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[jlee562]

No, I have not called them yet. I am still hoping to find someone closer. San Diego is about 1 to 1-1/2 hr drive for me. The prices on their website seem to be about half of those of others. But, based on "you get what you pay for", I am a bit wary. But, if I can't find anybody else by next week, I might give them a try.

Gunner Foxx is in LA proper, no personal experience.

http://www.gunnerfoxx.com/services/

 

[boze]

I've read over the size reducer threads and I think I'm gonna try those bead mats someone recommended.. cut a strip for each side. Anybody have a better option I should pursue instead?

 

[Bill Hughes]

I've read over the size reducer threads and I think I'm gonna try those bead mats someone recommended.. cut a strip for each side. Anybody have a better option I should pursue instead?

Haven’t tried what you are talking about. I use felt strips.

 

[splintercellsz]

I've read over the size reducer threads and I think I'm gonna try those bead mats someone recommended.. cut a strip for each side. Anybody have a better option I should pursue instead?

I just fold a few tp squares over until it fits. it works, and is readily available

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[FedOregon]

I have a hat somebody attached the fuzzy side of those velcro strips with the pull off paper on the back that exposes adhesive. It works pretty well, but is a pretty permanent solution.

 

[Zombie_61]

I have a hat somebody attached the fuzzy side of those velcro strips with the pull off paper on the back that exposes adhesive. It works pretty well, but is a pretty permanent solution.

Only if you peel off that paper and expose the adhesive. If you leave the paper on and slip it behind the sweatband it'll get the job done just as well, and you can adjust it if you need to.

 

[RJR]

Only if you peel off that paper and expose the adhesive. If you leave the paper on and slip it behind the sweatband it'll get the job done just as well, and you can adjust it if you need to.

+1

 

[FedOregon]

Only if you peel off that paper and expose the adhesive. If you leave the paper on and slip it behind the sweatband it'll get the job done just as well, and you can adjust it if you need to.

Understood. But the previous owner of the hat didn't think of that. It's a beater, wear anywhere hat, but it does need a new sweat.

 

[Bill Hughes]

This is a Stetson Milan that is separating where the crown meets the brim. I thought that these were one continuous weave but this looks like the crown is glued to the brim.

Anybody have any experience with this?
Are the crowns glued to the brim?
If they are glued - any idea what I could/should use to re-glue?

 

[FedOregon]

This is a Stetson Milan that is separating where the crown meets the brim. I thought that these were one continuous weave but this looks like the crown is glued to the brim.

Anybody have any experience with this?
Are the crowns glued to the brim?
If they are glued - any idea what I could/should use to re-glue?

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I never knew they were glued, either. I have an older Leone Cappelli Milan that had some threads break and Mike Miller is sewing the spots back together for me.

 

[Zombie_61]

This is a Stetson Milan that is separating where the crown meets the brim. I thought that these were one continuous weave but this looks like the crown is glued to the brim.

Anybody have any experience with this?
Are the crowns glued to the brim?
If they are glued - any idea what I could/should use to re-glue?

View attachment 90212 View attachment 90213 View attachment 90214

There are probably better products available, but I'd try good old white glue. It's almost transparent once it dries/cures completely so it wouldn't be obvious, and it should permeate the fibers of the straw well enough to create a good bond.

 

[humanshoes]

This is a Stetson Milan that is separating where the crown meets the brim. I thought that these were one continuous weave but this looks like the crown is glued to the brim.

Anybody have any experience with this?
Are the crowns glued to the brim?
If they are glued - any idea what I could/should use to re-glue?

Hey Bill, The straw is not glued. It is a continuous braid that is sewn with a special overlapping chain stitch sewing machine. It looks like your stitches have come undone. You can simply sew that back together, making sure that the straw follows the same overlapping line.

 

[boze]

Have folks here replaced a sweat on their own? I saw one online for $20 and I'm thinking of trying it on an old antique store western with a cheap sweat that I cracked a while back.

 

[Bamaboots]

Have folks here replaced a sweat on their own? I saw one online for $20 and I'm thinking of trying it on an old antique store western with a cheap sweat that I cracked a while back.

Boze, I have done several as well as a few others here have. This is how I learned.
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?38010-Stitch-Awl-Tutorial-Sweatband-Installation

 

[RJR]

Have folks here replaced a sweat on their own? I saw one online for $20 and I'm thinking of trying it on an old antique store western with a cheap sweat that I cracked a while back.

Yes,its doable.Check for a thread here on the Lounge &/or You Tube for tips.

 

[boze]

Yes,its doable.Check for a thread here on the Lounge &/or You Tube for tips.

Thanks! Okay, I read through the whole thread linked above and get the gist of the awl approach. I'd love to find a tutorial on YouTube but didn't find one with any search terms I came up with.

Guess I need to put together a shopping list too since not all awls have swappable needles or the spool built in.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[blueAZNmonkey]

Thanks! Okay, I read through the whole thread linked above and get the gist of the awl approach. I'd love to find a tutorial on YouTube but didn't find one with any search terms I came up with.

Guess I need to put together a shopping list too since not all awls have swappable needles or the spool built in.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

I've sewn about a dozen-plus sweats and I really don't like the awl approach (I'm not a fan of the inconsistent tension that tends to occur from stitch to stitch). A four dollar set of millinery needles and some good sewing thread is all you really need. I use a double back-stitch and it works great. Some might say that the end result doesn't look as professional as when an awl is employed, but since both the millinery needle and the awl are done by hand, neither looks as good as a machined stitch, and both really just depend on your own ability to keep an even space and a straight line.

 

[blueAZNmonkey]

Also, I highly recommend @bond 's sweat bands. I've bought several from him -- in fact, one is in the mail as we speak. He has an Etsy shop named FineVintageFedoras. The leather is very nice. And he'll customize the size for you.

 

[andrew_AU]

"Survival Bias" is an interesting theory on why it is hard for us to find larger size vintage hats

http://bit.ly/2lcoIkE

 

[Redfokker]

Interesting website, bookmarked it. Looking for the perfect circa 1860 hat for living history at our local historical society events.