As seen on "The Sartorialist"

[thunderw21]

http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/

Modern suit made of vintage 40's fabric.

One of the comments.

Fun......nice enough. I'm sure there is some great back story in regards to the fabric. The guy looks cool. I'm not feeling the clothes, mainly the tailoring. Lumpy round shoulders, sleeve heads are not clean, I would have gone 5 button on vest with lower gorge. Shirt & tie combo, eh? He looks right out of "classic style" mag., which is good, almost. It hovers but doesn't bite. All in fun, right ? A Flusser or Duncan Q. would tidy it up for me.

Thoughts? Comments? I wonder what the armholes are like and where he had it made.

 

[Jovan]

Waistcoat seems a tad long. Otherwise I think it looks fine. What we need is a picture of him with the jacket closed, arms raised, etc. to judge how "vintage accurate" it is.

 

[Fletch]

"Sleeve heads are not clean": A discreet pucker used to be considered quite appropriate. This is a subtlety now largely lost. The commenter basically wants the sleeve top to look modern.

"I would have gone 5 button on vest with a lower gorge": Again he wants to see what is normal today. He has an eye for detail, but it's used to conservative, latter day styles, which makes period details look incorrect. This tells me he may patronize "traditional" custom tailors.

"All in fun, right?": The bottom line: Unless the suit is updated, he can only accept it as a costume.

Notice, tho, that most of the comments are positive, quite a few along the lines of "I wish more men dressed this way."

My 2¢: Vest could be a little shorter, or just curve up more sharply from the points. His collar looks uncomfortable, as if he can't close it - be nice to see a graceful long-point roll over the vest.

Puzzler: One person said the reason DB coats classically have boutonniere holes in both lapels is because of the vest. Where are they getting THAT idea? SB vested suits never have holes in both lapels.

 

[thunderw21]

Waistcoat seems a tad long. Otherwise I think it looks fine. What we need is a picture of him with the jacket closed, arms raised, etc. to judge how "vintage accurate" it is.

Agreed. I wish he'd closed the jacket so we could see the cut!
I find the fabric used to be quite beautiful, whatever the cut of the suit.

"All in fun, right?": The bottom line: Unless the suit is updated, he can only accept it as a costume.

And most people would unfortunately agree with that sentiment.

While the comment I posted was not one of the most positive, I mainly posted it because of the reference to Classic Style Magazine.

 

[cookie]

http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/



One of the comments.


Thoughts? Comments? I wonder what the armholes are like and where he had it made.

He says the sleeve heads are not 'clean' - probably becasue the guy had them deliberately made Neapolitan-style 'roped' or 'spalla camicia....IMHO[huh]

 

[Jovan]

This reminds me somewhat of when Mr. Rover was on there... and most of the positive comments were from women. Makes you think.

 

[resortes805]

What a waste of decent fabric....judging by the slacks alone, the cut is entirely off.

 

[Fletch]

Perhaps it was second-hand (or third-hand considering the vintage goods).
Or could the gentleman have, uh, grown a bit?

 

[Jovan]

What a waste of decent fabric....judging by the slacks alone, the cut is entirely off.

Just because the cut isn't exactly what we may have gotten doesn't make it a waste of fabric. [huh]

 

[CharlestonBows]

I think it's nice enough. I like the waistcoat right where it is. It's a comfortable, nicely finished garment that actually looks like he *gasp* wears it.

If I could change just one thing, it'd be the sleeve length. But, as with most critiques of the cut in this case, you really can't tell by the way he's standing.

[huh]


-- CB

 

[thunderw21]

I wonder where he got the fabric. Super-secret untouched underground fabric bunker?

 

[Matt Deckard]

It's hard to tell much regarding fit or cut with the photo being him leaning against a wall with his hands in his pockets... You can see the vest fine yet talking in depth about the jacket and trouser is speculation. I give the rumpled shoulder to the wall.

I'm sure the vest is long to accommodate a modern low waisted trouser.

 

[mike]

I wonder where he got the fabric. Super-secret untouched underground fabric bunker?

I wondering the same thing! :eusa_doh:

 

[reetpleat]

I think the fabric is nice, an d nothing against the suit, but there is too much of it. In other words, the stripes are too voerwhelming with the vest so high. It looks like a blue striped jumpsuit.

That nad the pants are too low for the pleats to hang well. I think the fabric is ammaterial. Weight can only matter when the suit is allowed to drape. Without seeing the jacket fully, and without the pants being cut t o hang nicely, the material doesn't matter much.

Not a bad suit overall, but not my cup of tea as it is a modern cut. I like vintage cuts. Modern cuts in vintage or modern fabrics don't do it for me.

Not so bad, just not my taste.

 

[BellyTank]

Puzzler: One person said the reason DB coats classically have boutonniere holes in both lapels is because of the vest. Where are they getting THAT idea? SB vested suits never have holes in both lapels.

A double breasted jacket, is by nature and tradition, even if not totally functionally, close-able to the left, and the right- so it would make sense to have "boutonnières" on both lapels. Function, symmetry, preference...
No?

The whole ensemble looks a little awkward on him.

B
T

 

[Feraud]

I wonder where he got the fabric. Super-secret untouched underground fabric bunker?

This is a job for Snopes!

 

[Matt Deckard]

The whole ensemble looks a little awkward on him.

B
T

I have to say I agree

 

[Jovan]

Well, I don't know. Change the tie and collar, and we might have a really good outfit.

 

[dman]

I have to say: there don't seem to be many occasions when unbuttoning a double breasted suit looks good. Keep em closed boys.

 

[Tomasso]

Puzzle solved: Poorly structured sentence

Puzzler: One person said the reason DB coats classically have boutonniere holes in both lapels is because of the vest. Where are they getting THAT idea? SB vested suits never have holes in both lapels.

This is what the person wrote:"A double breasted suit with a vest (that's why there's a button hole on each peak lapel). Don't see that often."


This is what he meant to write: "A double breasted suit (that's why there's a button hole on each peak lapel) with a vest. Don't see that often."

I happen to know the author, TinTin, from another forum and he knows his stuff, sartorially speaking.