Are notch lapel dinner jackets "correct"?

[Tommy]

if by dinner jacket, the thread means tuxedo, then regardless of how they might visually appeal to an individual, notched lapel dinner jackets are technically not correct according to Alan Flusser in Clothes and the Man book,

"There are four proper styles for the tuxedo: the single- or double breasted with a peaked lapel with grosgrain facing on the lapel, or the single- or double breasted shawl collar with either satin or grosgrain on the lapel facings. These are the only proper choices."

"Yet American manufacturers, in order to save on costs and increase profits, have taken to producing a notched lapel - the same style manufactured for their normal daytime suits - and facing them in satin. This unfortunate trend began in the sixties, when men were experimenting with alternative styles of dress. Once manufacturers realized it was less costly to produce this model, they persisted."

It's evident the notched lapel dinner jacket was surfacing prior to the 60's, and of course, one could question Flusser's opinion, but he is one well grounded in men's classic style. My take on the thread question is - if you are someone starting out with your first tux purchase, you start with one of the unquestionable classic four styles if possible. Then go from there. If notched lapel is what you like, go for it, but it is less elegant than peaked lapel. And FDR or other dignitaries and famous people wearing notched dinner jackets doesn't make it legit IMHO.

 

[Dinerman]

Here's a '20s example of a notch lapel dinner jacket. Very jazz-suit-esque in cut.

A super super lousy picture, over work clothes no less over last summer, to show that it's not frock length, or anything like that. Much shorter than a standard modern suit jacket.

 

[Charlie Huang]

It is also beacuse it has a high button stance.

I noticed that Sir Christopher Lee wore a NL DJ last night at the BAFTAs and I think he out dressed everyone (though a good shawl or peak lapel would be looked more amazing IMHO).

 

[Feraud]

Call me curious, do you have the pants for this jacket? If so, are there any interesting details?

Here's a '20s example of a notch lapel dinner jacket. Very jazz-suit-esque in cut.

 

[Dinerman]

Unfortunately, no- it didn't come with pants. Looks like someone wore this a fair bit. Lots of old-looking repairs to it.

 

[Tomasso]

and of course, one could question Flusser's opinion,

True........

I always spit up a little bit when I hear neophytes quote Flusser as scripture; He used to sell me socks at Saks.....

And FDR or other dignitaries and famous people wearing notched dinner jackets doesn't make it legit IMHO.

Exactly my point. The correctness of the NLDJ is only a matter of opinion with no valid historical info to back it up. The photos were used to show that they were in fact worn (and bespoken) by the elite and that they were not looked upon as a faux pas. It is only now when they are in the majority that some sartorial arbiters are trying to rewrite history in order to separate and elevate their personal preferences over those of the hoi polloi.

 

[Tommy]

True........

I always spit up a little bit when I hear neophytes quote Flusser as scripture; He used to sell me socks at Saks.....



Exactly my point. The correctness of the NLDJ is only a matter of opinion with no valid historical info to back it up. The photos were used to show that they were in fact worn (and bespoken) by the elite and that they were not looked upon as a faux pas. It is only now when they are in the majority that some sartorial arbiters are trying to rewrite history in order to separate and elevate their personal preferences over those of the hoi polloi.

Tomasso, neophyte to actively posting on this forum... that is true. I've come from a background, probably similar to many of the members, where the sartorial rules were learned on your own, through your own study and self awareness, many years I might add before this forum was founded.

I have arrived at a place where guidelines help the decision making process. But I use them only as guidelines, I thought I was pretty clear on that; "notched lapel dinner jackets correct" ultimately devolves to personal preference precisely because of the nature of men's formal dress history. Notch lapel is ok. But to my eyes NLDJ is less elegant. But again, it's just an opinion dude.

 

[Fifty150]

You can either accept what others consider to be "the rules" of formal wear, or follow your own path. Fashion changes. Even with formal wear. Some like the shawl collar. Do you go with one button, three buttons, or double breasted? Waistcoat or cummerbund? I prefer to add my own sartorial touches. It gives me a sense of panache. When in doubt, wear powder blue.

 

[AntonAAK]

Three buttons?

 

[Fifty150]

I've been wearing the J. Peterman Velvet Squires Coat in lieu of a dinner jacket.

 

[Edward]

This little guy works the alternative look.