I might be wrong but I think it was a Fine creek?
It's happened with both.
The Freewheelers one was on here, the sleeve ripped off at the shoulder.
The FCL Robert ripped open at the underarm gusset on first wear, on Styleforum.
FCL (like Simmons Bilt with the mis-sized jackets) refused to take any responsibility for the faulty construction, even though it was bought through an authorized dealer in the US, and offered only to do a repair at the shop's expense. (The owner thought that was unfair to the shop so he didn't send it to FCL at shop's expense since they should have taken responsibility.)