Armhole question.

[Mateo]

Hey guys!

I have been reading about the high armhole thing on here a bit and I was wondering if there is any standard addition that is used to your armhole measurement?
I am getting a suit made and thought that if I can specify the circumference on the armhole of the finished jacket that I have greater chance in getting a good fit.

Best, M

 

[thunderw21]

Howdy,
The first post at the below link will show you how armholes are measured.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=1305

Cheers,
Billy

 

[Mateo]

Ah thanks Billy.

I've seen that thread but I could not find info about how much the tailor adds to your physical measurement? Might have missed?

Best, M.

 

[MK]

.

The Spring issue of Classic Style has an article on armholes.

Enjoy!

 

[Mateo]

Oh, that is great MK!

I loved the first issue.

Best, M.

 

[Jovan]

Your personal comfort is what it all comes down to. I like around a 20" circumference or a bit smaller. Indy has his as small as 16"! Taking into account, however, that I think I have a few inches on him in height.

All in all, I wouldn't say there's always a precise science to it. It's like the fit in the chest of a suit jacket... what feels fitted to some will feel loose to others with almost the same body measurements.

 

[iammatt]

While there certainly is a tendency for overly large armholes these days, the trend on this site tends to be for overly small ones. Like everything else, the most important thing is balance.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

the trend on this site tends to be for overly small ones.

I've never heard anyone argue for armholes that are overly small. In fact, the argument always includes a statement to the fact that the armholes should be small enough to function without constricting.

bk

 

[Matt Deckard]

While there certainly is a tendency for overly large armholes these days, the trend on this site tends to be for overly small ones. Like everything else, the most important thing is balance.

It's not really all about the size of the armhole as much as it is about the shape. If you check out the article in the Classic Style you'll read about the shape and the measurements that were once commonly used.
I spoke to a tailor on Savile Row earlier this year and he was most informative when it came to the changes in cuts and fits throughout history. I hope some of what I learned comes though in the article.

 

[iammatt]

It's not really all about the size of the armhole as much as it is about the shape. If you check out the article in the Classic Style you'll read about the shape and the measurements that were once commonly used.
I spoke to a tailor on Savile Row earlier this year and he was most informative when it came to the changes in cuts and fits throughout history. I hope some of what I learned comes though in the article.

I hear what you are saying. One thing that you have to keep in mind is that the shape of an armhole from Savile Row is a bit triangular, or at least "un-round" while tailors in Italy will use a rounder armhole without tape around it creating a more fluid and adaptable scye. Here is a picture of a jacket that I recently had made and while the armhole is quite high, there is no "snug" feeling like you would find from a similar sized armhole made in a more British manner.

Also to be taken into account is the garment itself and the material. A sportcoat should have slightly larger armholes if you are going to wear a sweater at times. IMO, a linen jacket looks ridiculous with an armscye that is too high as it takes away from the optimal look of the garment. Now I am not talking big differences, just the cutting on the outside rather than inside of a chalkmark, but the difference needs to be there. Any comments on the picture are more than welcome.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Is the jacket meant to have the drape in the chest? I'm curious, because the shoulders are set in at a very steep angle, almost 45 degrees to the body.

 

[iammatt]

Is the jacket meant to have the drape in the chest? I'm curious, because the shoulders are set in at a very steep angle, almost 45 degrees to the body.

yes

 

[Mr. Rover]

Who created the suit, if I may ask?

 

[herringbonekid]

the front darts running right through the pocket to the bottom edge are pretty unusual.

 

[iammatt]

the front darts running right through the pocket to the bottom edge are pretty unusual.

Yes, it is never seen on OTR suits and very rarely on bespoke. It helps slim the skirt of the suit which can look a little hippy if you have a good waist suppression and then a normal length dart. The underarm seam, on the other hand, stops at the pocket rather than continuing.

 

[Marty M.]

Window"Pain".

I hear what you are saying. One thing that you have to keep in mind is that the shape of an armhole from Savile Row is a bit triangular, or at least "un-round" while tailors in Italy will use a rounder armhole without tape around it creating a more fluid and adaptable scye. Here is a picture of a jacket that I recently had made and while the armhole is quite high, there is no "snug" feeling like you would find from a similar sized armhole made in a more British manner.

Also to be taken into account is the garment itself and the material. A sportcoat should have slightly larger armholes if you are going to wear a sweater at times. IMO, a linen jacket looks ridiculous with an armscye that is too high as it takes away from the optimal look of the garment. Now I am not talking big differences, just the cutting on the outside rather than inside of a chalkmark, but the difference needs to be there. Any comments on the picture are more than welcome.

Beautiful suit. Your tailor did a nice job matching the panes. i also like the long dart. You look right handed. Have you ever had to pad your right shoulder? It looks 1/2" lower then your left.
Marty

 

[Mateo]

Just got the new issue! Yay!

Excellent article Matt!

Best, M.