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Who me?

Familiar Face
Messages
68
Hello,
Can someone explain the difference between a Royal Deluxe Stetson, and a Royal Stetson Deluxe?
When did the name change?

Thanks,
Matt
 

Who me?

Familiar Face
Messages
68
What causes the sunken in crown around the headband? Sweatband shrinkage? I’ve seen this on a couple of hats.

IMG_4276.jpeg
 

Onomea

New in Town
Messages
26
Location
Portland, Oregon
To increase the size slightly of a beaver felt fedora without a reed, does a professional steam it, set it on a block, and then allow it to dry over time?

Years ago I bought a Borsalino from a shop in Columbus, Ohio. The hat was slightly tight so the sales person put it into a machine - with steam, I think — stretched it, and said, “Here ya go!,” handing it to me to wear. It was initially a good fit, but if I recall correctly it soon shrank back to the slightly too tight fit.

Later forgot the hat in a taxi in Tokyo after a late night out and never recovered it. But I have been thinking about this as I have a beaver felt fedora that is still fine in all respects but just a tad tight, I feel.

I have a good hat jack, as hat jacks go. Hardwood, maple, I think, made as I recall by a Michigan state trooper for his trooper hat, initially, then sold more widely. But I have not had much luck with it.

Perhaps because I did not thoroughly steam the hat prior to employing it?

View attachment 809746

Would appreciate beung educated on this.

No responses so did a bit more research on it. Mostly commonsensical or as expected:

Choose an appropriate steam source. I have a steam machine with various nozzles that I use for cleaning the car, which I experimented with, but it puts out way too much steam at too high a volume. I also hve an iron, of course, but decided to use this Japanese tea pot as it seemed to me by varying the flame under it I could likely control the steam to an extent.

Turn the sweatband inside out. Be sure the sweatband leather is still supple. (Use appropriate conditioner first if not)

Apply steam to the inside of the hatband and to the lower part of the internl crown where the sweatband covers fhe felt. (This selective application, I think,is pretty much impossible. - steam rising and all, the interior crown is gonna get steamed.)

After rotating evenly into steam source and not overdoing any spots, 30 secs to a minute, flip the swearband back down, insert hatjack, expand carefully so as not to overstrain the felt, and then let sit for 24 ~ 48 hours.

IMG_1647.jpeg


IMG_1649.jpeg


Using the lamp to rest the hat and hatjack during the day and to get some ventilation into the crown. Will remove at nightfall before turnimg lamp on as artificial heat is a no-no when drying and setting.

IMG_1648.jpeg


I am looking for just a smidge of increased room. I find my new Penman so comfortable that I am finding my older Optimos, which I purchased remotely (and they are now ~20 years old so may have shrunk) a bit too snug. (John, by the way, finds the whole idea of standard hat sizes for custom hats to be incongruous. A custom hat should be, rather than any standard size, unique to the individual customer.)

If I still find it a tad tight, I will repeat the process.

ETA: After about an hour, noticed a dimple at the front of the crown. Removed the jack, smoothed out the dimple, checked the hat on my head, and reinserted jack more deeply with a bit less tension, basically hoping to keep the size it has now assumed as it sets.
 
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Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
No responses so did a bit more research on it. Mostly commonsensicl or as expected:

Choose an appropriate steam source. I have a steam machine with various nozzles that I use for cleaning the car, which I experimented with, but it puts out way too much steam at too high a volume. I also hve an iron, of course, but decided to use this Japanese tea pot as it seemed to me by varying the flame under it I could likely control the steam to an extent.

Turn the sweatband inside out. Be sure the sweatband leather is still supple. (Use appropriate conditioner first if not)

Apply steam to the inside of the hatband and to the lower part of the internl crown where the sweatband covers fhe felt. (This selective application, I think,is pretty much impossible. - steam rising and all, the interior crown is gonna get steamed.)

After rotating evenly into steam source and not overdoing any spots, 30 secs to a minute, flip the swearband back down, insert hatjack, expand carefully so as not to overstrain the felt, and then let sit for 24 ~ 48 hours.

View attachment 816595

View attachment 816589

Using the lamp to rest the hat and hatjack during the day and to get some ventilation into the crown. Will remove at nightfall before turnimg lamp on as artificial heat is a no-no when drying and setting.

View attachment 816593

I am looking for just a smidge of increased room. I find my new Penman so comfortable that I am finding my older Optimos, which I purchased remotely (and they are now ~20 years old so may have shrunk) a bit too snug. (John, by the way, finds the whole idea of standard hat sizes for custom hats to be incongruous. A custom hat should be, rather than any standard size, unique to the individual customer.)

If I still find it a tad tight, I will repeatbthe process.
Let me know how it goes. :) I have a couple that I can stretch a bit to get them where I need them to be, but I find in most cases it has to be done repeatedly.

I didn’t speak up to answer because I don’t have enough experience to be an authority on the subject. Having said that, I have finally come around to accepting that for me, mostly, I’m better off finding hats that fit than trying to make them fit if they don’t.

I personally don’t care to stretch them or pad them out either one.
 

Onomea

New in Town
Messages
26
Location
Portland, Oregon
Let me know how it goes. :) I have a couple that I can stretch a bit to get them where I need them to be, but I find in most cases it has to be done repeatedly.
When you attempt to stretch them, I assume using steam, do you let them set for a couple of days? Per my first post above, if they are stretched but not allowed to set while the stretch is maintained, they will definitely shrink back quickly.

Another thing to watch when stretching is distortion of other parts of the hat. E.g., see my ETA (edited to add) above where I noticed a dimple in the forefront of the crown that I needed to rectify. Brim distortion when stretching a hat is a thing to watch out for, too.

I think some people simply accept that various hats tend to fit them differently, riding higher or lower, tighter or looser, depending on the hat. But, when you find a hat that you feel fits just perfectly — maybe I should say when I find a hat that I feel fits just perfectly — resting lightly on the head with a bit of breathability, the desire to repeat that experience is pretty damn strong.

… I tend to be too fussy, I think. I was remarking to my wife last night that I recall from a cowboy show when I was a kid a scene wherein the cowboy is extremely upset that someone has stolen his hat because “I have been training that hat for months to fit just right!”
 
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Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
When you attempt to stretch them, I assume using steam, do you let them set for a couple of days? Per my first post above, if they are stretched but not allowed to set while the stretch is maintained, they will definitely shrink back quickly.

Another thing to watch when stretching is distortion of other parts of the hat. E.g., see my ETA (edited to add) above where I noticed a dimple in the forefront of the crown that I needed to rectify. Brim distortion when stretching a hat is a thing to watch out for, too.

I think some people simply accept that various hats tend to fit them differently, riding higher or lower, tighter or looser, depending on tne hat. But, when you find a hat that you feel fits just perfectly — maybe I should say when I find a hat that I feel fits just perfectly — resting lightly on the head with a bit of breathability, the desire to repeat that experience is pretty damn strong.

… I tend to be too fussy, I think. I was remarking to my wife last night that I recall from a cowboy show when I was a kid a scene wherein the cowboy is extremely upset that someone has stolen his hat because “I have been training that hat for months to fit just right!”
Hey - yes, usting steam, crank them a tiny bit at a time, let them sit for a couple days to "set up". I have also observed the other things you mention; various areas being distorted potentially, as a result of the stretching, with the severity increasing the more you stretch them, of course.

Nah, I don't think you are too fussy - I'm the same way. Moreso with my Straw hats for some reason. I want it sit exactly where I put it and I don't want to have to nudge it to keep it off my right ear, and I don't want to feel like my head is in a vise either -can be a little tricky to get dialed in. :)
 

Onomea

New in Town
Messages
26
Location
Portland, Oregon
Coupla days later now, The Optomo stretched a tad, and does feel comfortable, after a 48 hour set.

But, the question is what happens after I try wearing it for a bit, and the heat and moisture I generate hit the leather sweatband…

Will try to remember and come back to report.

Meanwhile, here in the PNC, waiting for the weather to cool a bit so that I can wear my lovely new, and reblocked to my liking, Penman. It is a gorgeous hat, and I am very pleased with it.
 

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