great Facebook page showing off lots of their work as well. If you choose rabbit felt, it will usually be under $300 price tang. Just an option. Hope that helps some
Johnny
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,178
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
Raw edge brims can be reshaped by the owner over a steaming tea kettle. As mentioned above, a Fed IV, for example, is a 'city' hat with a comparatively large brim and crown, although not as big as a western.

Every aspect of my Feds are shapeable using water or steam. This is true of other hats, as well.

Eventually, most hat wearers figure out their ideal brim and crown sizes, and that makes it easier to purchase hats sans a personal fitting, as is the case now with interweb shopping.
 

synbios

New in Town
Messages
5
Hi all, new to posting but I've watched these forums for a long time! :)

I do however have a question and hope your knowledge on Fedoras may assist.

I quite like the look of a Hat I found online, https://www.swaineadeneybrigg.com/products/the-papworth-poet I have my reservations about buying online as I don't actually get to feel or try on the product and see how it looks. I'll try to keep this brief as possible so you don't get bored halfway through!

I had a hat try on session this weekend and found 57mm in the max brim width which seems to look good on me! (I usually buy smaller Trilbys)

The hat in question is actually 63mm Brim, I'm only about 5ft 8 in height and notice the Crown is 140mm...seems kinda big! So if I did a bespoke order I may be able to change those dimensions...

Do you think this hat would still maintain its shape and style if I asked for a 120mm Crown and a 57mm brim? Do you believe a 120mm Crown is too small? Do you think the price is worth the product?

I've searched a lot online and if you can recommend a similar product for cheaper I'm down to look at recs! :) Appreciate anyone who can assist... I know the Fed IV looks pretty nice too, but the brim and crown may be too high for me!

Thanks all,

Lee
 

johnnycanuck

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,008
Location
Alberta
Hi all, new to posting but I've watched these forums for a long time! :)

I do however have a question and hope your knowledge on Fedoras may assist.

I quite like the look of a Hat I found online, https://www.swaineadeneybrigg.com/products/the-papworth-poet I have my reservations about buying online as I don't actually get to feel or try on the product and see how it looks. I'll try to keep this brief as possible so you don't get bored halfway through!

I had a hat try on session this weekend and found 57mm in the max brim width which seems to look good on me! (I usually buy smaller Trilbys)

The hat in question is actually 63mm Brim, I'm only about 5ft 8 in height and notice the Crown is 140mm...seems kinda big! So if I did a bespoke order I may be able to change those dimensions...

Do you think this hat would still maintain its shape and style if I asked for a 120mm Crown and a 57mm brim? Do you believe a 120mm Crown is too small? Do you think the price is worth the product?

I've searched a lot online and if you can recommend a similar product for cheaper I'm down to look at recs! :) Appreciate anyone who can assist... I know the Fed IV looks pretty nice too, but the brim and crown may be too high for me!

Thanks all,

Lee

Welcome to the lounge.
Great looking hat. The first thing I will say is the crown height stated is open crown. So before the bash gets put into it. 140MM is very middle ground for open crown height. I would leave it. brim being 63MM is the minimum most people here would consider a fedora. Any shorter it would be a trilby. Overall its got great proportions.

The proportions are basically the same as the Classic Stetson whippet. Most here consider the Whippet to be an ideal classic hat. Do a google search and you can see for yourself. Another style you may want to look up that has a smaller brim is the Stetson Playboy.

As for this one you have chosen.... I know Herbert Johnson has started making hats by hand again so they are much better quality than they were a few years ago. My only hesitation is the price point. 410 UK is about 570 US for a rabbit fir hat. You can get a 100% beaver felt hat made by any custom hatter for that price. Art Fawcett, Nortwest hats, Penman, Alley kat hat co, Blacksheep hatworks. Made completely to order.

If I were you i would nail down what you want. Brim width? Brim binding? Ribbon width? Colour? Heck even if you choose a 1950's whippet or Playboy colone. Contact one of the custom hat makers to make it to your head size ans shape.

It may seem intimidating. But going custom is a decision you will not regret.

Johnny
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,178
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
I had a hat try on session this weekend and found 57mm in the max brim width which seems to look good on me! (I usually buy smaller Trilbys)

Maybe it's just me, but I am having trouble with the term 'brim width.'

57mm sounds like a head size, not a brim width. To me, brim width is the measurement we commonly use to describe how far the brim sticks out from the base of the crown, such as a 2 1/2 inch brim.

By brim width, do you mean 'hat size,' as in, measurement around your head?
 

synbios

New in Town
Messages
5
Welcome to the lounge.
Great looking hat. The first thing I will say is the crown height stated is open crown. So before the bash gets put into it. 140MM is very middle ground for open crown height. I would leave it. brim being 63MM is the minimum most people here would consider a fedora. Any shorter it would be a trilby. Overall its got great proportions.

The proportions are basically the same as the Classic Stetson whippet. Most here consider the Whippet to be an ideal classic hat. Do a google search and you can see for yourself. Another style you may want to look up that has a smaller brim is the Stetson Playboy.

As for this one you have chosen.... I know Herbert Johnson has started making hats by hand again so they are much better quality than they were a few years ago. My only hesitation is the price point. 410 UK is about 570 US for a rabbit fir hat. You can get a 100% beaver felt hat made by any custom hatter for that price. Art Fawcett, Nortwest hats, Penman, Alley kat hat co, Blacksheep hatworks. Made completely to order.

If I were you i would nail down what you want. Brim width? Brim binding? Ribbon width? Colour? Heck even if you choose a 1950's whippet or Playboy colone. Contact one of the custom hat makers to make it to your head size ans shape.

It may seem intimidating. But going custom is a decision you will not regret.

Johnny
Johnny thanks for the info, I looked at the Playboy you suggested and it deffo fits the bill. I also like the Bates Burlington Trilby Bitter Brown.

My question for you Johnny would be how high do you think the Crown would be if it had the bash depicted on their site? you think it would knock it down to about 110mm? more or less?

Lee
 

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